Shopsmith Forums

buck wrote:i need one ,what info do you need so i get the right one

The spring is repairable most of the time. In a pinch, I believe you can get a Mark V quill spring to work.

Can you take a picture of what you have and your problem?

buck wrote:i need one ,what info do you need so i get the right one

ANY shopsmith quill return spring(including model 10's) will work.

521875 includes the housing.

Used can be obtained on e-bay etc.

Replacing it into the housing can be difficult and a religion test.

Also it IS possible to add the slotted hole to one that is broken. Not easy either.

P.S. Reinstalling a spring etc. onto the shaft can also be very trying.

Hi all,

I hope it's OK that I'm bumping this thread instead of a new one. I thought it would be best to keep the information together.

I'm in the process of reassembling my headstock, so the thing has been completely apart. I reinstalled the quill feed pinion and associated parts, followed by the drive sleeve assembly (with new bearings and belt). All appeared fine until I tried to reinstall the quill assembly and started to turn the pinion the requisite 3.5 times. What it felt like was the spring slipping off of the pin on the shaft. I'd get a bit over one complete turn and then hear a pop and the tension would release. So I took the thing apart and here is what I found: What's the diagnosis and cure here, guys? From this thread, it seems one possible solution is to remove the spring, cut off the interior end where it's slipping and redrill the holes. But I also want to make sure that I'm not doing something wrong during the reassembly phase. Is there anything that I should be doing to help that spring seat properly on the pin? Is there anything I could/should do to the pin to help it seat more reliably?

Thanks for your help!
John

I would CAREFULLY straighten** the END of the spring so the very END does NOT ride on the quill shaft(in it's current state the end is preventing the pin from entering the hole*).

Then form(bend) further from the end so the spring will naturally lie in the path of the pin.**

The intent is to allow the pin to slide into the hole as the shaft is rotated.


* It is not clear in your pix, but the hole should be key hole shaped with the narrow slot end towards the end of the spring.

** the end must retain a curve radius about equal to the shaft diameter and lie slightly inside the location where the shaft will be. Much easier to do than to describe!

It is hard to tell from your picture but is the end of the spring split between the hole and the end or is it just scratches from the pin? If it is split it is always going to come "off" the pin every time it is being put under tension. If this is the case you should consider getting a new spring or a good used one. It also appears that the end has broken off at some point as noted by the shorter distance between the end of the key hole and the end of the spring. The key hole doesn't look right in the picture as JPG has also noted. The end may have broken off or was damaged and a new pin hole was made next to the new end point. If you have already read this thread you know that the spring is the same from the first Model 10E's to the current Mark machines so any used spring in good condition will work. A new one from Shopsmith will come already installed in the spring housing.

If you are keeping the spring follow JPG's advice. Below is a Spring from an early Model 10ER to help show the spring curve JPG talked about.

Heh, I think I got it. I was testing it and tried to take it back off and now it's not even coming off. ;-)

Thanks, guys.

Uh..., no. Reinstalled it, gave it not even one twist and heard a snap. <sigh/>

I took it back apart and this time the end snapped off, so I guess this time I have to take it out and try to put new holes in it. I'm pretty sure that's already been discussed in this thread, so I'll review it again and see what I can come up with.

Since the end snapped off and it appears that was not the first time, you should replace the spring or you may end up chasing that problem until there is no spring length left.

Last October I purchased a second 10ER (w/speedchanger) and a separate complete headstock. The springs in both headstocks had the ends broke off and need repair.
I found this thread and the repairs call for drilling the new holes. I tried this a bit after I got them, but I could barely scratch the surface!
Is there some special type drill bit to use?

My newest Shopsmith is set up as a lathe only..... New fun!!

snoopy55 wrote:Last October I purchased a second 10ER (w/speedchanger) and a separate complete headstock. The springs in both headstocks had the ends broke off and need repair.
I found this thread and the repairs call for drilling the new holes. I tried this a bit after I got them, but I could barely scratch the surface!
Is there some special type drill bit to use?

My newest Shopsmith is set up as a lathe only..... New fun!!

It has been many years since I drilled new holes in mine, but I don't recall it being that difficult.

Things to try-

- Sharp bits

- Use a center punch to position the holes,

- try drilling small pilot holes.

Note the 10ER spring mounts on the front of the headstock, the mark V spring is on the rear. so if you watch a Mk V video, the spring winds in the opposite direction.


Good video on removing and replacing the 10ER spring.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S66Lf9VAjnA[/youtube]