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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:59 pm
by ------------------------
Worst case you could remove the flat head screw and drill a 1/32" or smaller hole and get in behind it to lube and tap it out.

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:01 pm
by ------------------------
Pin is solid/not hollow

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:38 pm
by mickyd
Perfect photo Mark. I see now what I have to work with. I am wondering if the button is in the bottom out position now or if it could be tapped to go in a little further to break the bond. If it is bottomed out already, and the bond can't be broken, I think the best bet will be to drill in from the backside and try to tunk it out.

Do you think it's bottomed out already?

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:48 pm
by ------------------------
I dont think it is bottomed out. I think it can go down at least 3/32"
Mark
Mine bottomed out
[ATTACH]7445[/ATTACH]

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:51 pm
by mickyd
If I have to drill and try to tunk it out, I'll probably drill the hole from the spherical tip side and wherever it comes out in the other end will then be the pilot hole for going in with a little larger drill. That way I'm sure not to miss the button and/or drill though the spring.

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:11 pm
by JPG
mickyd wrote:If I have to drill and try to tunk it out, I'll probably drill the hole from the spherical tip side and wherever it comes out in the other end will then be the pilot hole for going in with a little larger drill. That way I'm sure not to miss the button and/or drill though the spring.

K1 and Acetone mixture worked quite fast and quite well today busting loose 10E way tubes from the 'hinge' end casting. They had not been removed in over 60 yrs! Raised to vertical poured concoction on/around casting, tube 'crack'. It penetrated through to the opposite end in less than 5 minutes. About 3 raps and it moved. Two more raps and the tube flew out of the casting! Tube had a little rust, but not much.(2-3 inches, not severe).

I have a new 'formula' rust buster!;)

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:19 pm
by mickyd
JPG40504 wrote:K1 and Acetone mixture worked quite fast and quite well today busting loose 10E way tubes from the 'hinge' end casting.
And the ratio is............

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:43 am
by mickyd
Wanted……ER10 miter gage indicator….

The agony of defeat. Two days submerged in Kroil, tapping, soaking, tapping, soaking. No luck getting the indicator button unstuck. Next process was putting some heat to it. DON’T unless you are 100% familiar with heating this relatively small piece of metal. The heat from the propane torch grossly deformed the piece.
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[ATTACH]7464[/ATTACH]
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I don’t feel I abused the heat from propane torch. I was evenly heating the piece and I felt the pliers that I was using start to close. I stopped immediately and looked at the piece and I could see where the pliers were digging in. Then I looked dead on at the face with the indicator button and saw where the top actually collapsed. I’m not sure if this piece is aluminum. Possibly white metal??

Anyway….disgusted!!

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:47 am
by nuhobby
Mike,
Don't despair, dude! I just looked at the whole thread again, and you've done SO much.
I vote that you (eventually) make your own custom brass indicator. But start making sawdust now..... wood projects tend to have their own mistakes which require innovation along the way. It's good perspective on life, if you think about it.

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:34 am
by heathicus
Dadgum, Mike, that sucks! :eek: