Shopsmith Forums

I actually have 2-Shopsmiths one a Mark V the other a Mark 510. I upgraded to the 2-bearing quill in the Mark V a number of years ago and still have the single bearing quill. The bearings are going out on the 510 and was wondering if I can use the quill out of the single bearing quill and add another bearing to it and put it in the 510. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry

lalkie wrote:I actually have 2-Shopsmiths one a Mark V the other a Mark 510. I upgraded to the 2-bearing quill in the Mark V a number of years ago and still have the single bearing quill. The bearings are going out on the 510 and was wondering if I can use the quill out of the single bearing quill and add another bearing to it and put it in the 510. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry

First, you have two Mk V's I guess since you say the "one is a Mark V". Your 510 is also a MK V. No you can't just add a bearing to your single bearing quill. I wonder why your 510 quill has bad bearings. Those bearings last a very very long time. It will be much cheaper to just replace the bearings in your 510 quill.

FWIW, Skip Campbell at MKC Tools can modify your single bearing quill to a two bearing quill. He is first class and probably has one in stock.

+1 for Skip! He has worked on my Mark V several times over the years. Great work and prices!

Jack

thanks for the reply. I bought the 510 used and was told the man used it mostly as a lathe. the bearings are clicking when I first start it and slowing down when I shut it off. I will probably pull the quill and replace both bearings they are not very expensive. Thanks Larry

While doing some maintenance on my double bearing quill, I found that the bearings were rough and needing replacement. After looking over the Forum and doing some research, I found what looks like three types of quill spindle assemblies. One of them has a roll pin making it relatively simple to change the bearings and two of them have what looks like a collar (pressed of epoxied, i couldn't tell). Mine of course has no roll pin. I have been told that this type of spindle is not repairable.

Have any of you had any luck, or do any of you know how to replace the bearings on the spindle assembly without the roll pin (see picture)?

Is the collar between the two spindle just pressed on?

Would it be bad for my machine if I only replaced the forward bearing?

Is it possible or advisable to add grease to a sealed bearing?

Thanks for any help or insight. Sadly, I suspect I may be looking for a new quill--ouch.

I do not know.

Question is, why is it considered non-repairable?

It any event I would start by removing the outer bearing(a bearing puller should work).

That will allow closer eyeballing of the spacer. I doubt it is permanently attached.

Assuming it is removable, drive the inner bearing off(with/without the spacer).

What have you to lose at this point? At least the outer bearing could be replaced.

First off I have never had a one piece Shopsmith quill shaft apart but I did have a very similar quill shaft from an old (1960's) vintage Craftsman drill press that I put new bearings on. The right hand bearing in the photo will come off with a simple bearing puller as JPG suggested. I pondered over the second bearing for a while and finally decided to press it in the direction of the splines. The bearing moved about 1/2 inch and then moved with only a slight bit of drag over the splines. The new bearing went on over the splines and on to the bearing seat. The spline end bearing is retained in the quill housing by an internal seat in the housing so there is no "C" clip or other device to hold it in place.
Hope this helps.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:First off I have never had a one piece Shopsmith quill shaft apart but I did have a very similar quill shaft from an old (1960's) vintage Craftsman drill press that I put new bearings on. The right hand bearing in the photo will come off with a simple bearing puller as JPG suggested. I pondered over the second bearing for a while and finally decided to press it in the direction of the splines. The bearing moved about 1/2 inch and then moved with only a slight bit of drag over the splines. The new bearing went on over the splines and on to the bearing seat. The spline end bearing is retained in the quill housing by an internal seat in the housing so there is no "C" clip or other device to hold it in place.
Hope this helps.
Bill V

That means the 'spacer' is actually the shaft itself.

I used my bearing puller on the outer bearing. No problems with that one. It is the inner bearing that has me stumped. It looks like the sleeve and outer part of the spindle (where I just took the bearing off) is one peace. I assume the inner bearing was pressed on fist (it is seated against the splined side of the shaft) and than the sleeve/outer bearing shaft was pressed on, followed by the outer bearing.

My problem is that the outer diameter of the splined side of the shaft and the outer diameter of the coupler/sleeve are greater then the inner bearing race.

I am probably being dense here, but how do attach my bearing puller?

benmcn wrote:I used my bearing puller on the outer bearing. No problems with that one. It is the inner bearing that has me stumped. It looks like the sleeve and outer part of the spindle (where I just took the bearing off) is one peace. I assume the inner bearing was pressed on fist (it is seated against the splined side of the shaft) and than the sleeve/outer bearing shaft was pressed on, followed by the outer bearing.

My problem is that the outer diameter of the splined side of the shaft and the outer diameter of the coupler/sleeve are greater then the inner bearing race.

I am probably being dense here, but how do attach my bearing puller?

The only time you REALLY need to pull on the inner race when removing a bearing is when you are going to reuse the bearing. In this case you are replacing the bearing so just pull on the exposed part of the bearing/ outer race and it should come off just fine.

When putting the new bearing on you will be able to press on the inner race as you should.