Shopsmith Forums

I have seen broken Table Riser Bars before which also surprises me that they get broken. I have also seen them welded or brazed back together. Remember to always loosen the two table post lock knobs on the carriage before turning the crank to raise or lower the table height.

As for the hole behind the Logo/Serial Number Plate the later manuals refer to it for access to the switch. This is something I talked about in my Shopsmith Model 10's What When and Where thread. Later Model 10ER's had the version 7 Headstock with that hole and the Plate was held in place, most commonly, by pin at the top and a screw at the bottom. edma194 if you remove one or both of the screws you can rotate or remove the plate to expose the hole. If your Headstock doesn't have a hole behind the plate it is a version 6 Headstock and someone likely replaced the pins that held the plate on with screws. Without actually seeing that the hole is there it is hard to tell if one is a version 6 or 7 Headstock.

Here's something else that came with the 10ER, a Speed Selector 'Computer'.

I have some of those. It is basically the Speed Chart in the PDF attached below in a different format.

chapmanruss wrote: A couple of questions, does the fence have the block on the end of the lock knob or just the threaded end? Is there a hole in the headstock behind the Logo/Serial Number Plate?

Grabbed a picture of the headstock and fence for you. I assume that is the access hole behind the nameplate. It was attached with two screws. Not sure what you mean with the fence though, is it something showing in that picture? Also included a picture of the tailstock, all intact.

I think his fence question has to do with the fact that his fence has the angled locking knob screw.

AIUI the early version tended to move the fence as the knob was tightened and a later version fixed that with 'something' placed between the rotating screw and the front rail.

JPG wrote:I think his fence question has to do with the fact that his fence has the angled locking knob screw.

AIUI the early version tended to move the fence as the knob was tightened and a later version fixed that with 'something' placed between the rotating screw and the front rail.

That must be the P(lain) or W(edge) designation in the 10ER survey here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... XBhMHJJY1E

I'll have to double check that.

The Headstock is version 7 of 7 and the Tailstock is version 3 of 4. As for the fence, if you look in your fence's base as shown by the arrow in the picture below it will either have the end of the threads from the knob (version 3) or a wedge attached to the end of the threads (version 4.) I believe that is what Skip was referring to in his survey. Sorry, I don't have a picture that actually shows that but you can see it in the pictures added to Skip's survey.
Plain would be version 3 and wedged would be version 4.

This one doesn't look like the 'wedged' version in the survey. I think it's an adaptation of 'plain' with a makeshift wedge made of a folded piece of sheet metal. The photos below show it without the makeshift wedge, with it, and the wedge separately.

Works too good to be OEM.

As you noted it is the third version of the fence with the angled lock screw without the factory wedge. Some enterprising person has added the extra strip of metal to avoid the movement sometimes occurring when it is locked.