The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

[Sodaklo]

So, I recently acquired a Magna Sawsmith RAS. It was in great condition, but my friend decided he didn’t need to strap it into his pickup for a short drive home and it fell out the side. So when it fell, it crushed the saw base so the top rail sits at a 15 degree downward slant towards the front. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it?

[JPG]

picture!

[Sodaklo]

It pushed down on the front side and pulled up on the back

[edma194]

In the picture it looks like the arm and track assembly is crooked on the column, as if something is bent inside it. But you make it sound like it is merely leaning forward on the base, as if the base as been bent. If it is only the base that is bent you can force it up to level several ways. I'll have to go look at mine to see what can be done, the base seems identical to yours.

But first, please clarify the problem. Can you raise the arm up down on the column with the crank? Can you slide the yoke back and forth on the arm? Can you use the controls to rotate the yoke on the arm and the head inside the yoke? If all those controls work properly then it is just about getting to stand vertical on the base.

Go to the first page of this thread and there are links to download the appropriate manuals: viewtopic.php?p=145274#p145274

[Sodaklo]

I am able to move it along the rail and up and down. The sole problem is the base is caved in on the front bolts and pulled up on the back bolts.

[edma194]

Ok. Let me take a look at mine a little later on. My recollection is the bolts are threaded into base plate. Does it look the bolts have pulled out of threads at all? Can you loosen all the bolts a little to see if the threads are good? The tough part will be the steel channels that converge on either side of the column bolts. If they are bent you'll need to reshape them as you level the top. I think you'll need some wood blocks and wood shims. Put the blocks under the base top ins front of and beside the column bolts. They probably have to be outside of the steel channels on the side. Put blocks between the steel channel sides just in front of the base top. Then start pushing in wedges and forcing the metal back into shape. Once a shim is pushed in tight wait for hours or even over night to let the metal conform to the new shape.

Can you get some good pictures showing the base? Under and over the top part where the column bolts in. Maybe put a level or straight edge on it to see where it's bent.

[Sodaklo]

92DA49F3-3FB3-4586-91A6-79930D53DD44.jpeg (222.15 KiB) Viewed 9496 times

7A39FC6A-FDE3-47FF-A12C-3157440BA529.jpeg (169.63 KiB) Viewed 9496 times

3ABFDF82-5075-449B-8BC5-F142F92DE629.jpeg (243.56 KiB) Viewed 9496 times

I’m not sure if you can quite decipher what is wrong from these pictures, but it fell directly onto the top of the post.

[Sodaklo]

The threads are still good, but the support beams is are partially crushed. I’m thinking try and beat it into submission with a hammer and blocking and see how it works out. Or welding a steel plate over the top and drilling new mounting holes for the base.

[edma194]

Figure which is easier. You won't need to weld the plate on if it's secure with bolts to the interior channel pieces and the back and sides of the frame. I think I'd try forcing it back first. You can drill some holes in the top and run a bolt or threaded rod down onto reinforcing material on the bottom. Use a couple of nuts and washers on each bolt to raise the metal and get it level. Then you can continue adjusting over time as the metal reshapes itself.

Best of luck to you. It doesn't sound as bad as falling off a truck could have been

[19Bob65]

I have a Yuba Saw Smith radial arm saw with a burned out motor. Everything else is in clean, excellent condition. So I am ready to sell parts to anyone in need. I think the bearings are fine in this saw if you want them. I am in Dallas Tx. but can ship as needed.

I know this is an old post, but I just inherited my Granddads Sawsmith and it doesn't have a blade guard, has the dust deflector and kickback stick but no actual guard. I'm still reading through the forum, but if anyone reads this and has a blade guard for a 10, I'd like to buy it from you so I can use his saw in my shop.