10ER rebuild

[badtheba]

I just edited the post with some additional info I hope you don't need.

Everett

I think you mean your comments about the EZ outs if the 1/4-20 thumb screws were broken off in the miter gauge, and I am glad I didn't need that.

Because the threads don't start at the top, and mine were packed tight with sand, compressed air and soaking in penetrating oil still wouldn't allow me to thread a bolt all the way in. I borrowed all the tap sizes I'd need for the whole machine from my father in law, including a 3/8" bottoming tap for the middle hole of the miter gauge and chased all the threads. A little oil on the bolt threads and it now feels good as new. I also picked up 1" thumb screws, that tighten on the stop rod about 1 thread before bottoming out on the wings. Thanks for all the info.

BTW it really was just sand. And one of the holes had surviving eggs/guts so I can only picture it being mud daubers or similar insects.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[badtheba]

Another plus about borrowing all the taps is that I was able to chase out threads on pieces I wasn't able to resemble yet. In spraying paint, I decided it wouldn't really hurt much to leave many of the threaded holes unplugged, so I got overspray in a few non critical areas.

It didn't give me any trouble in places like the bolt that goes through the pivot base to hold it in vertical mode, or on any of the set screws. However the table raiser handle would not thread into the carriage more than a few threads before cleaning it out with a tap.

In hindsight I should have plugged these as well, but I figured being a bit tight at first because of paint wouldn't hurt anything.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[badtheba]

These parts shown aren't specifically for this 10ER, but I figured this is as good a place as any to put this post as I will be doing the same thing to the levers for my one piece wedges as well.

I was looking into using Plasti-Dip for the lock handles, as it seemed like they'd rust rather quickly after using Evapo-Rust and wire wheels to clean them up. After deciding I wanted a little more control over the thickness than if I used the dip coating, I researched the spray version. Apparently it's heavily marketed to people that want to customize their car finishes and peel it off later????

I ordered a can of translucent "Smoke" color. I did expect it to go on thick since it's a rubber coating, but it wasn't really any thicker then paint or spray lacquer. The pics with them inserted in the board are after 2 coats, the other pic is after 4 coats (final). The color in the pics under florescent lighting is pretty inaccurate, but I'm showing them because after 2 coats it didn't look much different than bare metal. After the 3rd and 4th coats it really darkened up.

The can says it's impact resistant, won't stretch, shrink, or turn brittle, yet it will peel right off when ready to remove. I'm pretty happy with it, and will be very happy if it permanently keeps rust from returning.

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[chapmanruss]

Your restoration is going nicely. It is interesting how dark the handles came out after the four coats of Plasti-Dip spray. Must have been a reaction with the coating on the bare metal. To make it able to spray there in more carrier solvent than in the dip coating. I wonder if the dip would have done the same.

As for controlling rust my first Model 10ER that I restored 4 years ago is kept under an original Shopsmith Model 10 canvas cover when not in use and still has no returning rust. The same is true with the other Model 10E I have kept which was restored 2 years ago and is under my custom made canvas cover. I keep all of my SPT's and my Mark V 520 (now Mark 7) stored under Shopsmith covers also. My Model 4E Jointer is kept under a regular Jointer cover and my Jig Saw for the Model 10's stores very nicely under the cover made for the Mark V SPT Jig Saw. To me it is worth the cost of buying the covers and making the one cover to protect my investment in these tools. Of course waxing the parts helps a lot too.

[badtheba]

It feels like I have been away from my favorite forums forever. I took a new job in July and that is taking up most of my time these days. I've also got my second child due early next year. If it weren't for the fact that we're finishing our upstairs bedrooms and basement play rooms as we rearrange for the new kid, I probably wouldn't be getting back to the SS in a while. However, as the 10ER is disassembled in the basement (in my wife's way) and will be heading to my 20x16' shed/workshop as soon as I get concrete, I will have more to share in this thread shortly. I am pretty close to getting the legs painted so I can reassemble the bench. Stay tuned.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Life does get in the way!

[PhilSC]

Hi! I'm working on a Mark V now, and I'm new to a lot of this. What is an "ROS"? Pardon my ignorance, and thanks in advance.

[tucsonguy]

Another thing I found and corrected was that one of the saw table support rods was only inserted to half of the set screw, so the end of the screw could easily have popped off the top of the rod.

image0008.jpg

One thing I found amazing, knowing literally nothing about these machines, is that they are one of the easiest things I have ever come across to work on. These things were made to be worked on with the simplest tools. I'm glad I have access to a bearing press, but other than that I've had to use no specially tools. I'm sure that's not news to all here, but it's surprised me!

That's one of the things we all like. In fact the MKV, the later machine was designed to be mostly worked on with one tool, the 5/32 allen key wrench. The 10ER needs about 4 different size allen wrenches.
Enjoy, you are off on a great journey!
I have a 10ER which I converted to a permanent digital variable speed control drill press using a treadmill motor and the control board from it. I also have the MKV 520 Powerpro as my main machine.
Be warned - you will find the 10ER to be a great machine in many ways, but as a table saw it is tiny and very limited. Start looking in your area for great deals on 510s and 520s... these are the Shopsmith tools that offer serious woodworking capabilities, often for not much more than your 10ER cost you...'

[badtheba]

Hi! I'm working on a Mark V now, and I'm new to a lot of this. What is an "ROS"? Pardon my ignorance, and thanks in advance.

I don't know what post or context you're seeing it in, but in woodworking it would normally mean random orbit sander.

[badtheba]

I'm back at it. The new job is slowing down a bit between holidays (was extrememly busy leading up to Christmas), so I've been taking loose parts over to my friend's shop again.

I went through way too many rattle cans with the last few parts, and didn't want to brush the blue/gray paint on the steel parts like I did on the cast parts. So after using rattle cans of sandable auto body primer and some Bondo glazing compound, I thinned down the paint and used an HVLP sprayer. So far I've only got one coat on but I'm happy. It hasn't come out to an even sheen yet, still kind of bumpy, but no orange peal. I've got a vent fan on in the booth tonight so hopefully I'll be able to get a second coat on everything tomorrow.

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