Shopsmith, Are there shortcomings?

[dusty]

I was recently enticed to read a series of posts by critics of the Shopsmith. Nearly all of the stated shortcomings are, in my opinion, nothing more than preferences (biases) of the critic.

However, there is one that may have merit. I must emphasis MAY HAVE MERIT.

The critics claim that a tilting table is the reason why they would not have (or got rid of) a Shopsmith. I admit that there have been times when I wished I could go to a tablesaw with a fix table and a tilting arbor to do my work. But those instances have been few.

What I would like to see is a Sawdust Session where emphasis is placed on using the tilting table. Are there special procedures for doing some tasks on the tilting table? Is there any task that cannot be done safely on a tilting table that could be done on other table saws? With the table tilted, how do you hold the stock in place? Is there an increased risk of binding (kickback)? Tilt right or tilt left? When and why?

I can think of only one - bevels on the end of "long" stock.

Do any of you agree that the tilting table is a serious shortcoming?

[curiousgeorge]

YES!!!
And, I too, would like to see a sawdust session on the tilting table.

[dusty]

Are you saying

YES!!! I do agree that the tilting table is a serious shortcoming?

or are you saying

YES!!! I would like to see a Sawdust Session on the tilting table?

[pinkiewerewolf]

Dusty, I agree!
That is one of the questions I asked in another thread concerning the Incra Sled. (not to turn this thread into an Incra discussion)
I would really like to to use my Mark V for all of my straight and mitered cuts but I've been a bit uncomfortable with longer mitered pieces.
Still, the safety grip has powered me through them so far, so I don't want to get another compund miter saw, if I can help it.
P.S. Recently, I did get the miter extension, but haven't had a chance to use it yet.

[Ed in Tampa]

I agree it could be an interesting session.

I have done a small amount of research on this subject and I was surprised to learn that "some" (again notice the word some) Woodworking Masters (whatever that is and whoever they are) will not tilt their blade on tilting arbor saws.
They believe that the tilt mechanism can and does move the blade out of perfect alignment.

Also the many of the prized (maybe I should include the word ancient) saws used in cabinet making only had tilting tables.

In production shops they often have a jig that holds the piece at the exact angle, thus eliminating the need to ever change the blade and table setting which is in perfect 90 degree relationship. Again this is a production type setting where duplication of parts is the norm since they usually build to a standard plan allowing for a set number of required jigs.

My biggest question is how often do people cut bevels? I'm fairly active using my saw and I can't remember the last time I had to tilt my table to cut a bevel, I don't believe I ever did it more than a half dozen times in 24 years

[dusty]

I may be using the term "bevel" incorrectly. Is a bevel an end cut as well an edge cut.

If I am cutting floor moulding or mop boards and making 45s at each end, is this a bevel?

Last summer I helped install 1800 feet of floor moulding and we cut all of the miters on the Shopsmith using the miter guage and a make shift 8' fence. They wanted to rent a chop saw but I resisted, insisting that we could use the Shopsmith.

Did we do bevels? or did we really only do miters?

[johnm]

The tilting table worries me too, especially for bevels on long pieces. Luckily I have on old 1957 Dewalt radial arm saw (about the same vintage as my greenie) that I could use for that. But the radial arm saw scares me in other ways....

[Ed in Tampa]

I may be using the term "bevel" incorrectly. Is a bevel an end cut as well an edge cut.

If I am cutting floor moulding or mop boards and making 45s at each end, is this a bevel?

Last summer I helped install 1800 feet of floor moulding and we cut all of the miters on the Shopsmith using the miter guage and a make shift 8' fence. They wanted to rent a chop saw but I resisted, insisting that we could use the Shopsmith.

Did we do bevels? or did we really only do miters?

Dusty
To me a mitre is cut using a mitre gauge set to a particular angle.
A bevel is a cut made with a tilted table or arbor.

Usually a mitre cut is made in pieces of wood no wider than the blade depth.
Bevel cuts are similar to crosscuts or rip cuts only with the either the table or arbor tilted. This is not a hard and fast rule.

I believe also most mitre cuts are made so the angle closes so it could be some other angle than 45 degrees while a bevel is usually made to make a corner and is always wanted to be a perfect 45. However that also is not a hard nor fast rule. Many mitres are cut as perfect 45's and many bevels are set at all angles.

In flooring you would cut miters and for the molding you would also cut miters. You would have made a bevel cut had you needed to put an angle on the long edge of the flooring or molding.

I would have used a miter saw since it is far easier than using the SS. Just as I often use the Radial Arm for crosscuts since there is little chance of something moving and ruining the cut.

I have all three a SS and mitre saw and a Radial Arm. I always use the SS for rips, usually use the radial arm for crosscuts and I usually use the mitre saw for all miters although I have do, do them on the SS also.
I rarely ever set up my radial arm to cut bevels or miters. And I almost never cut bevels on any of the three saws.
Ed

[pinkiewerewolf]

Good point on clarifying the cuts.
I am having most problems with my technique concerning compound miter cuts.
Angled cuts that are also using the tilting function of the table.

[nuhobby]

I have made 3-4 boxes in the last year, where I've tilted the table 45 degrees to bevel my pieces to corner together. With the small/medium size of my workpieces, and especially using the benefit of the Miter Gage Stop Rod, I did pretty well.

However, I have been considering making an angle jig as has been mentioned above. It might need less concentration to make the same cuts.

Anyway, I'm fully hooked on Shopsmith and I won't be getting a flat-table / tilt-arbor table saw for the foreseeable future.