How much power should I expect?

[HopefulSSer]

It's a 500 so it takes the short one. 55321 I believe

Thanks!

[RFGuy]

It's a 500 so it takes the short one. 55321 I believe

Thanks!

Yeah, I believe that is the correct one. By the way, Russ put together a great compilation of Shopsmith arbors and some more info on them at the link below:

viewtopic.php?p=260771#p260771

[chapmanruss]

WOW, a lot has been posted since I was on here yesterday. RFGuy thanks for posting the link to the Identifying Shopsmith Arbors Thread. The 5/8" arbor for the original Table System aka 500 is 555321. (note that it is three 5's and 321) When your Mark 5 was made the 5/8" Universal Arbor (later part number 505506) was used for 5/8" arbor hole blades.

Something Farmer had commented on was raising the saw blade up to maximum or it the case of a Shopsmith lower the table down as low as it can go to have less blade contact area while cutting. That may help reduce the "work" the blade is doing by reducing the blade contact area in the cut. There has been a lot of discussion about belt slippage but I don't believe that is the problem here. Yes the variable speed pulley system does take away some "power" to the blade and was acknowledged with the Speed Changer for the Shopsmith Model 10's that I have found in my research of them.

As for replacing the power cord, if old, is a good idea especially if it does not include a ground. Check the connections of the wires to see if any breaks have occurred in the wire strands which would affect the flow of electricity through them. The switch itself could be a problem, if original, since your Mark 5 is from 1960 that's a lot of time in use and could have "burnt" contacts in the switch. These and other recommendations are looking at low "power" to the motor which may contribute to your problem. Of course. it could come down to being the motor itself. "ouch" In that case if you end up having to replace the motor go for a 1-1/8 HP motor.

[dusty]

I would recommend a combination blade. This is what I have mounted almoxt all of the time. I employ the rip blade only when doing an exceptional amount of ripping. Doing so reduces time spent in change overs and costs nothing in performance.

Not a rule just an old mans way of doing things. It has worked well thru many board feet of lumber.

As for the power cord ...I prefer the molded plug so I buy an extension corde that is longer than I need and cut off the excess. That which is not used on the Shopsmith becomes an extension cord for the shop. I use 12 /2 with ground.

[JPG]

Yeah them changeovers are a problem with a SS!


Good example for refuting the naysayers.(how long does it take thee with thy cabinet/contractor saw to change the blade?)

[dusty]

Yeah them changeovers are a problem with a SS!


Good example for refuting the naysayers.(how long does it take thee with thy cabinet/contractor saw to change the blade?)

Not if you plan your work and avoid them. However, changeovers are really not an issue unless you are set up for a specific depth of cut.

[chapmanruss]

Good recommendation on the cord size from Dusty. Using a grounded and larger gauge (12 gauge) power cord may require a larger hole and strain relief in the motor pan.

Having extra Arbors can reduce change over times by having your most commonly used blades already mounted on arbors. It makes blade changes faster on all my Shopsmiths than on my 10" Craftsman Table Saw.

[DLB]

I like Shopsmith blades pretty well for their price point. But I just looked at the web site and I don't see the versions I have used. I only see think kerf blades, and though they are similar in layout they are now made in Germany, so clearly a different supplier as well. I thought I remembered that SS carried both thin kerf and standard, but I don't see standard now. And, the 555958 thin kerf combination says it has been standard with Mark V since 1996.(?) I'm holding, in my hand, a brand new 555001 full kerf combination blade. Wondering where I got that, but I don't think it is 25+ years old. Anyway, I don't think I have used the current offerings. I should have bought one while they were on sale to try.

- David

[lahola1]

Dusty said- Yes, the Shopsmith is a different animal but I don,t follow the logic that concludes power loss in the variable speedn system. The drive line is nothing more that a "pulley arrangement". Set at mid-range (L/M on the speed dial) the shafts are turning at the same speed (3450rpm) and the pulleys 1:1. Where is there power loss that does not exist in any equivalent 1:1 pulley set up.

The motor would be 1:1 (3450RPM) with the idler pulley, not the quill /saw blade. You would have to dial up the speed more to get 3450RPM at the blade giving you a smaller motor pulley and larger idler pulley causing power loss; along with the other power losses mentioned.

[dusty]

Dusty said- Yes, the Shopsmith is a different animal but I don,t follow the logic that concludes power loss in the variable speedn system. The drive line is nothing more that a "pulley arrangement". Set at mid-range (L/M on the speed dial) the shafts are turning at the same speed (3450rpm) and the pulleys 1:1. Where is there power loss that does not exist in any equivalent 1:1 pulley set up.

The motor would be 1:1 (3450RPM) with the idler pulley, not the quill /saw blade. You would have to dial up the speed more to get 3450RPM at the blade giving you a smaller motor pulley and larger idler pulley causing power loss; along with the other power losses mentioned.

As I attempted to communicate is that yes, there is some power loss because it is a pulley system but any change in power loss brought about by a pulley ratio change is minimal if at all.