Shopsmith Forums

Unless the set screw is 'out' do not try the wedge approach to remove. The shaft flat is tapered like the quill shaft.

So, I've used penetrating oil and evaporust and I cannot get these dang things to budge. I've tried gently hammering it (just enough to get it to vibrate) and nothing.

Could you explain this wedge method more clearly? I don't quite get it and I don't know what else to do.

Maybe I'm missing something?

The set screws are out. Is there something else that I need to do, or should they just come off? AUGH.

ghouliegirl wrote:So, I've used penetrating oil and evaporust and I cannot get these dang things to budge. I've tried gently hammering it (just enough to get it to vibrate) and nothing.

Could you explain this wedge method more clearly? I don't quite get it and I don't know what else to do.

PLEASE DO NOT!!! The wedges press against the perforated sheet metal(vent plate) and will likely destroy it and you will still be left with the stubborn hub(s).

OK with the set screw(s) out apply penetrating fluid into the set screw holes and let them soak.

After they are so prepared, apply torque to get them to free themselves from the shaft. Anything that will apply great torque without damaging either the hub or the shaft should do it. Channellocks come to mind. Also vice grip if necessary. Last resort a big pipe wrench!!! Alternating direction may help.

Realize the hubs are replacable, the shafts not as easily($) so.

At some point I would take vice grip pliers and grip the hub with pliers in-line with the shaft, then try to wiggle the hub up and down and then left and right, very slightly to get it moving.

Have you tried filling the setscrew hole with penetrating oil? Does it seem to soak into the joint? It can take some time. To get a table trunnion off recently I had to soak it for over a week. After that I could only wiggle it out a millimeter at a time over a couple of days until it finally came off.

As JPG mentioned, the hubs don't cost much. I'd consider cutting them apart before I'd do anything that would damage anything else.

It might help if you could take the headstock off and flip it end for end with quill facing the direction that the hubs are now. This would allow you to lift the machine into the drill press position, except now the SPT hubs would located such that you could use the table to hold a pan or other container full of evaporust. Move the table up until the hubs are submerged in the evaporust and allow them to soak for a day or so. Additionally you could soak the Hubs in penetrating oil

Depending on the hub type (some of mine are open on both sides) you might be able to use a bearing puller.

benmcn wrote:It might help if you could take the headstock off and flip it end for end with quill facing the direction that the hubs are now. This would allow you to lift the machine into the drill press position, except now the SPT hubs would located such that you could use the table to hold a pan or other container full of evaporust. Move the table up until the hubs are submerged in the evaporust and allow them to soak for a day or so. Additional you could soak the Hubs in penetrating oil

Depending on the hub type (some of mine are open on both sides) you might be able to use a bearing puller.

This is a great idea.

Removing and reinstalling a headstock is usually a two person job. I've done it myself before, but I was a lot younger and my body didn't need so much restoration work.

Before trying to put it back on make sure the wedge locks are lined up so the way tubes will pass through.

I really like the technique that Doug Reid demonstrates for taking off the headstock. You can see it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sMVDpovFMw&t=16s

I was thinking of using wood wedges on the top hub and using a socket on the bottom if a bearing puller isn't available. A bearing puller would be better for both. What about using compressed air to force the penetrating oil around the shafts? I'll take a look at the video.

Doug's last name is Reid.