Cleaning Aluminum for Restoriation

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tgamel
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Cleaning Aluminum for Restoriation

Post by tgamel »

I have seen many great restorations and repaints here on the forums, and have read a lot of the posts. Noticed some people mentioned sand or bead blasting the aluminum parts to remove the paint before repainting, but they usually do not go into detail. While I am looking to buy a older Mark V and know that eventually I will want to at least do some form of repaint and restoration.

I am pretty good with cleaning and painting steal, but never worked with aluminum. So those of you who have blasted, did you do that at home or take it somewhere and have it done? I have seen small portable sand blaster at Harbor Freight for $40.00. Not sure if anyone has used one of these or if people have used a cabinet type system or taken their parts to someone else to have them done.

Or are you using a chemical process to clean the cast aluminum parts. Just trying to learn all I can for the future...Thanks again for all the information that is shared on this site, I have enjoyed it very much so far.

Todd
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Welcome, Todd. This is a good question. I'll be watching close myself.
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stephan
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Post by stephan »

I start with a chemical stripper then use a sand blaster similar to what you mentioned but I got it from Sears. Then I wash with soap and water then a final clean with acetone. I prime it with an aluminum primer then use an enamel paint. The only issue is that the sand blaster makes a mess. Im in the process of looking for a cabinet type of sand blaster also be aware of the CFM needed for any sand blaster you buy.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I use citrustrip. It is very effective, and requires only a little 'scrubbing' in nooks and cranies. A 'secret; is to not be stingy with it. As a 'bonus', it seems to remove the alox buildup as well(that varies, and is more effective with 10E parts(different alloy?)). Water will remove any residue.
I like to use self etching primer(rustoleum) on the interior as well as exterior surfaces. Rustoleum hammered is my choice for final paint.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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lightnin
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Post by lightnin »

If your going for a smooth finish I would use a soda blaster not sand.
If your using a textured paint sand blasting will do fine.
I got Harbor freights low end soda blaster it works good enough for the occasional user.
Bruce

I didn't know what a Shopsmith was...
Three days later I owned one...
One week later I was rebuilding one...
Four months later I owned two....
Ok Ok, I'm up to four now...
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mikelst
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Post by mikelst »

I have done bead blasting on all the rebuilds I've done. I use glass bead and I have access to a bead blaster at work.
This,

Extra Fine Glass Bead Blast Media, Maximum Nominal Diameter 90 Microns, Minimum Nominal Diameter 45 Microns, US Sieve 170-325

is the material I blast with, at about 90 psi.

This is typical of the results I get.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=63341&postcount=25

(From one of my rebuilds.)
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
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tgamel
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Post by tgamel »

mikelst wrote:I have done bead blasting on all the rebuilds I've done. I use glass bead and I have access to a bead blaster at work.
This,

Extra Fine Glass Bead Blast Media, Maximum Nominal Diameter 90 Microns, Minimum Nominal Diameter 45 Microns, US Sieve 170-325 is the material I blast with, at about 90 psi.
Yea I remember those pics Mike, looks like they just came off the assembly line. You do not get much more pristine that that.

Todd
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tgamel
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Post by tgamel »

lightnin wrote:If your going for a smooth finish I would use a soda blaster not sand.
If your using a textured paint sand blasting will do fine.
I got Harbor freights low end soda blaster it works good enough for the occasional user.
I happen to really like the "hammered" paints that Rustoleum makes. I have an old table mounted drill press that is worse for wear. It's a cheap Chinese model I bought from Northern Tools more than 20 years ago. Think I might give it a makeover as it has a fair amount of rust etc. from when it was in damp storage. Could probably buy a similar one new for $80, but it would be good practice, and I hate to throw away a drill press that works, even though it was a cheap one.
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tgamel
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Post by tgamel »

[quote="JPG40504"]I use citrustrip. It is very effective, and requires only a little 'scrubbing' in nooks and cranies. A 'secret]

Yea, I have seen this, they actually carry it at Walmart, as well as the "Hammered" paints I like, although their paint selection at my location is minimal. Walmart sells the citrus stripper in 1 quart containers as well as the aerosol spray. Did you use a brush to apply the stripper or the aerosol spray. I was thinking the brush technique might be more cost effective, but the spray easier.
Todd (Canton, TX)

1962 Magna Corporation Mark V Goldie (Serial #379277); 1983 Shopsmith Mark V Model 500 (Serial #165199, w/bandsaw & joiner), Shopsmith 20" Scroll saw w/stand (Serial #030191), and Shopsmith DC3300 dust collection system. Taking my time, learning all I can and making a big mess!
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

I would just echo what JPG said. Citrustrip (I only had the spray available), elbow grease, acetone, self-etching primer, and hammered paint. Great results.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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