For a majority of my sanding, I performed it either with my sander clamped into a bench vise as shown here, with sander upside down on lap holding with one hand, or for tight spots, I did it by hand with sandpaper on glass.heathicus wrote:I just used a 220 grit pad on a 5" random orbit sander. For the majority of the work, I clamped the handle to my work surface. For some of it, I needed to hold the handle in one hand and the sander in the other. The small areas actually aren't too bad on this handle. The sanding pad had a very slight overhang (maybe 1/16") around the edge of the sander. I was able to get that overhang to conform to some of the tighter curves.
Restoration Progress On My 1986 Gray
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
- mickyd
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Mike, what will the buffer wheels and compound do to paint? I was thinking about painting some of the recessed areas of the lock handles (such as the "Feed Stop" and "Quill Lock" labels, but not the grid pattern - that might be a little much). Sanding would leave the paint in the recessed areas, but would the buffer wheels and compound be too abrasive for the paint?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am
I'm so close, yet so far away...mark-b wrote:I forsee a complete restoration in Heath's future:)
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Electrolysis question
This may be a stupid question. MickyD, you might can answer this one. I've happened upon some scrap iron that might be good anode material in an electrolysis bath. But, it is covered with paint. Will the paint on the anode interfere with the process? Should I remove the paint (or at least a good bit of it to expose plenty of bare iron) first?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
The paint will need to be removed. It will act as an insulator greatly reducing or preventing the electron transfer required for the operation.
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
I did some big tractor brake assemblies in a 55 gallon plastic drum and I used a chrome plated rod (maybe 5/8" and 3' long). It worked great. great connection but it stayed clean. The process took a lot of the paint off of the assemblies.
I was using a 6 amp charger and baking soda. The assemblies were suspended from a stick across the top of the barrel with good old baling wire.
I was using a 6 amp charger and baking soda. The assemblies were suspended from a stick across the top of the barrel with good old baling wire.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
My little battery charger has been unreliable for electrolysis, so I'm converting a PC power supply into a "lab" power supply and plan to use it. I have quite a few of those PC power supplies laying around that will never be used for anything. Might as well give it a shot and see what happens.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- mickyd
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
I think it would be OK. It will make the paint in the recess filthy but soap and water bath will clean it up. Worse case is it boogers it up and you have to strip and repaint after final polish.heathicus wrote:Mike, what will the buffer wheels and compound do to paint? I was thinking about painting some of the recessed areas of the lock handles (such as the "Feed Stop" and "Quill Lock" labels, but not the grid pattern - that might be a little much). Sanding would leave the paint in the recessed areas, but would the buffer wheels and compound be too abrasive for the paint?
Remove the paint first. Use the electrolysis bath to do it. Hook up the negative to the scrap metal and leave overnight. Lazy man's paint remover.heathicus wrote:This may be a stupid question. MickyD, you might can answer this one. I've happened upon some scrap iron that might be good anode material in an electrolysis bath. But, it is covered with paint. Will the paint on the anode interfere with the process? Should I remove the paint (or at least a good bit of it to expose plenty of bare iron) first?
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am