Eight side drawers and a generous sized lap drawer give you plenty of storage for all your important office supplies.
Have you ever considered building a major piece of furniture like this handsome roll top desk? It’s not really difficult – just a matter of making some basic saw cuts, fitting, drilling, dadoing, gluing…operations that are basically very simple. The secret is — TAKE YOUR TIME! Pay careful attention at every step along the way. “Measure twice and cut once.” If you follow these simple rules of furniture construction, you’ll be surprised at how smoothly the job will go, and how proud you’ll be of the results you achieve.
Since this is a rather difficult project, we’ve decided to present the plans and procedures for building it in two parts. First, we’ll tackle the pedestal desk base. Then, in the upcoming March/April edition of Hands-On, we’ll build the rolltop unit that goes with it.
Once the base is completed, you’ll have an extremely functional and beautiful piece of furniture. Then, when the rolltop section is finished and attached to the assembled desktop (no special joinery is required), you’ll have a true family heirloom that you’ll be proud to pass along to future generations.
*Front Frame Pieces (D) are exposed and should be made out of the same stock as the rest of the exterior. Back Frame Pieces (E) are NOT exposed and therefore may be made of secondary wood.
1: PLANNING
The most important aspect of building any piece of furniture is planning. Start by looking over the printed plans very carefully. Read all the how-to information. Review the List of Materials and the drawings.
While you’re looking over the plans, be sure to take some notes regarding special operations, tools you might be needing, assembly techniques and shop safety — “building” the project in your mind, step-by-step.
The original plans for this desk were purchased from one of the major furniture plan developers, then modified to our liking after clipping photos of some desks we liked from magazines and other sources. Some minor changes were made to suit our special needs. For example, we used 3/4″ lumber for the pedestal base pieces instead of the 1/2″ used in the printed plan…then added three drawers on the rolltop section.
We often use available project plans for certain projects, then modify their features and measurements to suit our special needs.
Helpful Items
8: ASSEMBLE THE DESK CASE
Start by cutting the back apron (K) to size and then cutting the contoured lower edge with your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw. Drill three dowel holes in each end of the back apron (K) and locate their positions on the pedestals. A set of dowel centers will make easy work of accurately transferring the hole locations from the ends of the back apron to the sides (B) of the pedestals. Once the hole locations are market, you can use your hand-held drill to bore the dowel holes in the sides (B)
Next, cut the center frame supports (N) to finished dimension and attach them to the pedestal sides using #8 x 1-1/4″ flathead wood screws. Attach the back apron with 3/8″ dowel pins but do not glue them! Then, fasten the center dust panel to the frame supports with #8 x 1-1/4″ flathead wood screws.
9: MAKE THE TOP (A) We used veneered plywood for our top because plywood is straight, easy to work with and stable. When cutting this and other large plywood parts to final dimension, it’s best to have someone assist you for added safety. If you don’t have this option, be sure to use Roller Support Stands or a MARK V Support Table to help you hold and guide your stock through the cuts safely and accurately.
Once you’ve squared the top, drill four dowel holes into the top edges of each of the four pedestal sides…then drill mating stopped holes into the underside of the top (A). Again, an inexpensive set of dowel centers will save a lot of time in matching-up these hole locations.
Apply the edge strips (R & S) to the top with glue and 5/8″ brads. A set of 3-way edge clamps will help you hold these edge strips in position until the glue sets-up.
Mount the top to the two pedestal sides with the dowels. If you choose not to use glue, you’ll be able to remove the top from the pedestals easily for moving, if necessary.
10: MAKE THE DRAWERS
Following the drawings and the list of materials as guides. Since drawers look and work best when they’re made to fit, dimensions given will vary slightly from the actual measurements. Be sure to measure twice before making any cuts.
Form the raised panels on the drawer fronts by tilting your MARK V saw table to 12-degrees and using a crosscut blade. You’ll also need a raised panel jig for making this cut.
After forming the raised panels on the fronts, cut the required dadoes, rabbets and grooves for the remaining parts. Use production techniques to take full advantage of machine set-ups. Glue the drawers together, being careful NOT to glue the drawer bottoms. Check for squareness as you assemble each drawer.
At this time, assemble the slide-out drawboards, glue and clamp. Use your Shopsmith Molding Set-Up with a Nosing cutter to form the finger pull on the drawboard nosing (Q).
11: FINAL TOUCHES
Finish sand the entire project and apply the finish of your choice.
Phase 2
The Rolltop unit features two major components – 1) the Frame with its Tambour and 2), the Drawer/Cubbyhole insert. We suggest that you complete the Frame with the Tambour first, then build the insert. Let’s get started.
1. Select your stock. The materials for this unit should be cut as you progress through the construction steps. We used a high-quality, 3/4″ oak veneer plywood for the Sides (D), but you could use solid 3/4″ oak, glued up to the appropriate sizes, if you prefer. Just be careful to match the grain as closely as possible with the grain pattern on the Pedestal Sides you built in our last installment.
NOTE: Whether you use plywood or solid wood, to achieve the best appearance, the grain direction on these Sides should be vertical.
2. Make the Rolltop Frame.
Start by cutting out parts A through E, according to the List of Materials.
NOTE: If you’re planning to use glued-up oak hardwood for the Top (A), make this assembled piece 13-1/2″ wide instead of 13″, since you won’t be needing the Top Front Strip (B) to edge your plywood.
Next, make a cardboard template for the curved tops of the Sides (D), then transfer this pattern to your stock. Use double-stick tape to attach the two Sides together temporarily so you can cut them both at the same time, using your Bandsaw, Scroll Saw or hand-held Saber Saw.
Once you’ve cut the curves on the two Sides (D), use your Drum Sander to smooth the edges. The Shopsmith Oscillating Spindle Sander Attachment will make this smoothing job go faster and help you “get more mileage”, out of your sanding sleeves, as well.
If you’ve used plywood to make your Sides, once you’ve cut them out, finish off all exposed edges (including the back edges and the curved top edges) using matching 3/4″ oak veneer tape. Although you could use masking tape or duct tape to hold these veneer strips in position while they dry, special 3-Way Edging Clamps will do a much better job and provide access to the edges so you can wipe off any glue squeeze-out before it dries.
Make a Rolltop groove template.
Next, following the dimensions provided in the Side View Drawing, make a 1/4″ or 3/8″ thick hardboard or plywood template to guide your hand-held router as you cut the 9/16″ wide x 3/8″ deep groove on the insides of each Side (D) for the Tambour. Use a 9/16″ diameter straight bit for this job and a router guide bushing with a 5/8″ INSIDE diameter
NOTE: The OUTSIDE diameter of these bushings is typically about 51/64″, so you’ll have to make your groove template dimensions slightly smaller than the actual groove dimensions shown on the Side View Drawing to compensate for this and be certain your finished grooves are positioned properly on the Sides. Here’s a tip. IMPORTANT: To be sure your template is the correct size, subtract the difference between your router bit’s radius and the outside radius of your Guide Bushing from the dimensions given for the track template.
Next, using your Dado Set-Up, cut the rabbets in the rear edges of the Sides (D) that will accept the back (>E). Drill 3/8″ or 1/2″ dowel holes in the bottom edges of the Sides (D). You can either measure the locations of these holes very carefully or use dowel centers to transfer these hole locations to the Desktop once you’re ready to attach the Rolltop unit to the Pedestal Base.
3. Make the Dust Panel.
Cut out parts F through J for the Dust Panel. Cut the 1/4″ grooves in the Rails (F) and Stiles (G) using your Dado Set-Up, your Shopsmith Router Table Kit or Shopsmith Pro Fence System Router Table with a 1/4″ Straight Router Bit to form these grooves.
Next, form the tenons on the Rail ends. Your Dado Set-Up is the best tool for this job. Drill 1/4″ or 3/8″ dowel mounting holes in the outside ends of each end Rail (F) for mounting the assembled Dust Panel to the Sides (D). Again, you can either measure the locations of these holes very carefully or use dowel centers to transfer these hole locations to the Sides once you’re ready to fasten the Dust Panel into position.
Assemble the Dust Panel with glue, but do not glue the plywood pieces (H & J) to the rails and stiles, so everything can expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without splitting.
4. Drawer Partitions. Cut the Drawer Partitions (K) to size and drill two 1/4″ or 3/8″ dowel holes on each bottom and top edge. Locate and drill matching holes in the two mating inside Dust Panel rails (F).
5. Rolltop Frame assembly. Glue and clamp the Sides (D) and Dust Panel together…then glue the Drawer Partitions (K) in place. Drill the three dowel holes in the tops of each Side (D), and mating holes in the bottoms of the Top (A) ends…then assemble the Top (A) to the Sides (D) with glue and clamps. If you have made your Top (A) from 3/4″ plywood, you’ll need to attach the Top Front Strip (B) to the front edge of your Top (A) at this point. You can either screw this piece to the Top using counterbored #9 x 1″ flathead wood screws covered with screw plugs…or simply glue it into position. Again, 3-Way Edging Clamps are the perfect tool for holding this piece in position while the glue sets up.
6. The Tambour. Follow the steps outlined in the special Making Tambours sidebar article to create the Tambour for your desk.
7. The Insert. To make the Insert, you’ll either have to purchase 1/4″ and 1/2″ thick stock for the pieces or use your Bandsaw to resaw these pieces from thicker 3/4″ stock, then run them through a Thickness Planer. The Back (O) can be made from 1/4″ plywood.
Start by cutting all Insert parts (O through Z) to size. Next, carefully lay out all the rabbets and dadoes required for these pieces. Be sure to measure everything twice as the accuracy of all cuts is critical. Cut the dadoes and rabbets in parts P through Z. Using your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw, cut the contours on the front edges of parts S, V and Y. Sand the scrolled edges carefully using your Drum sander.
Prior to assembly, mark all pieces for location. Begin the assembly process by gluing together parts P, Q, R & S. Next, glue and clamp the left Side pieces (T & Z) into position. Allow the glue to set up, then follow the same procedures for the right Side pieces (T, X, Y & Z).
8. Insert Drawers. Cut out all Drawer parts (AA through HH). Using your Dado or Route set-up, cut the 1/4″ grooves and dadoes in the Drawer sides and fronts, as shown in the Drawer Construction drawings. Tilt your Saw Table to 15-degrees and bevel the edges of the Drawer Fronts to create a raised panel look.
CAUTION: This is a potentially dangerous operation since the parts are small. Be sure to use a combination of Push Blocks, Push Sticks> and Feather Boards to keep your hands clear of the Saw Blade at all times.
A Panel Raising Jig will make this job much simpler and safer. Assemble the Drawers with glue, then use your Belt Sander to smooth them to finished dimension.
9. Top Drawers.
A locking drawer joint is used on the Top Drawers (see Top Drawer Construction drawing). For parts JJ through QQ, repeat the same construction procedures as in step 8.
10. Finishing.
Prior to final assembly, apply the finish of your choice to the Insert, Tambour and Frame.
11. Assembly.
Insert the Tambour into the grooves in the Sides (D). Attach the Rolltop to the Desktop with dowels, but do not glue, as this makes the desk easier to disassemble in the event you have to move it. Have someone help you lower the assembled Rolltop onto the dowel holes in the Desktop.
Next, attach the Bottom Rail (C) to the Desktop using #9 x 1-1/4″ flathead wood screws. Nail the back (E) into place using small brads or 2-penny nails. Finally, select and install the hardware of your choice and enjoy!
Phase 1
2: GETTING STARTED
To build this project, you’ll need two sheets of 3/4″ oak veneer plywood. When buying the plywood, try to select two sheets with a similar grain pattern. For the drawers and other interior parts, you’ll need some poplar or pine. Remember, if you select blemished or damaged materials when you’re beginning, you’ll probably wind up with discouraging results in the end. Choose your materials carefully. If you go to a lumber retailer who refuses to let you choose your pieces, walk out and go to a different lumber retailer who will.
3: CUT THE PEDESTAL SIDES (B)
Start by laying out the sides (B) and pull-out drawboards (P) on a piece of your 3/4″ plywood. Make sure the grain direction follows the longest dimension of the parts. Start by cutting the plywood into manageable sized pieces, then trim them to their finished size. Shopsmith’s Crosscut Sliding Table will help you crosscut larger sized pieces with improved accuracy
4: CUT THE DADOES & RABBETS
In the sides (B), using your Dado Attachment or Router Package. Note that all dadoes are to be cut to 1/4″ deep. Since you’ll be performing the same operation on a total of four pieces, keep your MARK V at the same setting until you finish the identical cuts on the remaining three.
5: MAKE THE DUST PANELS
Again, use production techniques to make all of the parts of these panels at once. First, rip parts D, E, F, G, H & J to the same width. Note that the edges of the (8) front frame pieces (D) will be exposed and therefore, should be made from the same wood as the exterior of the desk.
Next, cut the frame pieces to final length, then form a 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep groove in one edge of each piece. You’ll need to take two of the front frame pieces (D) and form a groove on the top back side.(see drawing detail “A”)
Form 1/4″ by 1/4″ long stub tenons on the ends of the frame sides (F, G, H). Cut the 3/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep notches in the corners of the front frame pieces (D) to accept the pedestal facing strips (T).
Next, cut the plywood dust panels (U, V, W) to size and glue up the dust panel assemblies. Use yellow woodworker’s glue, being careful not to get any glue on the plywood panels, since they should “float” loosely in the frame pieces. When clamping the pieces, make sure they remain square and flat. Set the center panel aside.
6: ASSEMBLE DUST PANELS TO SIDES (B)
With glue and clamps. The frames mount flush with the back edge of the sides. Be sure to line up the notches on the fronts of the frames with the front edges of the sides.
Cut the bottom rails (C) to size and attach these with glue and 6-penny finishing nails.
7: ASSEMBLE THE REMAINING PARTS OF THE BASE PEDESTALS
First, attach the pedestal facing strips (T) to the exposed edges of the sides. Next, cut the pedestal backs (Y) to size and attach with 2-penny nails.
Make the pedestal base pieces (L & M) and use your Shaper or Router Package to form a decorative edge on the tops of these pieces, if desired. If you’re using a Shaper set-up, try the 1/4″ and 1/2″ Combination Quarter-Round Cutter or an Ogee Cutter. If you’re working with your MARK V Router Package, you could use a 3/8″ Round-Over Bit or the 5/32″ Roman Ogee Bit.
Miter the pieces to fit the Base, then use your Disc Sander to “shave” the mitered edges down for a perfect fit. Attach the pieces to the base with glue and 6-penny finishing nails. Use a nailset to countersink the nail heads, then fill the holes with a high-quality, stainable wood putty.
