Shopsmith Forums

So, I have decided to undergo a very daunting task of re-creating a piece of cabinetry (to the best of my limited ability), as a gift to my wife.

This is going to require a hexagon shape, but only half of it. So i'm getting set up to cut a 22 1/2 degree angle (for the hex cuts to marry) and realize that the 6.5-7" planks that need to be bevel cut for the angles are too wide to accommodate the material and the fence.... Due to my Mk 500 table being a little fella'....

To also compound the issue, I barely make the 22 1/2 degree table tilt to the left and it bottoms out on the powerhead. 22 1/2 degrees to the right and I do not have enough blade opening (metal SS insert) to clear the blade, primarily due to the notches in the insert AND also cant reposition the table carriage to the left to clear the insert opening - as I run into the powerhead....... UGH!

Didn't take pics, but will this evening if what I typed does not paint a picture.

Can you tilt the table to the right, and extend the quill to center the blade in the insert.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Bevels.htm

Another place to find help is the book Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone and the section on Joinery. The link below is for the current edition of the book here on the Shopsmith website. It uses the Mark V 510. If you have a copy of the 2nd, 3rd or Revised Edition it uses the Mark 5 aka Mark V 500. It is also a good reference to have if you don't already have one but get one of the earlier editions (2, 3 or Revised) for the original Mark 5. The older editions are inexpensive on the used book market. Note the 1st edition was done for the Shopsmith Model 10's.

https://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsa ... /index.htm

In addition to great suggestions you have already gotten, I can add you might need to make an auxiliary wood fence to add to your fence. With table tilted to 22.5 degrees, quill advanced slightly, and table butted up to my auxiliary fence, width of a rip bevel cut would be about 7" (to long edge).

For wider widths, just move headstock and table to left.

For narrower cuts (but still wider than with fence mounted to table), you might need to pad out auxiliary fence above the table.

For my auxiliary fence, I have a dado where I can use Shopsmith feather boards, and holes where can I can use my homemade wooden feather boards.

I did not try with lower guard in place ... that may not be possible.

And, are you making a hexagon or an octagon ... tilt table to 22.5 degrees for an octagon, 30 degrees for a hexagon.

rpd wrote:Can you tilt the table to the right, and extend the quill to center the blade in the insert.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Bevels.htm

HOLY COW!!

Didn't even consider to think of extending the quill and locking it............ I guess being a newbie inherently gives me tunnel vision and thought...

Thank you for the advice!

br549 wrote:In addition to great suggestions you have already gotten, I can add you might need to make an auxiliary wood fence to add to your fence. With table tilted to 22.5 degrees, quill advanced slightly, and table butted up to my auxiliary fence, width of a rip bevel cut would be about 7" (to long edge).

For wider widths, just move headstock and table to left.

For narrower cuts (but still wider than with fence mounted to table), you might need to pad out auxiliary fence above the table.

For my auxiliary fence, I have a dado where I can use Shopsmith feather boards, and holes where can I can use my homemade wooden feather boards.

I did not try with lower guard in place ... that may not be possible.

And, are you making a hexagon or an octagon ... tilt table to 22.5 degrees for an octagon, 30 degrees for a hexagon.

THIS is why I love this forum and ya'll! Not only do you help solve Newbie issues and orientation, but you post pics to speak to us! (I'm a visual and tactile learner).

I'm actually doing a Octagon, i'm geometrically challenged. Thank you for straightening me out!

Thank you for the pictures, i'm definitely going to look into this!

Mullet wrote:

rpd wrote:Can you tilt the table to the right, and extend the quill to center the blade in the insert.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Bevels.htm

HOLY COW!!

Didn't even consider to think of extending the quill and locking it............ I guess being a newbie inherently gives me tunnel vision and thought...

Thank you for the advice!

Way back when I got my first Shopsmith this got me also. Just wasn't used to the idea of a quill on a table saw to adjust the blade position as the table tilts.

I use a zero clearance insert for cuts like that instead of the metal Shopsmith one. Make them out of 1/4" stock and cut one to the angle you want.

Thanks for the suggestions!

I was wondering about a zero clearance insert.

I have some 1/4 sheet ply, guess I will try to make some inserts just to have

Be aware that since 1/4" plywood is actually less than a 1/4", blank inserts made out of 1/4" plywood will be a little thin, and may wind up being slightly recessed below the table surface, and potentially cause stock being fed thru to get hung up on the slight step up to the main table.

I have found 1/4" masonite or tempered hardboard to be a true 1/4" thickness and will set flush with the table when installed.