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Here’s a large, unique designed feeder that’s a pleasure to look at — PLUS — it gives visiting lucky birds their choice of four seeds!
If you’re a lover of nature, you’d probably agree that the more species of birds you can get to visit a bird feeder in your yard, the happier you’ll be. If that’s the case, here’s a uniquely designed feeder that you can load with up to four different types of seeds to bring a variety of birds within easy sight. Just match the birds you choose to attract with the seeds they prefer to eat. We’ve even provided a brief table of seed types at the end of this article to help you make the right choices.
How to build it
Because it’s so attractive and should last outdoors indefinitely without any type of finish, we built our Gourmet feeder out of redwood. However, any durable, weatherproof wood such as Western red cedar or cypress would also be fine…though we would not recommend the use of pressure-treated lumber, due to its toxicity. The main body of our feeder is made from 3/4″ stock, while the windows (J) compartment dividers (K) and edging (M) are cut from 1/4″ plexiglass or similar see-through plastic material.
Start by cutting the four end pieces (A,B), deflectors (C), bottom (D) and the roof rafter (E) to length. Follow the pattern in the drawings and use your bandsaw or scroll saw to form the shapes on the ends (A,B). Next, rout the 1/4″ grooves in the end pieces (A) to accept the front and back windows (J). Drill the 1/2″ dia. x 3/8″ deep holes for the dowel perches (H) in the end pieces (A). Rout a 3/8″ deep x 3/8″ wide rabbet on the OUTSIDE TOP edges of the bottom end pieces (A) — and the INSIDE BOTTOM edges of the top end pieces (B). These rabbets help to create a weatherproof seal when the feeder is assembled. You’ll need to square the rabbets on the top end pieces (B) with a chisel.
Helpful Items
Tilt your saw table to 45 degrees and cut the beveled edges of the deflectors (C) to form the pyramid-shape that will keep the seed moving down into the feeder. Use some small brass or copper brads and weatherproof glue to assemble these two pieces together, then attach the assembly to the bottom using brads. Adjust your saw table to a 30 degree tilt and bevel the top edge of the roof rafter (E).
Using five #8 x 1-1/4″ brass, flathead wood screws on each end, attach the lower ends to the bottom and ends of the deflectors, as shown in the drawing (DON’T insert the perches, yet). Slip the front and back windows (J) into the grooves in the end pieces (A). Attach the upper ends (B) to the roof rafter (E) with flathead wood screws and weatherproof glue and set the assembly aside.
Tilt your saw table to 45 degrees and cut the beveled edges of the deflectors (C) to form the pyramid-shape that will keep the seed moving down into the feeder. Use some small brass or copper brads and weatherproof glue to assemble these two pieces together, then attach the assembly to the bottom using brads. Adjust your saw table to a 30 degree tilt and bevel the top edge of the roof rafter (E).
Using five #8 x 1-1/4″ brass, flathead wood screws on each end, attach the lower ends to the bottom and ends of the deflectors, as shown in the drawing (DON’T insert the perches, yet). Slip the front and back windows (J) into the grooves in the end pieces (A). Attach the upper ends (B) to the roof rafter (E) with flathead wood screws and weatherproof glue and set the assembly aside.
Align the feed dividers (L) with the compartment dividers and carefully drill your 1/8″ pilot holes through the 1/4″ tab at the tops of the feed dividers (L) and into the windows (J). Attach the tops of the dividers to the windows (J) using six of the same small screws. Position an edging piece (M) on each side of the feeder. Drill four evenly spaced pilot holes through the bottoms of each edging piece (M) for screwing these pieces to the edges of the wooden bottom (D). Be careful not to drill into your wood so your screw tips will get a better grip. Next, drill a pilot hole through the edging pieces (M) and into the edges of the feed dividers (L) where these pieces meet. Using 6 more 1/2″ x #4 brass roundhead screws, attach the edgings (M) to the feed dividers (L). Loosen the screws holding one of the lower ends (A) to the bottom (D), slip the perches into position and re-tighten.
The final step is to cut the 18 roof shingles (F). Tilt your table saw or bandsaw table to 7 degrees and carefully resaw the 2-1/8″ wide x 3/4″ thick pieces into the angles shingles as shown in the detail drawing. Overlap the shingles and fasten them to the upper ends (B) and roof rafter (E) with brass or copper brads. Tilt the table on your table saw to 30 degrees and cut the inside V on the edge of a wide board for the weather cap (G). Move your rip fence in toward the blade 1/2″ and cut another V. Tack the cap (G) into place and attach window sash locks to the ends (A,B) to hold the top of the feeder to the bottom. Mount your feeder to a post…or hang it from a branch with a chain or cable through a screw-eye or eye bolt that’s attached to the roof rafter (E).
