New Project
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34645
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: New Project
Read the PM I sent you last night.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: New Project
Wow. I have the Shopsmith chisel sharpening attachment for the strip sander, but right now I'm feeling kind of jealous! Great, great job!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: New Project
I'll call this the "Wasatch Sharpening Jig" (WSJ)
You could make one using .250 inch or .188 inch thick mild steel strap. It wouldn't look as fancy but would work fine. You'd just have to round the corners, drill the holes and tap the small 4 holes. Order the Tormek XB-100, if you already have the Tormek rod, or buy the Tormek BGM-100 kit which has both. The 1/2 inch rods are 1/2 inch x 8 inch long bolts with the heads cut off. Two 1/2 nuts and two 1/2 inch acorn nuts. To get the spacing right on the 1/2 inch holes, center and drill the hole on the end then place one 1/2 inch bolt in the SS belt sander and tighten the set screw. Use the two 1/2 inch nuts to snug the shaft to the new bracket, then use a 1/2 inch transfer punch or 1/2 inch drill to mark the other hole after you have tightened up the second set screw. Now mark the center of the plate where the arc, marked by the drill bit or transfer punch intersect. The screws securing the XB-100 to the steel bracket are 10-32 x 1/2 inch machine screws. Hope someone else finds the WSJ useful.
You could make one using .250 inch or .188 inch thick mild steel strap. It wouldn't look as fancy but would work fine. You'd just have to round the corners, drill the holes and tap the small 4 holes. Order the Tormek XB-100, if you already have the Tormek rod, or buy the Tormek BGM-100 kit which has both. The 1/2 inch rods are 1/2 inch x 8 inch long bolts with the heads cut off. Two 1/2 nuts and two 1/2 inch acorn nuts. To get the spacing right on the 1/2 inch holes, center and drill the hole on the end then place one 1/2 inch bolt in the SS belt sander and tighten the set screw. Use the two 1/2 inch nuts to snug the shaft to the new bracket, then use a 1/2 inch transfer punch or 1/2 inch drill to mark the other hole after you have tightened up the second set screw. Now mark the center of the plate where the arc, marked by the drill bit or transfer punch intersect. The screws securing the XB-100 to the steel bracket are 10-32 x 1/2 inch machine screws. Hope someone else finds the WSJ useful.
Re: New Project
But what's the assembly holding the chisel in your photo?
Incidentally, I think you can run this set up off the back of the headstock (aux spindle); just pop off the silver hub cover off the belt sander and move the belt sander drive hub to that side. Then you could sharpen and turn without having to remove the turning to sharpen.
Incidentally, I think you can run this set up off the back of the headstock (aux spindle); just pop off the silver hub cover off the belt sander and move the belt sander drive hub to that side. Then you could sharpen and turn without having to remove the turning to sharpen.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34645
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: New Project
Now about mounting the belt sander next to the position of the headstock when 'turning'.algale wrote:But what's the assembly holding the chisel in your photo?
Incidentally, I think you can run this set up off the back of the headstock (aux spindle); just pop off the silver hub cover off the belt sander and move the belt sander drive hub to that side. Then you could sharpen and turn without having to remove the turning to sharpen.
Never mind, just use those coupler ends that attach to a 'stick' of variable length.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: New Project
Oops! Forgot about that.JPG wrote:Now about mounting the belt sander next to the position of the headstock when 'turning'.algale wrote:But what's the assembly holding the chisel in your photo?
Incidentally, I think you can run this set up off the back of the headstock (aux spindle); just pop off the silver hub cover off the belt sander and move the belt sander drive hub to that side. Then you could sharpen and turn without having to remove the turning to sharpen.
Never mind, just use those coupler ends that attach to a 'stick' of variable length.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: New Project
Very nice! Why did you cut an arc versus making it straight?
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
Re: New Project
This was the first one made and I wanted to make sure there would be no clearance issues plus the arc looked better to me. The additional parts are from Tormek the wet grinder/sharpening company. The BGM-100 kit allows you to use their jigs on a grinder, I just adapted it to the SS. Jet makes similar jigs too.
You can also mount the Tormek bracket to the opposite side of the plate to get the jig rod closer to the belt for certain jigs but the plate could get in the way of some setups.
You can also mount the Tormek bracket to the opposite side of the plate to get the jig rod closer to the belt for certain jigs but the plate could get in the way of some setups.
Re: New Project
This looks like a product Shopsmith ought to offer for sale.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: New Project
Now that you've made one, do you think the arc is needed? If I was to copy your fixture I'd have trouble cutting the arc in 1/4" steel plate stock but straight I could do in my shop with ease.
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!