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This great Patio Table solves the age-old off season storage problem, once and for all!

The simple act of storing your patio furniture away during the Winter, off-season months can easily turn a roomy garage or basement into a real “clutter-center”, leaving little room for your cars or other belongings. One answer to the problem is this clever Knock-Down-&-Store-Away Patio Table. Not only does it provide plenty of sturdy space for entertaining while in use, it also disassembles in a couple of minutes, then stores neatly away in a minimal amount of space


We built our example from top-grade 2×4’s and pine boards, then stained it to a rich, dark color. However, it could just as easily be made from Western Red Cedar or Redwood…which are attractive and remain unaffected by the weather…from teak, which is also impervious to the weather, yet quite costly….or from virtually any wood you like.


Our example is 42″ square when assembled. If your is a larger family and you require more space, just alter the dimensions to suit your needs.


LIST OF MATERIALS

(finished dimensions in inches)


Leg Sets (make two)

A

Foot (2)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 60

B

Leg Brace (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 25

C

Leg (4)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 26-1/2

D

Upper Brace (4)

3/4 x 2-1/2 x 49-5/8

E

Spacer (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 2-1/2

F

Post Holder (1)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 3-1/4

Top Assembly (make one)

G

Top Skirt (4)

3/4 x 5-1/4 x 42

H

Top Slat (4)

3/4 x 2-5/8 x 40-1/2

J

Long Cleat (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 37

K

Slat Brace (2)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 40-1/2

L

Corner Blocks (4)

3-1/4 x 3-1/4 x 9

Hardware


(4) 3/8″ – 16 x 4″ Hanger Bolts

(4) 3/8″ I.D. Flat Washers

(4) 3/8″ – 16 Hex Nuts (or Wing Nuts)

(152) #6 x 2″ Wood Screws

(20) #8 x 1-1/2″ Wood Screws

(16) #8 x 2″ Wood Screws

(24) #8 x 2-1/4″ Wood Screws


Sawing and Construction


Start by cutting all pieces to size, according to the Bill of Materials. Next, saw the 45-degree bevels on the ends of the Top Skirt (G), Feet (A) and Leg Braces (B). Use your Disc Sander to remove all saw marks from the ends of these pieces.


Set-up your Table Saw for Dadoing and adjust your Blades to make a 3/4″ wide cut. Saw the notches in the Feet (A) and Upper Braces (D).


Lay out and drill the 7/16″ holes in the tops of the Legs (C) according to the LEG SLOT LAYOUT drawing. These holes will form the bottoms of the slots that will slip over the corner hanger bolts during assembly. We’ll finish the slots later with the Bandsaw. Use a hole saw to drill the 1-1/2″ diameter post holes (to match the diameter of your umbrella post) in the center Top Slat (H) and the Post Holder (F).


Tilt your Drill Press Table to 45-degrees and mount your Rip Fence on the Table to form a V-Block drilling set-up (see the Drill Press chapter in your “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone” text). Be sure to use equal thickness scrap blocks to keep from drilling into the Table surface and the face of your Rip Fence during this process. Center the tip of your 1/4″ Brad Point Drill Bit over the “V” where your scrap blocks intersect. Drop your chunk of Corner Block stock (L) into this “V” and drill a 1/4″ through-hole diagonally, 2-1/4″ down from each end of your stock (see photo 4).



Helpful Items

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Bandsaw Fence Upgrade

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1/4 Inch Brad Point Premium Doweling Bit

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Set-up your Bandsaw and tilt the Table to 45-degrees. If you have an older Shopsmith Bandsaw, mount your Miter Gauge with a wooden Extension in the cross slot on the “downhill” side of the blade. You’ll use this set-up to saw your Corner Block stock in half diagonally. If you have a newer Shopsmith Bandsaw, use your Bandsaw Rip Fence for this operation. Cut each 9″ long triangular block into two 4-1/2″ long Corner Blocks (L).


Cut the 11″ long angled slip notches in the two Upper Brace Outer Legs (D), as shown in the drawing. Finish cutting the 7/16″ wide hanger bolt notches in the tops of the Legs (C).



Assembly and Finishing


NOTE: For maximum durability, use a waterproof (NOT water RESISTANT) glue such as resorcinol or one of the new polyurethane glues when assembling the components of the Table.



Drive the screw ends of the hanger bolts into the Corner Blocks (L). Glue and screw the Top Skirt (G) to the Corner Blocks (L) using 24 #6 x 2″ screws. Mount the Long Cleats (J) and Slat Braces (K) to the Top Skirts (G). Use three #8 x 2″ screws for each Cleat and one #8 x 2″ screw at each end of the two Slat Braces.



Screw and glue the Leg Braces (B) to the Legs (C) using five #8 x 1-1/2″ screws for each, then glue the umbrella Post Holder (F) to the center of the inner Foot (A). Turn the Top Assembly upside-down and temporarily secure the Legs (C) to the Corner Blocks (L) using Flat Washers and Hex Nuts (or Wing Nuts).



Position the Feet (A) upside-down on the Legs (C) and fasten them to the Legs using glue and two countersunk #8 x 2-1/4″ screws for each Leg. Screw the Upper Braces (D) to the Legs (C) using two #8 x 2-1/4″ screws at each end of each Brace.


Turn the Table over and screw the evenly-spaced Top Slats (H) to the assembled Top Frame, using eight #6 x 2″ screws per slat (DO NOT GLUE). Slide your umbrella post into the post holder hole. Mount the Spacers (E) next to the umbrella post between each pair of Upper Braces (D) using two #6 x 2″ screws for each of the four Spacers (DO NOT GLUE).


Sand and finish the Table using an exterior grade of stain.

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