New Shopsmith Owner

[JPG]

Use them both.

[chapmanruss]

I like the Shopsmith laundry day. I have had a few of those myself.

You already have a guide for the distance between the holes needed to attach the Hinge Plate to the Jointer. It is the Hinge Plate itself. The Hinge Plate would have to be centered to either side of the Cutter Head protrusion on the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting. Even if you are a fraction of an inch off having it centered it really would not matter. I would have to check the distance of the hole center line above the bottom edge of the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting. From the picture you can see the holes are not that far above the bottom edge and probably no more than the diameter of the hole. I'll try to remember to check that when I go into the shop today.

Drilling your own mounting holes in the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting would allow you to use any Magna/Shopsmith Jointer made from the change to the Model 620-C to a current one. The only thing the Jointer cannot have is the Dust Collection Chute found on newer models and upgraded Jointers.

Now a word of caution: The ears on the Hinge Plate where it attaches to the Jointer can be broken off if not carefully handled. I do not recommend setting down the Jointer with the Hinge Plate attached to it and resting on the Hinge Plate. Although the Hinge Plate is a fairly strong casting the Jointer is heavy and accidently dropping it could damage it. I do not have my restored Model 4E Jointer attached to my Model 10ER all of the time but instead keep it on a stand I made for it. The Hinge Plate is attached and goes through a slot in the stand which you can see in the 1st picture below.

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Jointer and Jig Saw stands.jpg (113 KiB) Viewed 4322 times

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Below is my Model 4E Jointer and Model A-34 Jig Saw on the stands

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Jointer and Jig Saw on stands.jpg (95.82 KiB) Viewed 4322 times

[Restore]

JPG, Bought the star washers today & treated them to a dielectric grease bath before install, that should solve the grounding wire issue without sacrificing my new shinny paint, thanks for the suggestion.

Russ, I like the stand Idea for Jointer/Jigsaw storage but for now that will need to wait as I am out of space for now anyway, so was thinking about using your concept but for me building some type of storage under the SS table would be a better fit. Glad you mentioned the jointer mounting ears as I thought that jointer looked pretty darn heavy for those ears, oh and thanks to the pic I now know that taped hole on top of the jigsaw is for the lamp that I do not have yet.

If you get a chance to post the hole dimensions that would be great as even if I don’t use them for this project they will be there for future possibilities.

Currently I am waiting for Skip to send me new belts and pullies with the SPT diver option so I can make some chips, my wife has a standing order in for any bowls I can make her, I ordered a pulley with the SPT driver just in case he can find a new supplier for the SPT mount adapter he sells, sure hoping he can find one as that would give me a LOT more options.

I don’t want to jinx myself but you didn’t hear it from me that my Chiropractor bought his Grandfathers home and you have seen all the classic car Barn finds lately….well in the over stuffed barn he thinks there is an SS in there and I don’t mean SS Chevelle…Wish me luck as I would love to put together from any sources a complete fully optioned original machine, in Midnight Blue Satin of course ;->

[Restore]

Restoring this classic machine has been a fun & satisfying project that is almost complete, that headstock was really the only part that intimidated me a bit but with all the support from this board I got through it and feel the machine will be rock solid for many years of projects.

Noticing spare/extra parts starting to pile up and kind of thinking about a second machine to restore that I can leave setup for particular operations at some point when I have a dedicated shop….soooo is this how the SS addiction begins?

The last part to restore is the jigsaw, so far it looks like it’s in pretty good shape except for the casting at the end of the hold down guide, it is full of fractures and just disintegrating, is this a common problem and is there a source to get a replacement?

PXL_20231015_121502593.jpg (157.87 KiB) Viewed 4272 times

Question: Installing the Speed changer handle with new springs & nuts today but noticed some SS literature shows the handle installed on left and right of the ears, which is correct/better? The left side would give more space between it and the headstock lock but on the right would put it closer to the centerline of rotation on the ways.

[jsburger]

Russ will correct me if I am wrong but, as I remember it was originally on the right in the older literature and at some point Magna changed it to the left. As you say it give more clearance with the lock handle that way and is probably why Magna changed it. I have all of mine on the left.

[chapmanruss]

John is correct and having the crank outboard from the Headstock provides more clearance from the Headstock Lock.

I have a Jig Saw Hold Down Support Assembly that looks very similar and "crumbling" like yours. Jig Saw parts have to be found used. They are out there from time to time, so you need to have patience.

The holes for the Jointer to attach the Hinge Plate to are 5-1/2" between the center line of the holes, 3/16" from the bottom to the center line of the holes and are 9/32" in diameter for the 1/4" bolts. I would use the Hinge Plate as a guide for the distance between the holes when marking them for drilling.

As I mentioned in my previous post the Hinge Plate can be broken. Below is an example from the Hinge Plate I got with my recent purchase of a Model 10ER with the complete Jointer setup. Unfortunately this Hinge Plate is not usable. The fracture is completely through on the one and almost through on the other.

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Hinge Plate.jpg (172.88 KiB) Viewed 4250 times

[jsburger]

Russ,

"Unfortunately this Hinge Plate is not usable. The fracture is completely through on the one and almost through on the other."

Cast iron can be brazed. If done properly the repair will be as strong if not stronger than the original. If you have all the pieces I would not discard it. As you know they are very rare. I would certainly have it fixed if it were me.

[Restore]

Russ, Thanks for the dimensions, I printed and saved with my SS manuals.

That's disappointing news that there is no replacement for the jigsaw hold down, guess that’s the game when dealing with antique machinery, thinking about trying some penetrating epoxy to stabilize the part for now till a replacement comes my way, it would probably work better if I had a vacuum chamber.

[Restore]

Is this the correct jointer belt replacement, FHP 4L330 33' x .50' ? it is the same style Skip sold me for my drive belts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004E ... X0DER&th=1

[chapmanruss]

Don't worry John, I do not plan on discarding it. Due to the way it attaches to the Jointer there is plenty of area available to repair it. I have a number of "broken" Shopsmith parts I have kept in the hopes of repairing them. They range from plastic to aluminum to cast iron.

For the Jointer the Belt I use is a 4L320 and the Jointer Pulley is an 1-3/4". The manuals simply list the Belt and Pulley without a size.