Box edges-need some suggestions.
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Box edges-need some suggestions.
So I'm working on this burial ashes box for somebody.
General shape/design is done but I keep looking at the top/base (light colored hard maple) and thinking I need to do something to those very square edges. I go back and forth between leaving it square as is, or softening either the horizontal edges or vertical edges but I'm not good with imagining the aesthetics. Does it look too blocky as is? The whole thing is pretty angular-so i think I would keep that general theme-if i were to soften the edges it would likely be with a 45 degree router bit, rather than something curved.
The top has a very slight bevel (might be hard to see in these images-but it runs in from the edge about 1.5" or so leaving a plateau in the middle for the Celtic/Scottish cross to be mounted on.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
b
General shape/design is done but I keep looking at the top/base (light colored hard maple) and thinking I need to do something to those very square edges. I go back and forth between leaving it square as is, or softening either the horizontal edges or vertical edges but I'm not good with imagining the aesthetics. Does it look too blocky as is? The whole thing is pretty angular-so i think I would keep that general theme-if i were to soften the edges it would likely be with a 45 degree router bit, rather than something curved.
The top has a very slight bevel (might be hard to see in these images-but it runs in from the edge about 1.5" or so leaving a plateau in the middle for the Celtic/Scottish cross to be mounted on.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
b
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
First of all it looks great to me. Well done. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I prefer more of the straight line aesthetic myself but I know some go crazy with curves and chamfering, which is fine. I like the bevel on the top. Assuming the top/bottom will be same color as center section when finished? If so, then the top with that bevel will look sharp in my opinion. May need to ever so slightly soften the corners to prevent splinters or snags on them, but I do prefer clean lines in my designs. IF you want to go with more, I would prefer chamfering personally over a curve profile on this type of project. JMO.
RF Guy
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
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Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
The cross, the box, the circular mount, and the bevel on top all look very nice so I don't think you need me second guessing your own eye, but if it was me I would consider some transition from box to base and top as well as softer edges on the top. Maybe you could match a 45° chamfer or other shape on the top with corner molding where it meets the box.
Ed from Rhode Island
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Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
Also agree that it is a fine looking piece of work. In order to help visualize what chamfered edges might look like, I tried to add some lines using Photoshop (my skills are very limited). Others who are much better at 3D modeling could do better. I didn't try to add lines on all edges, but think that might look good if done on top and bottom edges of both the top and the bottom, as well as the corners. Simply drawing some pencil lines on the actual maple might be one way to help you visualize it. Or, using some scrap 2 x 12 construction lumber, make a mock up.
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Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
https://youareforever.com/products/lexington-urn-box
Several different styles to look at. This one has a chamfered edge instead of an ogee but they have those too. Maybe the top might be thinner than the bottom i.e. 1” bottom and 3/4” top. If you chamfer the top and bottom like the example plus your already raised panel look you have that might make the look “lighter”.
I really like what you have, very nice craftsmanship. What are the dimensions ?
Several different styles to look at. This one has a chamfered edge instead of an ogee but they have those too. Maybe the top might be thinner than the bottom i.e. 1” bottom and 3/4” top. If you chamfer the top and bottom like the example plus your already raised panel look you have that might make the look “lighter”.
I really like what you have, very nice craftsmanship. What are the dimensions ?
Larry Hargrove
Rock Island, Ok
1981 Mark V 500>510>520(98922)
19?? Mark V 500>Power Pro headstock 556176 06-17-11 factory exchange program original serial unknown
1957 Mark V 500 (350389)
1953 10ER
Another 10ER
Bandsaw 2012 Jointer 2012
Bandsaw, Jointer, other goodies
Craftsman table saw, Delta 46-460 Midi lathe
SS 6” Belt Sander w/power stand 1970’s?
Rock Island, Ok
1981 Mark V 500>510>520(98922)
19?? Mark V 500>Power Pro headstock 556176 06-17-11 factory exchange program original serial unknown
1957 Mark V 500 (350389)
1953 10ER
Another 10ER
Bandsaw 2012 Jointer 2012
Bandsaw, Jointer, other goodies
Craftsman table saw, Delta 46-460 Midi lathe
SS 6” Belt Sander w/power stand 1970’s?
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
Oh that mild 45 chamfer is a nice look ! Thanks for the visual br549 !
I'm sure i can do the long edge chamfers pretty easily, but are the short edge (vertical) chamfers cut by hand ?
Someone asked about the dimensions..i forget exactly at the moment but it is near 200 cu in. I think the interior dimensions were width was 5.5, length 9.5, depth about 4.5 to 5" .
I'm sure i can do the long edge chamfers pretty easily, but are the short edge (vertical) chamfers cut by hand ?
Someone asked about the dimensions..i forget exactly at the moment but it is near 200 cu in. I think the interior dimensions were width was 5.5, length 9.5, depth about 4.5 to 5" .
Last edited by bainin on Fri Jun 02, 2023 4:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
Should be able to use the disc sander for the verticals.
Larry Hargrove
Rock Island, Ok
1981 Mark V 500>510>520(98922)
19?? Mark V 500>Power Pro headstock 556176 06-17-11 factory exchange program original serial unknown
1957 Mark V 500 (350389)
1953 10ER
Another 10ER
Bandsaw 2012 Jointer 2012
Bandsaw, Jointer, other goodies
Craftsman table saw, Delta 46-460 Midi lathe
SS 6” Belt Sander w/power stand 1970’s?
Rock Island, Ok
1981 Mark V 500>510>520(98922)
19?? Mark V 500>Power Pro headstock 556176 06-17-11 factory exchange program original serial unknown
1957 Mark V 500 (350389)
1953 10ER
Another 10ER
Bandsaw 2012 Jointer 2012
Bandsaw, Jointer, other goodies
Craftsman table saw, Delta 46-460 Midi lathe
SS 6” Belt Sander w/power stand 1970’s?
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
Alright- some more progress on those edges.
I tried the full (top and bottom 45s) on a scrap piece. It wasn't 100% to my liking, but I think one 45 bevel on both the base and cover is a start which I can add further to later if I want but I think the single bevels look pretty good-shown in 2nd image.
Also working on the interior of the top which has a slot in it so the top sits down snug on the box sides. I used a forstner bit in drill press mode to hog out most of it, then hand chisel the edges a bit, then finally overhead router to clean the edges some. The thru holes will be for dowels to mount the circle/cross ornament to the top.
My intention is to hide the poke holes from the forstner work with some mitered walnut veneer which will sit down in the slot.
b
I tried the full (top and bottom 45s) on a scrap piece. It wasn't 100% to my liking, but I think one 45 bevel on both the base and cover is a start which I can add further to later if I want but I think the single bevels look pretty good-shown in 2nd image.
Also working on the interior of the top which has a slot in it so the top sits down snug on the box sides. I used a forstner bit in drill press mode to hog out most of it, then hand chisel the edges a bit, then finally overhead router to clean the edges some. The thru holes will be for dowels to mount the circle/cross ornament to the top.
My intention is to hide the poke holes from the forstner work with some mitered walnut veneer which will sit down in the slot.
b
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
Alright-now I'm getting close to done I think. Decided on double bevel on cover with single bevel on base.
Interior base image also done.
Cross is dowel mounted thru top and because I screwed up the holes, I hid them with some walnut "dimes" on the inside.
The top/base used a light pecan stain to bring some warmth to the hard maple which
looked way too white. The bocolo alves (sp? box sides) just had wipe on poly.
Half lap miter joints for the box (if i recall the name correctly)
b
Interior base image also done.
Cross is dowel mounted thru top and because I screwed up the holes, I hid them with some walnut "dimes" on the inside.
The top/base used a light pecan stain to bring some warmth to the hard maple which
looked way too white. The bocolo alves (sp? box sides) just had wipe on poly.
Half lap miter joints for the box (if i recall the name correctly)
b
Re: Box edges-need some suggestions.
That is absolutely beautiful. Great job!!