Shopsmith Forums

chapmanruss wrote:farmer,

Glad you were able to get the 10ER out of the corner and be ready for use again. I noticed something interesting in the picture. The bench boards have been remounted under the top of the metal bench ends instead of being over top of them. Was this done for a specific reason?

Sorry I have not seen that wandering Lathe Tool Rest.

John,

Looking at your 10ER makes me want to go get a blasting cabinet. I've tried Harbor Freight's Blasting Gun and Pressurized Abrasive Blaster using fine crushed walnut shells but have to fight with them to much because they clog up frequently. But at this point I have almost all the parts cleaned for my current restoration and one more left to do after that. I may stop restoring Model 10's at least for a while. Time to work on some other projects like other Shopsmith tools and making sawdust.

I am the third owner of the HF blast cabinet. I knew both of the previous owners at work. The cabinet is like new. The vac is home made by the first owner but it works fine. The first thing I did was take it apart and seal all the seams that could leak media. Then I upgraded it with a TP Tools gun and ceramic orifices. I don't get much leakage. It takes a long time to see any dust outside the cabinet. I use glass media. I think 80 grit. It is very fine. I am out in the country but there is a big blast shop about 3 miles away. They do work for Hill AFB and sell me bags of media cheaper than any where else.

The big thing is you need a high capacity compressor. It takes lots of air. I have a Quincy industrial 4 cylinder compressor. It is 18 CFM at 90 PSI. Even with that capacity it runs often when blasting. It is a 30 gallon tank so with a larger tank it would run less.

To me it is worth it. It makes things so muck easier and a lot less time.

This sounds like an off the wall idea, but, citrustrip will remove the dull oxidation. Kinda messy!

Discovered by random sloppiness.

In order to prepare the headstock for painting, what is the best way to remove the logo and then reattach it to the headstock afterward?
BPR

ryanbp01 wrote:In order to prepare the headstock for painting, what is the best way to remove the logo and then reattach it to the headstock afterward?
BPR

The plate is attached with drive screws. They are very hard. I grind off the head VERY carefully with a small air powered angle grinder with a 2 1/2" abrasive disk. I grind the head down to just above the plate. Then very carefully center punch and drill with a very sharp bit to remove the last bit of the head. Do not drill into the logo plate. Remove the plate and use a pin punch to drive the shank of the drive screw through the housing. It is a through hole.

Replacement drive screws are available. See the picture. I think I got them from Grainger. Nothing has to be done with the head stock hole. Just drive in the new drive screws.

ryanbp01 wrote:In order to prepare the headstock for painting, what is the best way to remove the logo and then reattach it to the headstock afterward?
BPR

To remove the logo plate Mickyd made a special punch and pressed the drive screws out from the inside using a wedge. description and pictures in the link below.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 523#p40523

The Headstock Mickyd was working on in the link Ron provided was the later version 7 Headstock which has an opening behind the Logo/Serial Number Plate. It was commonly attached with a drive screw (see John's post above) in the top hole and a standard 8-32 x 1/2" round head screw in the bottom hole. The version 7 Headstock was the last version and the only one to have the hole behind the Logo/Serial Number Plate. The opening was provided to make installing the switch easier. See page 5 of the FEB 52, SEP 52 or MAR 53 Owner's Manual for more information on this.

After examining the pulley on the cardstock, I determined that it should be replaced. Does anyone know of a good source to buy a replacement?
BPR

I was able to find a pulley in much better condition then the original one. When I had the pulley pulled off of the drive sleeve, I noticed a number of dings on the back side of the pulley which looks like someone in the past had used a flathead screwdriver as a type of punch with a hammer to remove it. After getting the headstock repainted, what is the best way to reinstall the quill return spring to the quill feed pinion?
BPR

ryanbp01 wrote:I was able to find a pulley in much better condition then the original one. When I had the pulley pulled off of the drive sleeve, I noticed a number of dings on the back side of the pulley which looks like someone in the past had used a flathead screwdriver as a type of punch with a hammer to remove it. After getting the headstock repainted, what is the best way to reinstall the quill return spring to the quill feed pinion?
BPR

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S66Lf9VAjnA[/youtube]

Thanks, Ron!
BPR