Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:I doubt ATF without the acetone will work.

I am curious where one finds Kroil to purchase.

I am still a believer in kerosene.

Turning a 4x4 between centers sans set screw may be fruitful.

A few years ago when I bought some the only place I could find it was directly from Kano Labs. I think at the time Skip posted it being on sale over on his Yahoo group. I bought two big cans. A quick google today shows it on Amazon and Walmart now.

Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Or you can buy it on Amazon if you want it faster and are willing to pay more

Almost as good - biodiesel if you can find 100% in your area.

tucsonguy wrote:Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Or you can buy it on Amazon if you want it faster and are willing to pay more

Almost as good - biodiesel if you can find 100% in your area.

Why BIOdiesel?

Yes diesel oil penetrates well also(ask anyone who deals with it).

May or may not be relevant. I noticed that the setscrew hole is not lined up with the flat (as shown by the setscrew on the spindle knob), There isn't any marks visible on the spindle through the setscrew hole, but it is possible that a burr has been raised on the spindle.

A similar but different problem came up last week on the facebook forum. A new owner was having difficulty removing a drill chuck that was stuck on the spindle. In that case he was unable to loosen the setscrew. As it turned out the setscrew had loosened a bit and then the chuck had turned on the spindle jamming the setscrew against the edge of the flat. The solution in that case was to tap the edge of the setscrew hole with a hammer and punch till it turned back in line with the flat which freed it up.

By drilling and grooving(think prep for spindle turning) but on the long side may provide a tool for rotating the center back to where the set screw hole sets over the flat. That would provide better distribution of penetrating fluid through the set screw hole.

The spur is not that far off. Both set screws are nearly aligned with one another.

dusty wrote:The spur is not that far off. Both set screws are nearly aligned with one another.

The point was the hole is 'off' the flat. The penetrating oil is not getting into the flat area so flow other that minor seepage is not occurring. The flat would provide a void facilitating greater distribution and greater 'storage' capacity.

EDIT: Well that simply just ain't so.

SEE later posts.

Recap:

After the soak in the PBblast / ATF It didn't seem like a whole bunch had changed, but after chucking up a scrap 4x4 post and letting it spin itself for a while on low speed (definitely shaking a bit, not exactly an evenly weighted piece.)

After taking that off, I noticed I could slip the chuck back and forth maybe 1/32 of an inch or so.. but progress is progress!

It didn't really go anywhere, but I wanted SOMETHING to go my way - so I just ended up sanding / polishing the lathe center to get a win with the machine. While working on it, I had one of those let your mind wander moments and remembered I had two pieces of threaded bar stock sitting in my backpack from my 3d printer.

I threaded it on just a bit, got some purchase, and got a little more play in it. With a bit more PB Blast and a tap from a hammer parallel to the direction of the quill - She popped off!


It took a lot of tinkering, but it's finally free and clear. Thanks everyone for the help!! I was able to the shaft up, chucked a few of the rustier pieces, cleaned/sanded/polished/waxed the drill-press chuck, the sanding disk, and a rust lathe plate as well. On to the next project!!

Great news!!!!

Apparently there were sufficient threads to make the earlier bolt suggestion work(no hammering ).

Quill looks undamaged. Not sure rust was the culprit. Very little apparent in the pix.

BTW congratulations on getting pix uploaded very early in your experience with this forum.

One caveat - abrasive cleaning of black oxide parts removes the black oxide.

Your spur center is an example.

Excellent Point!

I haven't bought any evapo-rust yet, so I've been just manually going after the oxidation. I've been attempting to get the rust off of the pieces and bring it back to normal, but even just using bar keepers friend or WD-40 and #0000 steel wool to polish the tools off, shortly began showing bare metal.

The drill chuck was so badly tarnished, I stripped it down and was considering cold blueing them again with something like https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10063 ... t-4-ounces.