V-belt replacement

[roneg]

Sorry wrong again.. I only posted that last pic. to hopefully get some responses on, if the tracking on that belt looked OK. the deformed belt issue is concerning the v-belt pic posted. Sorry for the confusion..my bad!

[reible]

So we can all see the image at a decent size:

1.jpg (128.1 KiB) Viewed 13841 times

Ed

[garys]

That belt is definitely beyond its useful life. I'd order a new one from Shopsmith if you plan to use your Shopsmith.

[roneg]

Thanks garys I had come to that conclusion I was wondering if anyone here has exsperienced a simular situation on their SS. I ordered a replacement yesterday. I also learned to acces the sheeve from the medallion or..nameplate to release the keeper so as to remove/install the belt.

[JPG]

I gotta agree with Dusty. The control sheave looks excessively open.

As for Gilmer vs Poly-v, the v-belt sheaves are the same(only the drive belt pulleys are different.

The Gilmer looks to be tracking too far back. The idler sheave may be too far back causing both that and the excessive sheave opening. Idler bearing/shaft too far back?

[dusty]

Just a question:

Why when doing a belt replacement do we routinely position the belt so that at high speed the belt is approximately 1/8" below the circumference of the sheave?

Is there a consensus on 1/8" being the correct position?

Why not, for example, 1/4"?

Is there a consensus that the correct v-belt length is 26 3/4"?

[JPG]

Lotta 'maybe/whyfor' involved.

The dimension depends upon the wear status of the belt.

When new the belt should ride nearer the rim than when worn.

My own 'opinion' is that the belt to rim dimension(motor pulley at fast) should be the same as the belt to rim dimension(idler pulley at slow).

Thus it is not a single dimension nor at a single place/condition. It is equivalence at the ends of the speed adjustment range.

I think the nominal belt length is 25.5", but that is difficult to 'measure'.WHOOPS too many "5" 26.5

The length at the outer edge should be slightly greater than 25.5".26.5

Of equal importance is the width. A new belt needs to be slightly greater than 1/2". Unfortunately now days 1/2"(12mm) belts are slightly less than 1/2". For a while belt lengths at 1/2" increments disappeared. Recently some have appeared.

I recommend cogged belts either the internal ones or the newer top cog belts(more flexible).

[dusty]

Lotta 'maybe/whyfor' involved.

The dimension depends upon the wear status of the belt.

When new the belt should ride nearer the rim than when worn.

My own 'opinion' is that the belt to rim dimension(motor pulley at fast) should be the same as the belt to rim dimension(idler pulley at slow).

Absolutely...and I suggest that that dimension is approximately 1/8".

Thus it is not a single dimension nor at a single place/condition. It is equivalence at the ends of the speed adjustment range.

Absolutely...but I further suggest that where the belt is positioned "on the other sheave" is a function of the reeves drive. That position is determined automatically.

I think the nominal belt length is 25.5", but that is difficult to 'measure'.

I disagree on 25.5" being the outside dimension of a new belt based on my own measurements of three belts (two being brand new from Shopsmith. I measure those belts, both the 1 used and 2 new, to be 26.75".

The length at the outer edge should be slightly greater than 25.5".

Of equal importance is the width. A new belt needs to be slightly greater than 1/2". Unfortunately now days 1/2"(12mm) belts are slightly less than 1/2". For a while belt lengths at 1/2" increments disappeared. Recently some have appeared.

Of some importance is the width. The sheaves will adjust to that width. Yes, the diameter of the sheaves will be different and thus the diameter of the two pulleys will change but they will change equally and thus will not effect the ratio between the two significantly. If the ratio is not altered, speed changes will occur as they normally do.

I recommend cogged belts either the internal ones or the newer top cog belts(more flexible).

I have seen comments about clogged belts but have no experience or opinion o0n the matter.

My comments are highlighted.

[roneg]

I gotta agree with Dusty. The control sheave looks excessively open.

As for Gilmer vs Poly-v, the v-belt sheaves are the same(only the drive belt pulleys are different.

The Gilmer looks to be tracking too far back. The idler sheave may be too far back causing both that and the excessive sheave opening. Idler bearing/shaft too far back?

And what would be the test, and or remedy? I mean, how do I tell if there is some ongoing problem?

[dusty]

I am not sure of what you are asking. Hope this helps.

1) Lubricate the sheaves.

2) Replace the belt.

3) Perform a "High Speed Stop" adjustment"

4) Check position of the belt on both the motor sheave and the idler sheave.

Go make sawdust and enjoy. Nothing should change for quite a long time. I have not replaced a belt or performed a high speed stop adjustment for at least 3 years.

Keep the sheaves lubricated at the risk of over lubricating. The downside of over lubrication would be the excess oil that gets slung aroung the inside of the headstock. You already have experienced the down side of not doing the above.

With some operating time under your belt, you will hear the differences that might indicate a developing problem. When you think you hear something different - check it out.

Don't operate the machine without the locks all secured. If you do that, you will hear that too. Squeaks, rattles, etc. To say nothing of the table or carriage or tilt or quill moving on you during a cut.