Shopsmith Forums

Decided to create this thread to document my woodworking projects. I'll use an index similar to my Greenieand ER10restoration threads to quickly get to particular projects, answers to questions, or whatever else might seems interesting. It will list the topic name along with the associated post directly after.

I'm really looking forward to tackling some projects. Got LOTS of equipment needs to address since I am starting with very little other than my 2 ShopSmiths, a saw blade or 2, and some basic hand tools. Got LOTS of expertise needs also since I haven't done woodworking since shop class high school. Long lost memory!!

Here we go on my woodworking adventures.

• Porch, Patio (or even indoor) candle lanterns - started 1-24-2010, completed 5-18-2010
• Pegboard storage rack - started 6-01-10 , completed 6-26-2010
• Workbench modifications - Addition of casters, Worktable extenstion concept, Extension revision A, Extension revsion B,
• Adjustable set-up gage - Added 6-26-10, completed 8-19-2010
• Tapered furniture legs - started 7-24-2010, completed 7-26-2010
• House number welcome sign - started 8-11-2010, completed 10-21-2010
• Three legged shop stool - started 10-24-2010

This is going to be my first project.
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[ATTACH]7541[/ATTACH]. . [ATTACH]9279[/ATTACH].
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Approximate cost: Update 6/01/10 - Final cost was $41 for the set of three. Breakdown in this post.

• Cord glass - Depends on the stores minumum purchase. I got three 3-9/16" x 72" stripsfor $50, enough to make 4 sets
• Copper shim stock sheet - .020" x 6" x 25" (way more than enough) $20 at McMaster-Carr
• Mahogany - Here's a material list that gives you board feet to buy. I used this 8"x4"x13/16" 'scrap' that was free. Thanks mrcabinetmaker. Update 2-06-10 - The 8" length was a poor choice for cutting out the 2 shorter 'stiles' due to excess waste. See lesson learned #1 below. Should have used a piece of around 10" to be able to cut both the 4-3/8", 5-3/8" lengths out of 1 strip. Update 3-04-10 Buy a 1" x 6" x 4' board and use the layout guide below.
• Trip to the lumberyard to pick up the rest of the lumber.- post 143 Purchased 1"T x 8W which was actually 25/32"T x 71/4"W x 2.625' (31-1/2")L

Here's the full plan.
[ATTACH]7544[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]8106[/ATTACH] - Use this layout guide. Created from jpg's post #187. Thanks jpg. I'll do a sketchup version at some point.
[ATTACH]9273[/ATTACH] - Here is a sketchup file.
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Right out of the chute, equipment needs. The plans callout for a 'stack dado set'. Can you guys weigh in on what would be a good first purchase?




February 6, 2010 update - Lessons learned section below added after the project was underway
Lessons learned....

1. Don't cut your glass until you need it in case you need to make an adjustment to it. See post 118 Tip from charlese.
2. The plan calls for 21' of strip stock. Make sure to consider your waste when calculating how much stock you need. My stock was 8" long yet only yielded 1 'stile' piece per 8" length since they are each 4-3/8", 5-3/8", and 6-3/8" inches long. Consider the length of your stock carefully. See post 118. Found an on-line board foot calculator after I had cut wood to help determine how much wood to buy. Material list above came from this website.
3. Make sure to look at the quality of your cuts for smoothness. Saw marks can be a sign of process or sawblade issues. See post 126 and read several related posts after that. Make continuous motion cuts. Don't apply too much pressure to hold your strips against the fence when cutting. Make sure you have a good blade.

Thread index

• Glue up and squaring the side pieces - 206, 200
• Cutting out the copper motifs - 292
• Torching the motifs to change thier color - 305
• Finished project - 305

mickyd wrote:This is going to be my first project.
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[ATTACH]7541[/ATTACH]
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Right out of the shoot, equipment needs. The plans callout for a 'stack dado set'. Can you guys weigh in on what would be a good first purchase?

Six inch 'freud' or shopsmith. With small motors(< 1HP) a larger 'set' is wishful thinking! You will need a dado blade table insert.

JPG40504 wrote:Six inch 'freud' or shopsmith. With small motors(< 1HP) a larger 'set' is wishful thinking! You will need a dado blade table insert.

Ouch!!!! This one is going to require upper managment approval (>$100) It also doesn't indicate that stock is available. I'll have to call. Maybe I should have taken up needle point. This one I can just squeak by.

That Freud you referenced is a good set. Go for it!
BTW, I find it easier to seek forgiveness than to ask permission.
Gene

Mike

Did You say you are going to CUT WOOD with that bit of jewelery? Good on Ya. If you want to do dados on the cheap, and if it's only a few, quicker, you can do what lots of us do and just run your saw blade through several times. It costs $0 and it saves the setup time playing with the dado.

Paul M

Gene Howe wrote:That Freud you referenced is a good set. Go for it!
BTW, I find it easier to seek forgiveness than to ask permission.
Gene

That USED to be my motto, then Moses came down from the mountain carrying the the 11th commandment "Thou shalt not even think about doing that again else your life-ith will be made miserable!!". So now, command is obeyed but like you, I still freely GIVE the advise.

mickyd wrote:This is going to be my first project.
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[ATTACH]7541[/ATTACH]
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Right out of the chute, equipment needs. The plans callout for a 'stack dado set'. Can you guys weigh in on what would be a good first purchase?

Mike,
For a guy with your patience and persistence, repeated passes on the tablesaw / thin-kerf can do about anything a Stacked Dado can do. In fact some PTWFE or other Shopsmith training manuals point out how 'nice' it is to keep the fence fixed and "dial" the Quill for successive passes. Maybe you can save your Bucks for a super-duper custom-diameter custom-bore carbide blade. If not, just sharpen up your steel blades!

shipwright wrote:Mike

Did You say you are going to CUT WOOD with that bit of jewelery? Good on Ya. If you want to do dados on the cheap, and if it's only a few, quicker, you can do what lots of us do and just run your saw blade through several times. It costs $0 and it saves the setup time playing with the dado.

Paul M

This works extremely well unless you need a nice clean bottom in your dados. I just did a handful that way yesterday.

In fact, I need some feed back on what I did yesterday while cutting these "dado look-a- likes".

I stood on the outfeed side of the Mark V and pulled the stock and miter gauge to me. It worked great for what I was doing but I am interested in hearing from the safety minded folks.

I added the pdf of the candle lantern plan to post #2 above. In it, you can see the dado work that is needed. The dado is used both for jig features and also the components for the lanterns. Due to the number of cuts involved, if I wanted to use the saw blade / multiple pass method of stock removal, I would think that I need to either redesign the jig to accommodate more that one piece at a time or go with the dado. Comments?