first attempt at makin a lamp
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first attempt at makin a lamp
hi all i bought a used mark 5 and just recently got it recondiditioned. i have a few winter kill Ponderosa timbers on my property that have been dead for about a year. the problem is when i cut off a length of it to lathe into a lamp it ends up splitting on me. Any body have any suggestions on how i can treat the wood prior to shapping it so it wont split?
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flashbacpt
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- Location: Concord, Ca.
First Attempt at making a lamp
Some bad news ...... Normally, you want to seal the wood ASAP when the tree comes down. Depending on where you live, the wood starts drying out from the center (Pith Area),and outer edge area, causing cracks and splits. With a tree that has been down for a year, it is going to be hard to find a good solid section.
There are several types of wood sealers, including paint primers, on the market. Check out your wood turning suppliers. Also, add a Moisture Meter to your arsenal. A 6-8% moisture reading is a strong indicator that your wood is ready for turning.
For the future....Plan ahead! Have a good supply of wood sealer at the ready, so when a tree comes down, you can section it, seal the ends (fresh cut) and set aside for 6 months or more depending on where you live, and the type of tree.
If you are really planning ahead....after you cut sections, then cut some off each side, and then cut the section down the middle, which will eliminate some of the pith area, and then seal all sides of the wood, setting it aside for a few months.
Or.....after doing the above, use a compass and draw a circle. Then, cut out the circle on the bandsaw, and then seal the wood. You now have blanks for bowls that can be placed on the lathe, roughed shape into bowls, (turning green wood), and then sealed again, and set aside for a few months before you bring it back to the lathe for the final turning and finishing.
For your lamp project, the process is similar, You section the tree for the size of the lamp, plus several inches more, and then seal the wood, coming back several months down the road.
The is nothing finer than using free wood, but you have to take the necessary steps to prevent it from cracking, splitting, and decaying. Otherwise, you are left with buying wood blanks which are very expensive.
Good Luck!
FlashbacPT
John
There are several types of wood sealers, including paint primers, on the market. Check out your wood turning suppliers. Also, add a Moisture Meter to your arsenal. A 6-8% moisture reading is a strong indicator that your wood is ready for turning.
For the future....Plan ahead! Have a good supply of wood sealer at the ready, so when a tree comes down, you can section it, seal the ends (fresh cut) and set aside for 6 months or more depending on where you live, and the type of tree.
If you are really planning ahead....after you cut sections, then cut some off each side, and then cut the section down the middle, which will eliminate some of the pith area, and then seal all sides of the wood, setting it aside for a few months.
Or.....after doing the above, use a compass and draw a circle. Then, cut out the circle on the bandsaw, and then seal the wood. You now have blanks for bowls that can be placed on the lathe, roughed shape into bowls, (turning green wood), and then sealed again, and set aside for a few months before you bring it back to the lathe for the final turning and finishing.
For your lamp project, the process is similar, You section the tree for the size of the lamp, plus several inches more, and then seal the wood, coming back several months down the road.
The is nothing finer than using free wood, but you have to take the necessary steps to prevent it from cracking, splitting, and decaying. Otherwise, you are left with buying wood blanks which are very expensive.
Good Luck!
FlashbacPT
John
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woodburner
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Sorry to here about your problems with your turning. You can try and dry the wood as suggested in the above comments, but I can tell you from 20 years of woodturning experience, the problem is the type of wood itself.
Most pinewoods are not suitable for turning most projects, and Ponderosa pine falls into that catagory. You saw the first obvious reason, it cracks easily as you turn it and as it dries. Pine is considered a soft wood and very porous, with the fibers being large, and the growth rings not being very dense (unless it is an old growth tree) which doesn't make it a very good candidate for turning.
Hardwoods are considered the best woods for turning, along with what are called soft-hardwoods (maple, walnut, and fruitwoods are good examples of this type of wood). These types of wood dry slower and more evenly, keeping cracking to a minimum or no cracking at all in most cases. The fibers in these woods are smaller and denser, and the growth rings are much more compact than average pine.
You can try to apply a sealer to the wood as suggested earlier and allow it to dry for a while (length of time will depend on the size of the blank). But if the tree has been down for a while, it is probably to late for this. Also, sealing pine this way usually doesn't prevent it from cracking on the lathe. It's just the nature of this type of wood.
Ask any well-experienced woodturner, and they will tell you to stay away from pinewood.
Most pinewoods are not suitable for turning most projects, and Ponderosa pine falls into that catagory. You saw the first obvious reason, it cracks easily as you turn it and as it dries. Pine is considered a soft wood and very porous, with the fibers being large, and the growth rings not being very dense (unless it is an old growth tree) which doesn't make it a very good candidate for turning.
Hardwoods are considered the best woods for turning, along with what are called soft-hardwoods (maple, walnut, and fruitwoods are good examples of this type of wood). These types of wood dry slower and more evenly, keeping cracking to a minimum or no cracking at all in most cases. The fibers in these woods are smaller and denser, and the growth rings are much more compact than average pine.
You can try to apply a sealer to the wood as suggested earlier and allow it to dry for a while (length of time will depend on the size of the blank). But if the tree has been down for a while, it is probably to late for this. Also, sealing pine this way usually doesn't prevent it from cracking on the lathe. It's just the nature of this type of wood.
Ask any well-experienced woodturner, and they will tell you to stay away from pinewood.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
Woodburner:o
I agree that pine is not a viable choice for turning. However when pushed hard enough I have done so. As I identify a crack I stabilize the wood either with CA glue or a two part epoxy. This method generally leaves some cracks showing and has still been known to fail and have the blank fly apart. If you move ahead a couple of precautions to follow would include a safety shield and safety glasses between you and the project. I would also turn at a slow speed and use extra care to be gentle when approaching the blank with turning tools. Tools must be scary sharp (I love that term yet confess I don't believe such a state of sharpness really exists). Also turn off the lathe frequently to check for new cracks. Good luck and be safe. fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.