Shopsmith Forums

Hi Guys,
Picked up a speed changer for a cheep price but as you can see the ear has been broke off by the previous owner due to excessive force. Has anyone had this part repaired and what was the estimated cost of the repair. Here are some pictures.
Thanks in advance!!!!
Dave.

You need a welder that really knows his stuff. Many have been repaired(or at least attempted).

Looking at the springs, I think the nut on the end of the shaft is too tight which reduces the spring range causing them to 'bottom out' and over stress the ears. JMHO!

Other than the ear, it looks fantastic!!!

Thanks JP,
I’m just wondering if it will be cost if efficient to take it to a welder or do it myself. I have a MIG welder and weld steel so spending money for a spool of aluminum wire and argon gas to do just one repair cost about $70+. Just wondering if someone here in the group has had the repair done and how much they paid. That would determine if it is worth it or not. I only paid $30 for this speed changer. Thanks for your response!
Dave V.

I have not repaired one or had one repaired. I have had one that was previously repaired because of a broken ear and it worked without any issues. This is one of two common places the Speed Changer gets broken. The other is through the center of this main part when moving the headstock with the Speed Changer nut holding it too tight against the headstock. It breaks it in half through the headstock set screw opening. As JPG suggested the springs on the shaft look like they are compressed and this will contribute to breaking the ear off. In the picture below notice how tight the lock nut is on the shaft against the springs. The nut should only be barely past the threaded shaft end.
This is not a picture of one of my Speed Changers but an example of how much not to tighten the lock nut on the crank shaft. This much compression on the springs can damage them.

Russ,
Believe it or not the nut that adjust the tension on the springs is all the way to the end of the rod. I want to measure my other rod on my other speed changer to see if the length has been changed. Especially the part on the rod that’s not threaded. Thanks for the response!
Dave V.

I just checked 3 of mine and the threaded end is 2-5/8"long.

Russ,
Here are two pictures of my adjustment rod. With and without the springs and washers. As shown it too is 2 5/8 also. The washers are 1/8 thick except the washer next to the nut. That measures 1/32 thick. How thick are your washers?? Thanks for checking!
Dave V.

The washers look to be very close if not the same thickness as original ones but slightly larger in their outside diameter. The larger diameter should not pose a problem. You could try to find thinner washers to give the springs more room. The idea of the spring is to allow a little give when getting to the ends of the speed range. This avoids stress on the "ear" which as you well know can cause it to break off. One thing I have needed to do on a couple restorations of the Speed Changer is replace the lock nuts as the nylon "lock" was worn and not doing it's job anymore.

csxeng wrote:Thanks JP,
I’m just wondering if it will be cost if efficient to take it to a welder or do it myself. I have a MIG welder and weld steel so spending money for a spool of aluminum wire and argon gas to do just one repair cost about $70+. Just wondering if someone here in the group has had the repair done and how much they paid. That would determine if it is worth it or not. I only paid $30 for this speed changer. Thanks for your response!
Dave V.

Aluminum isn't the easiest metal to weld. It will puddle if not done correctly, it will look solid while heating it, then suddenly melt. I strongly suggest you take it to someone who KNOWS how to weld aluminum.

UPDATE!!!
The speed changer has been repaired at a local welding shop in Buffalo. Hopefully I'll get there before they close. $30 for the repair. I believe it was TIG welded. I'll post pictures when I receive the Speed changer! That was a quick turn around!
Dave V.