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Made to hold 10-inch or 12-inch clay pots
Looking to dress up your deck, patio or front porch with some greenery, but don’t want to hire a landscape designer or pay the hefty retail prices stores want for wooden planters?
This handsome redwood planter (or even a few of them) is just what you’ve been wanting. PLUS — Since your plants will be growing in your choice of 10-inch or 12-inch clay pots, suspended from the top of the planter, (you can alter the dimensions to hold much larger pots, if you like), you can remove your plants and move the lightweight planters from location to location without soiling your deck . . . or change the plants you have on display without having to re-pot them.
Step 1: Buy your pots. It’s best to purchase the pots you’re planing to use before you start work. Measure the height and outside diameter of the pot’s lip, at the top. You’ll be using these dimensions frequently once you get started on construction. We recommend that you purchase natural, un-glazed terra cotta pots, since they allow the roots of your plants to “breathe” efficiently.
At the lumberyard: The dimensions included in this plan are for a 10-inch or 12-inch pot, but you can make a planter to hold any size pot you like. You’ll just have to adjust your other planter dimensions accordingly. For our planter, you’ll need two 8-foot 2 x 4’s, one 4-foot 1 x 10 and four 8-foot 1 x 4’s (for a 10-inch pot). If you’re planning to use a 12-inch pot, you’ll need four 8-foot 1 x 6’s instead of 1 x 4’s. We made our planter out of redwood. But Western Red Cedar or Cypress are a couple of other great choices, since they’re also well suited to outdoor use. You’ll also need to buy the hardware listed in the Bill of Materials.
Step 2: Making top and bottom frames. Start by crosscutting the 2 x 4’s into eight pieces for the top frame (X) and the bottom frame (Y). The lengths of the four “B” boards (two for the top frame X and two for the bottom frame Y — See Frame Sides Detail) are determined by adding 3-1/2-inches to the outside diameter of the pot’s mouth). The lengths of the four “A” boards (two for the top frame X and two for the bottom frame Y — See Frame Sides Detail) are determined by adding 1-1/2-inches to the outside diameter of the pot’s mouth.
Next, use a router or table saw to cut the rabbets into the ends of the (A & B) pieces as shown by the Corner Detail drawing. The depths of your cuts should be equal to your board’s actual thickness minus 1-inch (See Frame Sides Detail).
Step 3: Cutting the sides, top support and cover. If you’re making a planter for a 10-inch pot, rip your 1 x 4’s (side pieces – C) to a width of 3-5/16-inches. If you’re using a 12” pot, rip your 1 x 6’s (side pieces – C) to a width of 3-3/4”. These ripped boards will be used to make the planter sides (C) and pot support (D).
Helpful Items
To make the sides (C), crosscut your ripped boards into 16 identical pieces that are equal to the overall height of your pot plus 4-3/4-inches. For the pot support (D), cut two pieces that are equal to the outside diameter of the pot’s mouth plus 3-1/2-inches.
To make the pot-holder top, cross-cut two 1 x 10 pieces to a length that’s equal to the outside diameter of your pot’s mouth plus 3-1/2-inches. Now, find the centerpoint of each piece at its very edge (See Top Cut-Out Detail). This centerpoint will mark the outer edge of your semi-circle. To calculate the radius of the semi-circle you’ll be cutting, subtract 1-inch from the outside diameter of your pot’s mouth and divide that figure by two. Draw a semi-circle of that radius on each of your two top pieces and use your bandsaw, scroll saw or sabre saw to cut out the centers of each board.
Once you’ve cut out the centers, cut off the two open edges of each board so its width is one-half its height (See Top Cut-Out Detail)
Step 4: Assembly. To assemble the top frame (X) and the bottom frame (Y), drill two pilot holes (above one another) at each of the corners where the “B” and “A” frame sides meet (See Corner Detail) and screw them together.
Next, drill two small nail pilot holes in each end of the two pot supports (D) and nail them in an approximate centered position to the “A” pieces of the bottom frame (Y), leaving a 1-inch gap between the boards.
Sand the rough edges of the side pieces (C) and cover (E). Drill four small nail pilot holes in each side piece (C). Position them with two holes 3” down from the top and two more holes 1-1/2-inches up from the bottom of each piece.
Nail the side pieces (C) onto the top frame (X) and bottom frame (Y) so that the bottom of each piece is 1” up from the bottom of the bottom frame (Y), and 1-1/4-inches above the top of the top frame (X). Space the sides (C) evenly, leaving a slight gap at each end, as well as even gaps between each piece. For the best fit, rasp or sand the cover pieces (E).
Ideally, your pot should be supported on its bottom and not by its lip. For that reason (and since pot dimensions will vary), you may have to lay small scrap blocks across the two pot supports (D) to raise your pot slightly in the planter so it is not supported by its lip.
Step 5: Fisnish the planter. Although all of the recommended woods are highly durable when used outdoors, you might wish to finish your planter(s) with a transparent, penetrating oil stain, formulated for exterior use.