Bandsaw setup correctly=no blade drift!

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rmojo
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Bandsaw setup correctly=no blade drift!

Post by rmojo »

I didn't believe that a bandsaw should not have blade drift until I found this way of setting up a bandsaw. I always believed all the "experts" about blade drift. I have set up three different bandsaws following this way of setting up the blades and have no drift on any machine or blade!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

this should be taught in bandsaw 101
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Just remember that there are differences with the SS bandsaw set up.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
steve4447
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Post by steve4447 »

Great demo!...Thanks...I never saw it before...
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

Yes, the Shopsmith bandsaw blade tracking adjustments are different than any other bandsaw but the tracking principles are the same. I am using the excellent instructions in the Shopsmith Forum posts for adjusting the bandsaw blade tracking starting on 08-05-2011 by JPG40504:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... djustments

I find the instructions for adjusting the blade guide column post needs to be completely followed. I sometimes elongate the auto tracking screw hole in the mounting bracket to get the blade to very lightly track between the 2 lower guide bearings
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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idcook
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Post by idcook »

Gosh,

I love when you guys do stuff like this. JPGs bandsaw maintenance thread, including the various lines of discussion it engendered, clearly serves as an invaluable reference tool.

As someone in that thread suggests, I believe it’s high time I started printing threads of this kind and composing myself a handy "SS maintenance" binder.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:Just remember that there are differences with the SS bandsaw set up.

The difference is the rear blade guide. Makes the 'gullet' centering unnecessary. It also makes the lower blade back up adjustment to just touch the rear of the blade.(it guides the blade onto the lower wheel)

Every thing else is the same.(assuming upper wheel cant is correct)

IMHO he does a very good job there.


P.S. Oh yeah, there are those post adjustments. PITA, but critical! They insure consistency as the upper guide is moved vertically.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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rcplaneguy
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Post by rcplaneguy »

Makes me want to get out in the shop to take another look at my bandsaw! Thanks JPG!
John
teacherman
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Post by teacherman »

I'll be looking at this when my new old bandsaw arrives in about a week.
kittyboy
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Re: Bandsaw setup correctly=no blade drift!

Post by kittyboy »

you guys are hilarious
kittyboy
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Re: Bandsaw setup correctly=no blade drift!

Post by kittyboy »

gullet centering is critical. put the most tension right behind the blade. this give's your blade teeth a fighting chance at pointing the right direction when you shove a little work at em. no max tension @ center of blade behind gulletts, no talking about straight cut yet
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