mickyd's Woodworking Projects
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
mickyd's Woodworking Projects
Given your propensity for detail, these lanterns will certainly become heirlooms and with fine results; however, I believe you will be much more satisfied with your results if you pay the price for a reasonable set of dado blades.
I just looked through the plans that you posted and have become aware of the number of dadoes to be cut. I would not attempt that many multiple passes across a standard saw blade for anything that I might care about.
This approach is okay for picnic tables and saw horses, etc. Fine woodworking - naught.
OKAY, you got my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
I just looked through the plans that you posted and have become aware of the number of dadoes to be cut. I would not attempt that many multiple passes across a standard saw blade for anything that I might care about.
This approach is okay for picnic tables and saw horses, etc. Fine woodworking - naught.
OKAY, you got my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
mickyd wrote:FYI - Just got off the phone with ShopSmith. The AMANA dado on their website is backordered so I can have a guilt free look at alternative sources. They are stocked with plenty of dado table inserts for the 500 so I ordered one up.
You probably need to have the dado insert but I would give serious consideration to a home made ZCI for use on this project.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
The advantage of a ZCI is that it supports the wood being cut by the blade right up to the blade (zero clearance). This support tends to reduce (not eliminate) the tear out that occurs when the blade exits on the bottom side of the stock being cut.
All that need be done to create one is to cut a piece of material the size and thickness of a table insert. Drill it to match the insert. Cut counter sinks to match the screw heads used to secure the insert to the table. Raise the table above the saw blade (dado blade) to be used. Install the insert in the table top. Turn on the table saw and slowly lower the table onto the blade. The blade will cut its way through the insert. Do this very slowly. Weart eye protection. When the blade breaks through sawdust and chips tend to fly for a moment.
I use quarter inch hard board to make ZCIs.
It is important that the ZCI be perfectly level with the table top. It may be necessary to use shims to accomplish this.
All that need be done to create one is to cut a piece of material the size and thickness of a table insert. Drill it to match the insert. Cut counter sinks to match the screw heads used to secure the insert to the table. Raise the table above the saw blade (dado blade) to be used. Install the insert in the table top. Turn on the table saw and slowly lower the table onto the blade. The blade will cut its way through the insert. Do this very slowly. Weart eye protection. When the blade breaks through sawdust and chips tend to fly for a moment.
I use quarter inch hard board to make ZCIs.
It is important that the ZCI be perfectly level with the table top. It may be necessary to use shims to accomplish this.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34645
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
You can purchase a Freud 8" dado set for less than $100 at sears. I do not know if they also sell the smaller one(less $$$). Other places sell them also($$ varies).
BTW if you need different width 'grooves', a different ZCI would be needed for each 'size'.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- johnmccrossen
- Gold Member
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:09 pm
- Location: Washington
Mickyd, Just FYI, click on "Special Table Inserts" in the first link. Also be very careful when you lower the table with a blank insert on it. Read through the thread on table inserts and/or check out other woodworking sites for info on making table inserts. Not too difficult but a dado or molder ZCI is a little more scary to make than a sawblade insert. I never can find 1/4" hardboard any more, but other materials will work. Good luck, John McCrossen
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... le+inserts
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... le+inserts
John McCrossen
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
- shipwright
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1160
- Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
- Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
- Contact:
Mike
I had a look at your plans. These are small pieces. The table saw is a big machine. I have never used dadoes much so I may be biased but since the plans later on require you to have a router anyway why not use your router for the dadoes. I do all my dadoes with either a router or the multiple cut method and have made a few fairly decent pieces. I would say that from a safety and accuracy standpoint on small pieces like this a router is a much better idea. Use it upside down in a router table or just up through a piece of plywood. As I said I don't use dadoes much, by choice, and may be biased.
Paul M
I had a look at your plans. These are small pieces. The table saw is a big machine. I have never used dadoes much so I may be biased but since the plans later on require you to have a router anyway why not use your router for the dadoes. I do all my dadoes with either a router or the multiple cut method and have made a few fairly decent pieces. I would say that from a safety and accuracy standpoint on small pieces like this a router is a much better idea. Use it upside down in a router table or just up through a piece of plywood. As I said I don't use dadoes much, by choice, and may be biased.
Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese