How to resaw 1 1/2" x 5" Mahogany into 3/4" x 5" boards

[gturney]

Hello, wondering if I could get some advice on the best way to resaw a piece of 1 1/2" x 5" Mahogany into two boards that are 3/4" x 5". I have never attempted to resaw any stock to date so this is new to me. Wondering what size blade to use, what speed to run the Bandsaw at and any kind of fence system I should use (My Bandsaw table is the cast iron type with two miter gauge slots at 90 deg to each other.

Thanks,

Greg

[garys]

I use slow speeds down around A or B. My favorite blade for this kind of work is the 5/8" wide one specially for resawing like you plan to do. If you already have a 1/2" one, it will work too. You want as wide a blade as possible because wider blades track better where you need straight cuts. You will need some kind of support fence. If you have an old model 500 saw miter gauge it should work if you add a taller board to it to increase height.
Since you are new to this, get set up and first try resawing some old 2x4s until you feel you are ready for the good wood.

This is the link to the Shopsmigh blades.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... blades.htm

[DLB]

There is a great deal of information on 'blade drift' including whether it actually exists or not. This video by Doug Reid is a good one and specific to the SS BS. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19KUOXatLPY) He demonstrates the aluminum table, you would simply adapt the technique to the miter gauge. There is also a My Growth Rings video showing the same thing on the cast iron table, and IIRC it includes a demo of the Carter magnetic fence. The drift information is equally applicable to rip cuts on the BS.

The side of the workpiece against the table and the side against the fence need to be square to one another. The fence and blade need to be square vertically to the table. When I was using a cast iron table I found that the miter gauge could rock a bit in the table track.

- David

[thunderbirdbat]

Use short sections of 2 x 4 to practice and verify setup. Mark the center of the board so you know if you are tracking correctly.

[AEA]

I get better results with just a slight bit more tension than the gauge on the Band Saw calls for. And I use a machinist square to make sure the table is 90% to the blade the fence also. Jointing the bottom edge of the stock to make sure it is 90% helps a lot. I agree with Garys on the 5/8 blade for resaw. I bought mine from sawblade.com for about $15. I may have just been lucky but I have no drift and I've used this blade for many cuts on hardwood and softwood both. I take the tension off when I don't think I'm going to be using for a while.

[DZIN]

Using the Carter guides, a tall and longer fence. I got lucky and got a Kreg miter gauge to fit my slots, It's fence is a bit higher and much longer. Plus, it's laterally adjustable. No drift at all. I use either the 5/8 of 1/2 from Suffolk Machinery.

[gturney]

Thanks everyone! This is all great advice and feel a bit more confident I can do this on my setup. I definitely will be doing the test cuts on scrap wood as suggested.