I have a Shopsmith 510 that I bought new in 1996.. It was oiled and serviced, right before I quit using it due to health problems around the first part of 1998. It has been sitting idle since. There is no rust, so that is not a problem. Is there anything I should do to it before putting it back into service? I plan to re-oil the sheaves and everything. It probally hasn't been run over 5 hours since I bought it! I would think that should pretty much be everything I would need to do.. But, I keep thinking I am overlooking something!! Any ideas??
Thanks!!!
twig/al
Maitainance Question
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Maitainance Question
Having too much fun in Alabama!!!
510 owner/user since 1996.
510 owner/user since 1996.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21374
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Maintenance Question
I had that exact same question just a few months ago. I am not an expert just recently experienced with the same challenge. I too asked for guidance from the Users Group. Here is what I concluded from the advice given.
Dig out the operators manual and read it, read the maintenance section very well. The Shopsmith maintenance manual is very comprehensive and well written. In my opinion (IMO) it should always be the first place to look for an answer to a question regarding the SS.
Clean it good and wax it; wax it according to the instructions contained in the manual.
Lubricate it good; lubricate it in accordance with the instructions contained in the manual.
Align it GOOD; align it in accordance with the instructions contained in the manual.
After reviewing the Safety Instructions, go make saw dust.
Post your results and ask your questions; we're all interested in your results.
Happy Woodworking:)
Dig out the operators manual and read it, read the maintenance section very well. The Shopsmith maintenance manual is very comprehensive and well written. In my opinion (IMO) it should always be the first place to look for an answer to a question regarding the SS.
Clean it good and wax it; wax it according to the instructions contained in the manual.
Lubricate it good; lubricate it in accordance with the instructions contained in the manual.
Align it GOOD; align it in accordance with the instructions contained in the manual.
After reviewing the Safety Instructions, go make saw dust.
Post your results and ask your questions; we're all interested in your results.
Happy Woodworking:)
"The Shopsmith maintenance manual is very comprehensive and well written."
Thanks, Dusty, I wrote it many years ago.
But I'm finding there is some new thinking here at Shopsmith, particularly with respect the headstock maintenance and table alignment, that isn't covered in the manuals. I've been getting these together and will put them up on the Academy website during the next month -- maintenance/alignment instruction with video demos.
Al, newest thinking on getting a Mark V ready to run is 4-6 drops light oil in the holes that lube the control sheaves and motor sheaves, clean the bearings to remove fine sawdust, and vacuum (DON'T blow) the sawdust out from the headstock. (If you blow it out with compressed air, some of it will wind up in the motor.) Wax AND BUFF the tubes, the quill, and the table surfaces.
With all good wishes,
Thanks, Dusty, I wrote it many years ago.
But I'm finding there is some new thinking here at Shopsmith, particularly with respect the headstock maintenance and table alignment, that isn't covered in the manuals. I've been getting these together and will put them up on the Academy website during the next month -- maintenance/alignment instruction with video demos.Al, newest thinking on getting a Mark V ready to run is 4-6 drops light oil in the holes that lube the control sheaves and motor sheaves, clean the bearings to remove fine sawdust, and vacuum (DON'T blow) the sawdust out from the headstock. (If you blow it out with compressed air, some of it will wind up in the motor.) Wax AND BUFF the tubes, the quill, and the table surfaces.
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
510 Maintenance
Thanks Nick for the advice about not blowing with compressed air. I have been doing just that for the past few years. Without using compressed air, a lot of sawdust remains in the motor compartment. Can't get rid of that without blowing unless I drop the bottom. Isn't that a problem?
Came up with an Idea two years ago after, replacing The Idler shaft assembly for the second time, to aid in my maintence schedule. It really helps. I write the date of last service on a strip of masking tape, using marking pen, and stick it to the headstock just above the directions. When it gets close to a month past that date, - it is time to service again.
For the record, I have used my 510 about 300 days each year since purchase in 1996. That is most every day. have never had any trouble with belts, am still using the originals. Have also replaced a quadrant assembly about 6 or 7 years ago. The teeth were worn and speed was increasing by itself. The problem was partly in the 1st idler shaft. Also replaced a Jointer fence tilt quadrant. It was stretched from closing it too tightly. Have not yet had a motor problem.
charlese:)
Came up with an Idea two years ago after, replacing The Idler shaft assembly for the second time, to aid in my maintence schedule. It really helps. I write the date of last service on a strip of masking tape, using marking pen, and stick it to the headstock just above the directions. When it gets close to a month past that date, - it is time to service again.
For the record, I have used my 510 about 300 days each year since purchase in 1996. That is most every day. have never had any trouble with belts, am still using the originals. Have also replaced a quadrant assembly about 6 or 7 years ago. The teeth were worn and speed was increasing by itself. The problem was partly in the 1st idler shaft. Also replaced a Jointer fence tilt quadrant. It was stretched from closing it too tightly. Have not yet had a motor problem.
charlese:)
Hi,
What I do is use a piece of scrap wood, something like 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide and slip that into the areas where the hose will not fit. You can scrape and move the dust into areas where you can reach it. I never try to get 100% of the dust, some places are just to hard to get to.
It is not really a big deal as you no doubt know to take the headstock off the machine and take the motor pan off.... then you can really give it a cleaning.
I also have an attachment for the vac that was sold for cleaning computers that attaches to a vac with an adapter then has a 1/2" or so plastic hose that you can either use like that or attack some hard plastic parts to that let you get in tight spots. Sorry I don't remember where I got it or what the real name of it is... if someone wants I can take a picture of it and post that so you will know what I'm talking about... really handy for a lot of projects....
Ed
What I do is use a piece of scrap wood, something like 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide and slip that into the areas where the hose will not fit. You can scrape and move the dust into areas where you can reach it. I never try to get 100% of the dust, some places are just to hard to get to.
It is not really a big deal as you no doubt know to take the headstock off the machine and take the motor pan off.... then you can really give it a cleaning.
I also have an attachment for the vac that was sold for cleaning computers that attaches to a vac with an adapter then has a 1/2" or so plastic hose that you can either use like that or attack some hard plastic parts to that let you get in tight spots. Sorry I don't remember where I got it or what the real name of it is... if someone wants I can take a picture of it and post that so you will know what I'm talking about... really handy for a lot of projects....
Ed
Posted a picture of that attachment at:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sb ... 2365670786
It fits on the regular home vac size hose end (1-1/4").
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sb ... 2365670786
It fits on the regular home vac size hose end (1-1/4").
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yorktowndad
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:47 am
One thing with regard to waxing...twig/al wrote:dustywoodworker, Thanks!! Already had out the manual, did the cleanup, just had to wipe off some dust.. Now for the waxing and oiling.. It is still on the money on alignment... Again, THANKS!!!
I attended one of the Traveling Academy classes last year and got a good tip regarding the use of TopCoat on the table surfaces instead of wax. If you use wax, it can leave a residue that has a chance of transferring to your work piece. This can cause issues when applying a finish to the wood. TopCoat, or something similar, serves the same purpose of wax on the table surfaces but will not impair the application of finishes to the wood.
A rule of thumb is to use wax where metal touches metal and TopCoat where metal touches wood.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21374
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Maintenace Question
I will take your advice under advisement.
The first time I experience a discoloration that may have been caused by my table top I will seriously consider Topcoat. However, I believe that if one buffes the wax properly it will not cause problems. You can't just put it on and wipe it off, the wax must be buffed hard (when it begins to really shine).
I buff all of my table tops with a buffer wheel; even those that are not metal.
The first time I experience a discoloration that may have been caused by my table top I will seriously consider Topcoat. However, I believe that if one buffes the wax properly it will not cause problems. You can't just put it on and wipe it off, the wax must be buffed hard (when it begins to really shine).
I buff all of my table tops with a buffer wheel; even those that are not metal.