Two 3/4 Hp Motors that need HELP ?

[allsas]

Can either or both of these be reliable for a reasonable expenditure? I would value a reversing motor for lathe operations, can these be wired to reverse.

First one started and ran, several times. On a 3 minute extended run, it started to smoke. I shut if off and found that the motor casing was very warm. Now the motor just buzzes and it does not start using a power strip with a 15 amp fuse. Exchanging the power strip with a newer one, yielded a slowly rotating motor w/Clockwise rotation, not working.
This motor has an external capacitor and a black box with GE in small white lettering on it. The capacitor and box are held to the end of the motor case with a 2" bolt and a spring steel strap bridging the capacitor and the box, A GE motor without any badging on the motor case, no S. N.

Second motor just buzzes. I have tried swapping the two black colored wires on the middle tabs of the toggle switch. No difference. Replacing the power strip, produced a buzz and then a started motor! 2X.
It has a Franklin Electric badge, S.N.C995A2. 27 sec to stop spinning, 20 seconds for centrifugal switch click on shutdown. Normal vibration and noise, clockwise rotation. Case was stone cold after running for two minnutes.

Thanking you in advance for your time and expertise.

[garys]

Take them to a local electric motor repair shop and get a professional opinion and estimate to fix them.

[JPG]

Get rid of the power strip and any extension cords.

If the motor is starved for voltage(due to drops in the power cord/strip) it will over heat. If repeated attempts to start are done close together it will get hot.

The question is, did it/they get hot enough to damage(short) the windings.

At this point a motor shop is likely a good idea, but do not expect miracles. These ss motors are somewhat unique.

The motor with the black box etc. has an external(black box) start relay.

If you are unfamiliar with motors, it is unlikely you can get this figured out by yourself. folks here are willing to help, but you MUST do as told and not go off independantly(especially without informing us).

In any event if it buzzes or rotates VEEERY slowly, disconnect power ASAP!!! They can become damaged in seconds.

[Hobbyman2]

working on motors require some knowledge of electricity,,,as well as electrical testers that most folks dont have.


analog ohms testers and digital Amp gages are a must to do it right.


if you have these things available,,, and are familiar with them,,,, I would say you stand a chance at repairing or diagnosing the problem.

If not then take it to a motor shop as mentioned .

A couple things to check before you do .

1. does the motor shaft move from end to end if you pull and push on the shaft?
If it moves very much ,, more then 1/2 the thickness of a penny is too much ,
this could mean bearing failure.

2 does the shaft spin free ,if it does not then this could mean a bearing failure or worse.

also like mentioned above,,,,, if there is a round cover that protrudes off the side ,,, inside of it there is 1 or possibly 2 capacitors .

They can be easily tested with a analog ohms meter .



There should be a id tag on the motor ,,,that will tell you how many amps the motor should be {RLA = RUNNING LOAD AMPS..FLA= FULL LOAD AMPS}, rpm , voltage ,, IE 110 / 220 ,,,,,,it has to be what the tag says or it will fail. it will list model and rotation, cl = clockwise ccl = counter clock wise ,, that is looking at the shaft end on a single shaft motor.

You might be trying to run a 220 volt motor on a 110 volt power source?
Once running under load you should check the running load amps,,
If you don't have the tools ,,,or are un familiar with electric ,,,then I suggest a shop.

Be sure to unplug electric supply before working on any electric equipment .
Be careful when messing with capacitors , they carry a electrical charge and can and will let ya know if ya mis handle them ,, don't touch both terminals at the same time

Use caution .
If you don't know take it in to a shop.

Good luck
Hobbtman2

[Hobbyman2]

centrifugal switch?

May I ask if this is a well pump motor?
if so is it a submersible pump?
Some ,,,,,,,submersibles are not made to run in open air,,,, IF I recall.

In case you decide to try to make repairs ,,,,,You might find brushes and bearings on line or by calling manufacture,, however if you disassemble it and ,,,,if the armature or shaft shows damage , you might be better off scrapping them for the copper .

The description of the 1st motor,,at first,,, sounded like a bad capacitor,,,then sounded like bearings or brushes ,,,on the capacitor ,,, you can go one size bigger on the MF/uf,,, but not smaller .

IE/,,,,, 5 mf/uf can be replaced by a 7 MF / uf

BUT NOT A 3 MF /UF

ratings are listed on the body of the capacitor.along with voltages .


Before buying new capacitors they can be tested,,

To test a capacitor with a analog tester,, {{{a tester with a meter}}},, set the meter to OHMS ,,remove at least one brown wire ,, from the capacitor ,, preferably both brown wires ,,,,,touch the leads from the tester ,,, to each of the capacitor terminals,,, the needle should jump across the meter and fall back.

If you wait a few minutes it will do it again,

Any thing else and it is bad.

That goes for a start capacitor and a run capacitor,

Some bigger motors have both.

Hobbyman2

[JPG]

I assumed he was referring to SS greenie motors.

[Hobbyman2]

If you search Franklin Electric motors web site,,,the motors listed ,,,at least the ones I found ,,,are pump motors.
https://franklin-electric.com

that is why I asked if it was a pump motor.


centrifugal switch
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_switch

A variation of the centrifugal switch used a changeover contact to ensure that the auxiliary windings remain in the circuit through a running capacitor. These motors are called two-value or capacitor start capacitor run motors.


Centrifugal switches were also used in early electric fans, particularly those made in the 1900s and early 1910s.
==================
if the motor doesn't come up to running speed on a motor with such a switch the switch will not disengage .

Some capacitors are dual duty capacitors ,, they have both start and run capacitors in one body.

It is possible one side could have been bad .

They can be found in every thing from radios ,tv's, HVAC compressors and fan motors,, etc.

They test the same way , their is a c stamped on the top of the capacitor ,,,stands for common,,,, and the other 2 terminals are for the other legs, to test ,,,,,,,,go one at a time from either terminal to the one stamped with a c with your tester leads , the meter will jump and fall back if it is good .

Hope this helps.
Hobbyman2

[JPG]

All(that I am aware of) ss motors have a start capacitor only.

The capacitor and start winding are switched out after the motor is running by either a mechanical internal switch or an external relay. The start winding generates sufficient voltage to pick the relay and hold it until the motor stops running.

This is true of all brands that I know of and includes the Mark VII motor.

[Hobbyman2]

That is good information.

I am still looking for the information on his particular motor.
All I can find is fluid transfer motors under the description.

When the topic of dust collectors was mentioned ,,,,,I had flash backs from my younger days ,,,,, I serviced commercial collection systems that had 5 speed electric motors running at speeds that could suck a golf ball through a garden hose.

This may come n handy if my SS motor ever fails.

Hobbyman2

[Hobbyman2]

https://www.google.com/search?q=shopsmi ... 4&dpr=1.25


Here are some diagrams and pictures of SS motors.

Diagrams show SS motors have both a start and a run side on the capacitor.

Hobbyman2