New Shopsmith Owner

[chapmanruss]

Nice find on the 1st edition book Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone.

The Spacer Ring of the Drive Sleeve Assembly, at most, should only "touch" the Bearings. When I reassemble Drive Sleeve Assemblies the Spacer Ring can still be rotated without moving the Bearing's outside race. Excessive pressure could cause problems. This may be the stiffness you are experiencing if the outer (last on, first off) Bearing is pressed/driven too far onto the Drive Shaft. The Spacer Ring keeps the Drive Sleeve Assembly in the Headstock with the Set Screw tightened against it and being in-between the Bearings. If it is a problem, you could try to disassemble and reassemble the Drive Sleeve Assembly. Do understand that removing the Bearings will put pressure on only the outside race of the outer Bearing during removal and could damage the Bearing if it is not already damaged.

Your restoration is looking great.

[Restore]

Chapmanruss,
Thank you for the help, what you are saying makes perfect sense, unfortunately the video I watched on replacing those bearings showed the second bearing being driven onto the spacer and after watching it again he mentions the bearing being tight at the end

As you mentioned the bearings are most likely damaged but what do you think about using a bearing puller to get them back off without further damage and then try to reinstall them correctly, maybe I get lucky...do you have a specific bearing puller that you would recommend?
Stew

[Restore]

Now that I think about it sitting in my glider sipping a Deep Eddy's Lime vodka I can't remove both bearings without at least damaging the top bearing, soooo time to order new bearings and start over.

Skip did a nice Youtube video for the spindle bearing replacements, maybe we can talk him into doing one for the drive shaft bearings also to help out future restoration projects.

[Restore]

Oops sorry Chapmanruss you already mentioned that the top bearing would be damaged during removal.

[chapmanruss]

I use a press to remove and install bearings on both the Drive Sleeve Assembly and the Quill. Since I am removing old Bearings to replace them, I am not concerned about possibly damaging them. Sorry not much help on a recommendation of a bearing puller.

[DLB]

I use a Harbor Freight (Pittsburgh brand) bearing separator and puller set. One of the two or so HF tools I own that I actually like. I'm not a Model 10 guy, but the set works on all things Mark 5/V/7 in my experience. I bought it on a recommendation in another thread. It can also be used to install most bearings with the addition of adapters to ensure you are only pressing the correct (usually inner for SS) race. The set currently runs $55 in my area.

- David

[edma194]

Removing bearings has always been tougher for me than installing them. The drive assemble is too long for my vice but I used the Maxi-clamp set to slowly finish pressing a bearing onto a similar sized armature in a miter saw.

[Restore]

I have to say discovering this amazing SS community is like stumbling across a cult living next door that you had no idea was there.

Thanks for the help and compliments on my project so far, I am very much enjoying the restoration process, it’s been kind of therapy for me after two tough years as a care giver for my late mother in-law, my wife’s unexpected therapy is she wrote a few children’s books and is now learning the process of self-publishing them…We are polar opposites I am a retired Aerospace machinist who works with angles and she is artistic working with curves, somehow we make it work :->
Question: Does anyone have a splitter for the 10ER they are willing to part with or know where I might locate one as my machine is missing that one part?

[JPG]

Splitter ????

[jsburger]

It is the bracket that mounts the upper blade guard ti the table that acts as a splitter. I guess you could use it without the blade guard. The blade guard and bracket show up from time to time on eBay. Not sure if I have ever seen just the bracket.