POCKet Hole Drilling with ShopSmith

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woodburner
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Post by woodburner »

It always helps to clamp the wood when drilling in the drill press mode, no matter what kind of hole you're drilling.

The demo Rick did at the TA was using a small piece of wood (he did the same demo at the TA's I attended) that he said himself should be clamped down to either the fence or table. He didn't suffer any kickback when he did it during the TA's I attended. Maybe it was just a one time thing.

He did use a brad point bit just like I do and I have no problem with kickback/gouging as long as the wood is held correctly. When making pocket holes, I always clamp it down to the fence when the wood is smaller/shorter than the length of the fence/table. If it is longer, I have found no need to clamp it down as long as I hold it firmly against the fence with my free hand.
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Woodburner:o
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I know this adds an extra setup, but try starting the hole with a SS router bit(the ones with a 1/2" shank. They do NOT wander! Advance the quill until the shallow side of the hole is started, then change over to whatever bit you need. The router will give the bit a flat(perpendicular) surface to start.
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calver
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Went with Kreg Jr. For Pocket Holes

Post by calver »

Thanks to all for your information. I decided to go with the Kreg Jr. I built a simple 4 by 8 frame using 2x12 redwood for raised gardening . This was a lot simpler then using Lug Bolts and easier to align.
I plan to make some cabinets next. I'll be using the SS to do my cuts.

Dave C.
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