thainglo wrote:What did you use in the quill to mount to the tube you were polishing? I've been using pipe caps with a hand drill that were pretty good, but not always perfect.
Thanks!
Matt
It's an expansion plug, or marine plug, or freeze plug with a hex coupler added and that is held with the drill chuck. The 1-1/2" fit my tubes perfectly.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Great to see your out of the extended Arctic blast and able to get outside and get some work done. I sure am glad I don't have any rusty tubes to worry about anymore. I've had it with rust removal.
Great shot looking down the length of your headstock. Has a military kind of look to it. Thanks for the update!
I have to comment that the 'polishing' operation is much faster/easier if the rust has been removed first! The evaporust/sewer pipe method has the advantage of removing the rust from inside as well and the evaporust dried on the inside acts as a rust preventative.
BTW the 10 with speed changer runs slower(425) than the mark 5/V(700). The 10 slow speed without speed changer is about 875 rpm.
A vertical restraint on the tube above the casters would be prudent, but the freeze plug will accommodate slight mis-alignment. The weight of the tube is probably adequate to hold it there.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
wannabewoodworker wrote:Heath,
How is the rebuild coming??? I have one set of casters completely apart and cleaned/polished. They don't look anything like the one JPG posted but considering they were in horrible rusty shape they look sweeeeet now. I was able to salvage them completely. I also was able to polish the mounts to a very bright chrome shine like the ones in JPG's pic. I thought having them bright and shiny would be more appealing than painted and looking at JPG's pic I am glad I did that as they do look real nice contrasting the legs. I have to ship off the rest of my body parts to the dry stripping place down the street as i got tired of trying to strip the paint off everything manually. Just too labor intensive for my tastes and some of the nooks and crannies I just can't get to with anything useful so I threw in the towel and will pay to have them stripped. At least when i get them back all I have to do is prime them and paint them. I am itching to put this thing back together but it is going to be a little while yet.
I am pretty sure I have a 3/4 HP motor and I have not decided whether I should try and get a fleabay 1 1/8 HP motor or stick with the 3/4 HP??? Anyone have any opinions on this????
The rebuild is coming great!
I actually painted my caster mounting brackets. If I had done the other aluminum polishing first, I probably would have decided to polish them as well, but I didn't want to re-strip them so what's done is done. Plus, I didn't spend a ton of time sanding all the rust pits out of the bars and thought brightly polished mounting brackets would bring too much attention to the ugly bars!
Paint stripping is a PITA, but I found Citrustrip works GREAT. I sprayed it on liberally, then left it overnight to do it's thing. A putty knife and a paint stripping pad (looked a lot like a Scotch-Brite pad) dipped in acetone took the old paint right off. In fact, sometimes I didn't even use that. Sometimes, I just washed the Citrustrip and old paint off with the water hose.
Another new product I've been using is Boeshield T-9. It's a rust preventative developed by Boeing. I sprayed it on parts that might be subject to rust but are out of reach or eyesight and might not receive periodic maintenance. Parts like the threaded rods the lock wedges are on, the square rod for the table height adjustment assembly, the springs and plungers on the casters, etc. I'm interested to see how well the Boeshield protects.
This is my first Mark 5 that I'm rebuilding and I've never even used its 1 1/8 HP motor. So I don't know what using it is like compared to the 3/4 HP motor. I say, if it runs fine, use it for a while and if you find yourself wishing you had more power, then do the upgrade.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
I have a question about it, though. I have it set so "Fast" stops at the right place. The belt is about 1/16th in from the lip of the sheaves. But when I slow it down, the dial goes past "Slow" all the way to "Fast" again. Between the "Slow" mark and were the dial finally stops at the "Fast" mark, I can't tell that the speed is actually changing. As I'm slowing it down, I can hear the change, but once I get to the "Slow" mark and continue on to the "Fast" mark, I have no sense or indication that the speed is actually continuing to change.
What could be wrong?
Oh, and here's a pic I took this evening:
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
The excess 'slow' range is not unusual. As you noticed, very little(if any) change occurs when past 'slow'. So stop at slow.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:The excess 'slow' range is not unusual. As you noticed, very little(if any) change occurs when past 'slow'. So stop at slow.
That's good to know! I was worried I had done something wrong.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
JPG40504 wrote:The excess 'slow' range is not unusual. As you noticed, very little(if any) change occurs when past 'slow'. So stop at slow.
Is this because the sheaves (which control speed changes by controlling pulley ratios) can be moved in and out just so far -OR- are there other limiting factors.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Thanks for the update!
Is this because the sheaves (which control speed changes by controlling pulley ratios) can be moved in and out just so far -OR- are there other limiting factors.
