Re: V-belt replacement
Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 9:54 am
Thanks for that JPG. I have found it strange that that dial won't actually ever line up with the slow, (and) fast both to the machines arrrow.
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Is it safe to conclude, after all of this, that the interference between the motor belt and the way tubes was eliminated by changing out the motor pan?roneg wrote:Better news. It is all back together and running fine...so far New power cord, new main belt, new re-built control knob. Because I stripped the cheesy aluminum gear on the old one!. Lastly new on/off switch. Oh..all new belt cover,motor pan, and motor mount screws. All I can say is who ever designed these greenies must of had needle nose hands! Long ones!
Yea, correct motor. I posted pix earlier..somewhere in this thread. (post 258019) I'm pretty sure of the strain relief, as it came from another Mark V, had to drill the pan out to 3/4 hole, but yea you never can tell! What is the proper tool pray-tell? You listed the two favorite go to tools for me to install the strain relief. BTW, with the motor mounted... I can visually inspect about nothing on this old greenie! Adding the access hole under the logo plate, was one of shopsmith's better ideas!dusty wrote:If you have the correct strain relief it will be very difficult to maneuver and especially so unless you have the appropriate tool for that strain relief. A pair of pliers or long nose is not the correct tool. I posted a diagram that shows how close the belt is to the way tubes. About 1/2" or so. Close, in this case is not an issue.
You could drop the motor pan (with motor mounted) and perform a visual inspection. There is no excess of space in the pan with the motor installed but the space is adequate.
I do assume (of course you do) that you have an appropriate motor. One built for a Shopsmith. I don't know of any suitable substitute.
It is interesting. The Magna 10E and maybe very early 10ER's had no hole in the head stock behind the ID plate. Most (?) 10ER's do. Then Magna produced the MK 5 with the "A" head stock and no hole. I wonder what the thinking was there.JPG wrote:Yes an "A" headstock can be a challenge.
I would attach the ground wire to the motor under one of the tie bolt nuts.
As for switch/quill clearance, switches with terminals extending out the 'back' were not intended way back then.
I would absolutely use quick disconnects between the switch and the power cord as well as between the switch and the motor. The ground wire is an exception to that. Less necessary with later headstocks.
The historically correct power cord strain relief is quite small. The cord had a small molded grommet retainer molded onto the cord.
I attribute it to lack of forethought. Since there was little to no reason for access in the 10(other than replacing the power switch and the motor was easily removed) no thought was given to access for lubrication etc.. I do not think user lubrication was either since they did not have an oil hole in the movable sheave hubs either.jsburger wrote:
It is interesting. The Magna 10E and maybe very early 10ER's had no hole in the head stock behind the ID plate. Most (?) 10ER's do. Then Magna produced the MK 5 with the "A" head stock and no hole. I wonder what the thinking was there.
I agree, but that begs the question why did they put the hole in the model 10 in the first place?JPG wrote:I attribute it to lack of forethought. Since there was little to no reason for access in the 10(other than replacing the power switch and the motor was easily removed) no thought was given to access for lubrication etc.. I do not think user lubrication was either since they did not have an oil hole in the movable sheave hubs either.jsburger wrote:
It is interesting. The Magna 10E and maybe very early 10ER's had no hole in the head stock behind the ID plate. Most (?) 10ER's do. Then Magna produced the MK 5 with the "A" head stock and no hole. I wonder what the thinking was there.
I am curious what the first Greenie manual had to say about lubricating the movable sheaves.