Shopsmith Forums

Evaporiust also removes blox.

The drill chuck was never blox.

JPW often will work as well anyway.

Extensive blox is a SS Inc. thing. Most of the older stuff was not.

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:The spur is not that far off. Both set screws are nearly aligned with one another.

The point was the hole is 'off' the flat. The penetrating oil is not getting into the flat area so flow other that minor seepage is not occurring. The flat would provide a void facilitating greater distribution and greater 'storage' capacity.

I understand all of that. My point was that the spur was not so far misaligned that the flat was not there within the screw hole.

But that is OKAY. We'll have it your way.

I'm just glad that the spur has been removed and there was no damage or injury in the process.

Good Show.

dusty wrote:

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:The spur is not that far off. Both set screws are nearly aligned with one another.

The point was the hole is 'off' the flat. The penetrating oil is not getting into the flat area so flow other that minor seepage is not occurring. The flat would provide a void facilitating greater distribution and greater 'storage' capacity.

I understand all of that. My point was that the spur was not so far misaligned that the flat was not there within the screw hole.

But that is OKAY. We'll have it your way.

I'm just glad that the spur has been removed and there was no damage or injury in the process.

Good Show.

Well you are correct! I am guilty of looking at the pix rather than looking at real hardware. What I thought(?) was a liquid bubble edge is the edge of the flat.

So 'my way' was incorrect!

JPG wrote:

tucsonguy wrote:Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Or you can buy it on Amazon if you want it faster and are willing to pay more

Almost as good - biodiesel if you can find 100% in your area.

Why BIOdiesel?

Yes diesel oil penetrates well also(ask anyone who deals with it).

Biodiesel has amazing penetrant qualities that regular diesel does not have. Example:
When you convert a diesel engine to run on biodiesel, you have to replace ALL fuel hoses and connecting washers and connections with special biodiesel resistant parts, because biodiesel simply seeps through fittings in a way that diesel doesnt.
When I converted my motorcycle to run on a diesel engine, and then switched to biodiesel, I had to replace all hoses with special hoses, and I had to use a leather buffing wheel to make every connecting washer mirror smooth, to stop the leaking.

Biodiesel is an AMAZING penetrant. Buy some and test it out!

tucsonguy wrote:

JPG wrote:

tucsonguy wrote:Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Or you can buy it on Amazon if you want it faster and are willing to pay more

Almost as good - biodiesel if you can find 100% in your area.

Why BIOdiesel?

Yes diesel oil penetrates well also(ask anyone who deals with it).

Biodiesel has amazing penetrant qualities that regular diesel does not have. Example:
When you convert a diesel engine to run on biodiesel, you have to replace ALL fuel hoses and connecting washers and connections with special biodiesel resistant parts, because biodiesel simply seeps through fittings in a way that diesel doesnt.
When I converted my motorcycle to run on a diesel engine, and then switched to biodiesel, I had to replace all hoses with special hoses, and I had to use a leather buffing wheel to make every connecting washer mirror smooth, to stop the leaking.

Biodiesel is an AMAZING penetrant. Buy some and test it out!

My new thing learned for today! Thanks

As JPG said

One caveat - abrasive cleaning of black oxide parts removes the black oxide.

Your spur center is an example.

The black oxide coating is there to help retard rust. It is not a cure all for it. There are a lot of Shopsmith tools and accessories that were made prior to 1964 when they started putting the black oxide coating on them. The Goldie that JPG has owned since new didn't have it and I'll bet it's metal parts are shinny and free of rust. It just takes a little care to keep them that way. If it needs to come off than okay don't worry about it. Just enjoy your Shopsmith.

My guess is the previous owner was a turner only and never removed the drive center. I suspect you have an accumulation of finish on it. It could be lacquer, acrylic, poly, clear epoxy, or even CA glue or any combination of all.

I would put it in drill press mode, set a cup/container so the whole thing up to the aluminum collar could be submerged. Then I would soak in acetone over night. Then bang on it as recommended above if no go soak it another night in PB blaster.

The problem is with all the finish on it you are not able to get the blaster into the joint.

From the picture you can see the finish on it. Hopefully it is not epoxy or CA glue.

Ed in Tampa wrote:My guess is the previous owner was a turner only and never removed the drive center. I suspect you have an accumulation of finish on it. It could be lacquer, acrylic, poly, clear epoxy, or even CA glue or any combination of all.

I would put it in drill press mode, set a cup/container so the whole thing up to the aluminum collar could be submerged. Then I would soak in acetone over night. Then bang on it as recommended above if no go soak it another night in PB blaster.

The problem is with all the finish on it you are not able to get the blaster into the joint.

From the picture you can see the finish on it. Hopefully it is not epoxy or CA glue.

Aaaa ED, look back a few posts. https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 25#p256625

JPG wrote:

Ed in Tampa wrote:My guess is the previous owner was a turner only and never removed the drive center. I suspect you have an accumulation of finish on it. It could be lacquer, acrylic, poly, clear epoxy, or even CA glue or any combination of all.

I would put it in drill press mode, set a cup/container so the whole thing up to the aluminum collar could be submerged. Then I would soak in acetone over night. Then bang on it as recommended above if no go soak it another night in PB blaster.

The problem is with all the finish on it you are not able to get the blaster into the joint.

From the picture you can see the finish on it. Hopefully it is not epoxy or CA glue.

Aaaa ED, look back a few posts. https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 25#p256625

OOPS! SORRY!

Not a worry - Solid advice!

That's as close to what I can tell he did. The gent I picked this up from mentioned he had used the ss all of 3 times that entire year to turn stuff. I guess he and his son went through a phase with it, and fell out of favor.

The confounding thing about it to me is - I've gone through all the parts he gave me and there are random pieces to other equipment everywhere! I assume he must have bought this off another SS user who sold an extra or something.

My MKV came with the actual jointer and the bandsaw attachments - but has extra parts for the belt sander, the scroll saw, I think an upgraded 510 dust assy for something, a pully for something, a super tiny grinding/polishing wheel, and some really old documents to include the v1 issue of a shop smith magazine.

Speaking of - I can't tell if the schematics are saying I'm missing an important piece or just a cover for when the jointer is used on a stand... It seems so flimsy to have only a single mounting piece be the trunion. I cant seem to find many photos of th eback of the jointer, any thoughts?


P.S. @ JPG Thanks for the compliment! I'm a designer by day so graphics are in my wheelhouse. Which speaking of, I'd love to help out the community however I can, are there any graphics / manuals / ref charts that would benefit from being recreated/restored?