PowerPro review - the whole thing

[jcraigie]

8iowa - you back up North again or are you still in Fla.?

[nuhobby]

For my part I don't get over-revving with the 250rpm setting. I use it fairly often for grinding/sharpening jobs with the 12" steel sanding disk. My Power Pro installation was Labor Day 2010, and I did a re-calibration with Wes over the phone in mid-Sept 2010. It's possible that they've issued newer calibrations since then.
In the vast complex world of electronic feedback controls, achieving stability has different challenges for different systems. There is a difference between a zero-error system and a steady-state-error system. The latter case is usually easier to stabilize against oscillations. I really don't know what all they've tried to do with the secret calibration menu.

[8iowa]

Jeff:

We're U.P. here, in the middle of the Hiawatha National Forest for the summer & fall. Let me know if you ever get U.P. this way.

I just finished my "double tilt" upgrade and am now ready to DIY the Power Pro.

[charlese]

Man-o-man! I am a bit embarrassed over this homemade problem I gave to my PowerPro!!:o

FINALLY I got around to searching for, and finding a 20 Amp Industrial rated GFCI outlet. I was a bit hesitant as it was made in China, but installed it according to instructions, then tested this outlet and the other two that are down line in the same circuit.

Whaty'a know! The PowerPro runs just as well as on other circuits in my shop. No machine shutdowns, no need for loops in the power cord - in fact the PP just runs normally.

Since I threw away my first GFCI outlet, I can't be sure it was a 20 amp one. I do know that I bought it at Lowe's. It was probably rated for household current (15 amp).

[JPG]

Man-o-man! I am a bit embarrassed over this homemade problem I gave to my PowerPro!!:o

FINALLY I got around to searching for, and finding a 20 Amp Industrial rated GFCI outlet. I was a bit hesitant as it was made in China, but installed it according to instructions, then tested this outlet and the other two that are down line in the same circuit.

Whaty'a know! The PowerPro runs just as well as on other circuits in my shop. No machine shutdowns, no need for loops in the power cord - in fact the PP just runs normally.

Since I threw away my first GFCI outlet, I can't be sure it was a 20 amp one. I do know that I bought it at Lowe's. It was probably rated for household current (15 amp).

What 'brand' is the new one?

[8iowa]

Chuck:

If at all possible, I still recommend going to 240V. You'll get more powerful performance and not have to deal with the GFI's. I still have one conventional Shopsmith and have placed a 240V headstock on it also.

I have a Radio Shack intercom between the shop and the house that operates thru the 120V lines. Interestingly, the Power Pro interferes with the intercom even when the switch is on and the shaft is not turning.

[charlese]

Red:
The brand name of the GFCI outlet is "Trade Master". Company name is Pass & Seymour.

The back of the box says "the most durable GFCI available - exceeds UL surge requirements: survives 100X the required UL 3kA/6kV voltage surge test cycles"

I don't know what that means, but you probably do. Anyway, it works!

Ralph:
Thanks for your recommendation! I hear you loud and clear! After giving some thought to going with 220V, however have not yet figured how many outlets to convert. The present way my shop works is - the Shopsmith plugs into 4 different outlets, depending how the machine is positioned. Problem is I sometimes use some of these outlets for other 110/15V power tools.

[JPG]

Red:
The brand name of the GFCI outlet is "Trade Master". Company name is Pass & Seymour.

The back of the box says "the most durable GFCI available - exceeds UL surge requirements: survives 100X the required UL 3kA/6kV voltage surge test cycles"

I don't know what that means, but you probably do. Anyway, it works!

Ralph:
Thanks for your recommendation! I hear you loud and clear! After giving some thought to going with 220V, however have not yet figured how many outlets to convert. The present way my shop works is - the Shopsmith plugs into 4 different outlets, depending how the machine is positioned. Problem is I sometimes use some of these outlets for other 110/15V power tools.

They are not cheap nor easy to find but there are duplex receptacles with one side 115v and the second side 230v. Thus one place to plug either or one of each at a time. The branch circuit is connected as a 230v brance with two pole breaker, but the neutral is also run to provide 115v. Either pole overloading(due to 115v overload) will trip both poles. Requires running 3w with ground.

[damagi]

Using my SS which I upgraded to a Mark 7 (ie: a 520 that got the double tilt and powerpro upgrades), I noticed a couple things:

1) Powerpro Con: you can't use a foot switch for power anymore. I haven't used one, but I can definitely see how I would use one in turning and such. A remote control would be *really* nice.

2) Powerpro pro: no need to worry about starting the headstock too quickly on a tool. When switching from sawing to bandsaw, you just move the headstock and connect the coupler. Previously you would need to remember to lower the speed before hooking up.

3) Double tilt con: Since the SPT mounting holes are part of the end, you can no longer leave a jointer or bandsaw mounted when you want to go quickly into drill press mode.

[JPG]

Using my SS which I upgraded to a Mark 7 (ie: a 520 that got the double tilt and powerpro upgrades), I noticed a couple things:

1) Powerpro Con: you can't use a foot switch for power anymore. I haven't used one, but I can definitely see how I would use one in turning and such. A remote control would be *really* nice.

2) Powerpro pro: no need to worry about starting the headstock too quickly on a tool. When switching from sawing to bandsaw, you just move the headstock and connect the coupler. Previously you would need to remember to lower the speed before hooking up.

3) Double tilt con: Since the SPT mounting holes are part of the end, you can no longer leave a jointer or bandsaw mounted when you want to go quickly into drill press mode.

Finally! A definitive workable solution to the bandsaw table(aluminum) clearance problem!:D:eek:

Any word on planer control box switch as well? Me thinks another oversight like the larger BS table.(or since no easy solution, none is offered this time)