Forest Saw Blades

[charlese]

I've been following this discussion with interest. So far I have been very pleased with Shopsmith provided blades. I understand some of the earlier carbide tipped blades were made by Freud (sp?) for Shopsmith. The thin kerfs I have were made by Amana (courtesy of Nick). They all have worked just super for me.

BTW - My first blade in my SS biscuit cutter threw a tooth for no good reason. Don't know who made this, but Shopsmith replaced it for me at no cost. It also, now works just fine!

Like said earlier, someday I may get a Forrester for comparison, but someone will have to get it for me as a gift. It's on the list!

[Ed in Tampa]

Rieble
Evidently I didn't make myself clear.

I'm not disputing the fact that there is a difference between $50 and $100 dollar blades, not at all. Nor am I disputing the fact the Forrester ll perhaps is the world's finest blade. Nor am I talking about someone that insists on having the best buying the best.

All I'm saying is when the difference between say $75 blade and $114 blade comes down to what can only be seen under a magnifing glass I personally question if the difference is worth the money.

To take my example to the extremes let us say a $50 blade cuts like a chains saw and $100 blade cuts like wood that has been sheared with a super sharp knife. Then there is a real difference and to me a real reason to buy the more expensive blade.

However when the difference comes down to something that is only detectable with a trained eye and magnifing power I personally can not justify the added cost. Again that is me personally, I can not justify the add cost.

As for my blade and sharping comment, I did not mean to suggest I created the EIT blade. I used the blade and was very very happy with it. When it got dull I took it to my sharpener and he sharpened it. Again I was very very happy. To the best of my understanding he did not change the blade grind that I can detect but I do know the sides of the teeth were ground. I believe that is how he mimimizes run out should there be any. To me a good sharpening makes a good blade.

Too many woodworkers are using dull blades and keep buying up, looking for the perfect cut when in fact all they need is the blade they are using to be sharpened. That is what I was trying to say. Again I wasn't pertending to invent a new grind or blade geometery. I'm sorry if I gave that impression.

We each have to decide where we want to spend our money and how much we want to spend. I was just trying to say don't get caught up in the ad hype and find out the only difference between what you had and what you bought was a very very small improvement in cut quality. Again if you have to have the best then buy the best. To me sawing is nothing more that dimensioning the wood to approximate size I will be using, after I dimension it I'm not finished with it. I usually joint, plane, sand or rout it.

Again Reible I did not dispute what you said in any fashion nor was I challenging your information. I was just offering my cheapskates view on the subject.
Ed

[reible]

After thinking about all that has been written I don't think we ever got into the different blade types... My posting has been about Combo blades, one that are general use type that can rip as well as crosscut. The idea is to have a single blade on the saw and do everything with it. This blade is a compromise, it does rip and it does crosscut but it is not the best blade at either. If you want to make some "better" cuts you are still better off going to a blade designed to do type of cut. So get a good crosscut blade, a good rip blade and then start thinking about a comb blade. If you cut enough laminate get a blade for it, same with other materials. Got a miter saw or maybe a RAS, they take different blade then table saws...

I'm not sure I made that clear before so I hope I have now.

Ed

[shydragon]

Wow, with all that I seemed to have stirred up, makes me want to never ask the simple question in post #1.

[dusty]

Please don't hesitate to ask those "simple questions". These discussions are what makes the forum worth visiting.

There is always a pot about ready to boil.

The important question, shydragon - Did you get a satisfactory answer to your question.

[reible]

So I guess we need to update the forum rules:

1) You don't tug on superman's cape

2) You don't spit into the wind

3) You don't pull the mask of the ol' lone ranger

4) And you don't mess around with asking blade questions

There now, all taken care of.

Ed

Wow, with all that I seemed to have stirred up, makes me want to never ask the simple question in post #1.

[charlese]

Hi, Pat! You didn't cause all of the postings! These choices, and opinions have been around for a long time. We just need a catalyst to get them to the surface. Sometimes, we will go off into tangents to talk about one of our favorite choices and biases Sometimes it's like herding geese, but this thread has kept of a real straight course.

We Love it!!:D

[Ed in Tampa]

And now everyone understands why there is so many flavors of Ice Cream and so many different brands. If we all liked Ben and Jerry's Chocolate or Aunt Martha's home made Vanilla we would only need one kind.

Some people want Ice Cream, some people only want churned Ice Cream, and others only want home churned Ice Cream and some only want premium Ice Cream.

Each declares resolutely that their's is the best and therefore the only logical choice. I don't know what this all accomplished other than I'm thinking I want a bowl of Ice Cream..... Or should I have a cone? Sugar or Waffle? with sprinkles or without, should it be dipped or not? Let see what does the magazine say?

There is no one blade that is 'the end all be all of saw blades'. You must make your choice wisely because it is your money that your spending and it is ad-mans job to convince you theirs is the best.

[Bruce]

The referenced site has grown/improved quite a bit since I visited last. It owould be easy to miss something.

Pat, you said you wanted a Forrest thin kerk with a 1 1/4" bore. Forrest offers what you want (10407100-S). Notice that no dampener is recommended for this blade but there is a recommendation just three blades down in the table.

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/c ... er_II.html

Also, notice that Forrest does not offer a stiffener with 1 1/4" bore. Now I know you can get them. I spoke with a Forrest rep at the Woodworking Show here a couple weeks ago. She told me they could do a special bore if I wanted one.

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/c ... eners.html

They recommend the stiffener with 5/8" bore because they aren't as stiff as one with a 1 1/4" bore. Also, I think a 5/8" arbor is a smaller outer diameter on most saws than the 5/8" Shopsmith arbor. The larger Shopsmith arbor adds stiffness like a stiffener would, imho.

Bruce

[shydragon]

I found this in the woodnet forum. I thought you all might be interested in the findings.

http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Table_Saw_Blade_Comparisons