mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[cocacola1012]

I would say that from a safety and accuracy standpoint on small pieces like this a router is a much better idea. Use it upside down in a router table or just up through a piece of plywood. As I said I don't use dadoes much, by choice, and may be biased.Paul M

Would I be able to just mount the router upside down to a piece of plywood. then stick the plywood clamped to two saw horses as a router table?

[dusty]

Would I be able to just mount the router upside down to a piece of plywood. then stick the plywood clamped to two saw horses as a router table?

Absolutely. That would not be the most elegant router table but it would certainly work. Really that is all a router table is.

The fence you use might be a slightly different issue but can be resolved in much the same way.

[shipwright]

The usual "universal fence" for the above deluxe router table is a straight strip of 3/4" plywood and two little C clamps. It's as accurate as you are.

Paul M

[mickyd]

I wanted to link out to the great thread going on about dado blades. The info there is useful for anyone reading this thread in the future.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=5069

Also, any comments on my post where I asked:

Is a $22 Harbor Freight dado out of the question??:o

[dusty]

I wanted to link out to the great thread going on about dado blades. The info there is useful for anyone reading this thread in the future.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=5069

Also, any comments on my post where I asked:

Is a $22 Harbor Freight dado out of the question??:o

The description of this dado set from Harbor Freight sounds almost identical to same for my Freud set. The difference, if there is any, will be in how long those carbide tips remain sharp and how well they are ground (to produce a flat, smooth bottom).

Given the price, I would be hard pressed to advise against them but I would challenge you to not expect them to last as long as the Freud set would and don't bother to look for country of origin.

[charlese]

The description of this dado set from Harbor Freight sounds almost identical to same for my Freud set. The difference, if there is any, will be in how long those carbide tips remain sharp and how well they are ground (to produce a flat, smooth bottom).

Don't forget the quality of carbide! All carbide is not the same hardness, brittleness, purity.

[------------------------]

[quote="charlese"]Mike
Some of the pieces are pretty small. Where duplicate parts are used, it would be a good idea to saw the dados/grooves on larger pieces and then slice off the smaller ones. For example; where the different sized lanterns all have a rabbet on the top - you could make one rabbet on a wider piece and then rip to make separate pieces, then cut to size.

I would agree with this. Use the router table or table saw to groove large pieces and cut apart with your jig saw. While you are at it you could cut your small rails and stiles to 1/2" thickness with you jig saw
Mark

[mickyd]

[quote="mark-b"]Mike
Some of the pieces are pretty small. Where duplicate parts are used, it would be a good idea to saw the dados/grooves on larger pieces and then slice off the smaller ones. For example]
As time goes on, I too wonder why they have you working on 1 stile and rail piece at a time. Why would the jig that they have you create only accommodate 1 piece vs. a wider piece that would then be cut into individual pieces? Can anyone answer that?

Why do you suggest using the jigsaw to cut the parts to width vs. using the table saw? My thinking is on the table saw, the miter gage / fence can be used to keep cuts straight and square.

[dusty]

As time goes on, I too wonder why they have you working on 1 stile and rail piece at a time. Why would the jig that they have you create only accommodate 1 piece vs. a wider piece that would then be cut into individual pieces? Can anyone answer that?

Why do you suggest using the jigsaw to cut the parts to width vs. using the table saw? My thinking is on the table saw, the miter gage / fence can be used to keep cuts straight and square.

One advantage that I see in using the jig saw is the reduced tendency for tearout. I don't do well with the jig saw though when wanting to cut a straight line.

[robinson46176]

As time goes on, I too wonder why they have you working on 1 stile and rail piece at a time. Why would the jig that they have you create only accommodate 1 piece vs. a wider piece that would then be cut into individual pieces? Can anyone answer that?

I can't speak with any authority in this particular case but it has been my experience over the years that many wood projects are designed to consume as much time as possible rather than to produce a project with any speed or ease at all.
Even in retirement I stay very busy and struggle to get even a little time for each of my hobbies. When I want to make something I want to walk in the shop and "gitter-done"... Everywhere I look I have hundreds and hundreds of jobs shouting "do me next". I have over 20 buildings of one kind or the other and everyone of them needs something. I have fences that need building, repairing and in a few cases tearing out. I have a half dozen writing projects in the works, some immediate, some long term projects. The list goes on and on.
On the other hand I have known a lot of folks who even when they were working for a living came home after work and had nothing to do... After retirement their main goal is to use up time hopefully doing something pleasant. And sometimes hiding from their spouse a little... Wood working can fill that need especially if you do almost everything slowly and inefficiently.
Lots of projects are planned around using time.
I'm not saying that it is a bad thing, just not for me. I have too many other things to do.