POCKet Hole Drilling with ShopSmith

[rcoder]

After several years of use the case is a life saver. Returning everything to its appropriate slot keeps parts from getting lost. There really aren't that many. If I could only keep track of that 5/32 hex wrench.

Bob Coder
Willcox

[dlbristol]

I saw one of the guys doing a Lowe's demo put 2 pocket holes in a 3/4 in board with the SS in horizontal drilling mode. I don't know exactly how he did it, but it is possible. He had the advantage of being able to do the drilling without any constraints as to location and depth! I have " messed about" with this, and never really made it work well enough to use it on a project. As you guys cautioned, the bits really wander, alignment is a bear and the jigs look to be a more comfortable option

[pascalore]

I recomend the Kreg but you may not be able to get the one I have. I opted for the second least expensive, about $30, portable unit Model R1/R2. It has two holes in the jig, a base plate and riser block with screws for the different thicknesses of wood (1/2, 3/4 & 1 1/2), a drill bit with stop collar and a vice-grip clamping tool, allen wrench, square driver tip and some screws. Got it at Lowes. Similar to the Kreg Jig Jr with the clamping tool included but no case.

Portable was key to my getting this model. The two-holes make it very stable and you can drill them both for greater hold. I dadoed sides of a computer desk, set the shelf in the dado, removed the base plate from the Kreg tool and flushed the jig against the side board and clamped it in place. Drilled holes at three points along the shelf then glued and fastened the shelf with the special Kreg screws.

I can supply pictures if you want. Hope this helps.

P.

[woodburner]

Nobody has said anything about using the SS in making pocket holes, I guess I'm the first.

Making pocket holes on a SS is pretty easy. You use it the the drill press mode with the main table and the fence. No special jigs or tools are necessary. A few measurements and you're done.

I like it because it allows you to put pocket holes down the complete side of a table apron with one set-up. Doing this with the Kreg system means you will need to attach/drill/remove, attach/drill/remove the Kreg system over and over again.

The only thing I have found the Kreg good for is putting pocket holes into the end of workpieces, but this can also be accomplished using the SS.

I do however recommend using the Kreg drill bit (or any stepped drill bit) while doing this on your SS. This drill bit is designed and sized for pocket holes and makes the task much easier. The use of a brad point bit also works, as these do not wander off the mark like a standard twist bit will.

[calver]

Can you describe in a little more detail your set up. E.G table angle, etc. Any use of an extra board to prevent wandering?
Thanks.
Dave C

[james.miller]

Kreg recommends that the drill bit turn at 2000 RPM, K speed setting. Also the bit should stop about 1/8" from the edge of board. Bit points to the center of the edge of the board.

From a Traveling Academy we were instructed to use a fence extension when using the Shopsmith to drill pocket holes in long or wide boards.

A few years ago I found the angle that Kreg uses but can't find it today, it was probably on their web site. Again from a Traveling Academy they said to use 20 degrees or so but that takes a wide board to make it work.

[Gene Howe]

I like it because it allows you to put pocket holes down the complete side of a table apron with one set-up. Doing this with the Kreg system means you will need to attach/drill/remove, attach/drill/remove the Kreg system over and over again.

If you purchase the "System", (I have the older one without the dust collection) it has an integral clamp. Mounted to a piece of ply, I've done 6' aprons really quickly. I only use the portable jig for items that are angled or for a curved application.

I do however recommend using the Kreg drill bit (or any stepped drill bit) while doing this on your SS. This drill bit is designed and sized for pocket holes and makes the task much easier. The use of a brad point bit also works, as these do not wander off the mark like a standard twist bit will.

I wouldn't even attempt a pocket hole with a standard or brad point. I think the edge of a brad point would contact the material before the brad would. And, you really do need that step down from the 3/8 portion, for the screw.

[woodburner]

Sorry PKNI, but I have used a brad point bit on my Shopsmith to make many a pocket hole with no problems whatsover. As long as the wood is held steady and tight the bit will go in with no wandering.

As for the table aprons, I just put the apron against the SS fence, line up my measurement mark, drill, slide the apron down to my next measurement mark, drill (oh, I think you get the idea) with no clamp, unclamp, etc. like you would with the Kreg System. I just hold the apron steady against the fence and it works great, even with a brad point bit.

For a safety consideration though, I always clamp my wood to the fence if the piece I'm drilling is shorter than the length of the fence itself. It always pays to play it safe in the shop.

[Gene Howe]

Well, You are undoubtedly correct. Your experience with that set up trumps my visualizations. I've never tried it with the SS. With the Saw Train and router table attached to the SS, changing over to DP mode is a real Pain! I did try it with a jig on the stand alone DP (with a standard drill bit) That fiasco is what led to the Kreg purchase.

[allsas]

Rick Davis demonstrated drilling Pocket holes @ TA couple of years ago. He used a brad point bit, but got a little kick / gouge on the wood when the bit started. He did it on request, and demonstrated it as a pocket hole in line with the length of his demonstration stock. The Brad point bit kicks the stock as it starts the hole. Solution maybe to clamp the stock or follow the PTWFE recommendation.

The angle is 15 degrees. A pipe nipple can be used as the guide if you want to make your own jig. The 3/8 stepped bit is the expensive item in entry level kits. I haven't found an equivalent course thread pocket hole screw for softwoods and particle board. I have been using Lath Screws. The Lath Screws have fine thread and care must be used to avoid stripping them out of softwoods and composition board.