Jigsaw 610 Restore Parts

[Spooner]

IMG_2328-R.png (1.17 MiB) Viewed 2213 times

IMG_2329-R.png (1.16 MiB) Viewed 2213 times

[bgeagle]

Spooner, I need a new gaskets and a table insert. How can I order them from you?

[bgeagle]

I almost forgot, I need a bandsaw table insert as well.

[jjrausch]

Hey Spooner,

I have a 1958 Magna Jigsaw in pretty good condition. The only problem seems to be the main gasket for the oil reservoir leaks. No other seal appears to have any problems. I'd prefer to replace the gasket rather than to use something like Permatex Ultra Black to seal the cover.

Can you still provide that #47 (PN 502274) Gasket?

[jjrausch]

Okay so it's official. I now have a means of duplicating the Jigsaw oil gasket, the air pump leather gasket, the table insert and the yoke. You could do a total restore from these parts.

$matches[2]

IMG_2327-R.png

Spooner... I don't mean to be anxious, but my Magna Jigsaw is laying on my workbench waiting to hear if you are able to provide/sell me an oil gasket, or if I need to go to using Permatex.

[JPG]

Get some sheet gasket material from an auto parts store and make one. The cover makes an adequate outer template. Inner contour is not critical. The extra hole for venting IS CRITICAL.

[chapmanruss]

jjrausch,

Not sure why spooner is not getting back to you. As JPG points out you can make your own replacement gasket. The cover makes a good template for the outside cuts. Besides the inside cut-out add the 4 screw holes plus an indent cut-out for the single vent hole which is located all around the original gasket as pointed out by the arrows in the picture below. The original gasket was made so no matter which way the gasket was placed there would be a cut-out for the vent. That is the reason for the 8 cut-outs around the inside of the gasket instead of a single one. Having an unobstructed vent hole is very important to the Jig Saws operation. As the Lower Chuck Shaft moves up and down displaced air is drawn in and pushed out of the housing.

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Jig Saw Gasket - arrows.jpg (357.18 KiB) Viewed 1764 times

[KCollins]

OMG... I am soooo sorry guys... I kind of fell off the face of the earth for a while and haven't been in the forum for months. I didn't realize this post was getting any traction. bgeagle, jjrausc... I have waited all winter for it to warm up enough to check that the gaskets I cut fit well and they don't... I still have some work that needs to be done to get a better fit. Sorry... For now I would say go with what JPG and chapmanruss says. But make a sample gasket first and check for fit. I used the above image as well to create mine and the holes don't line up. bgeagle. I have the stl files for those inserts if you wanted to try to print them at your library. Just say the word and I'll email them to you.

[JPG]

FWIW only five holes are required. 4 mounting screws and a vent hole, The entire interior of the gasket need NOT be cut out.

The vent hole needs to be large enough to not restrict air passage.(clear from casting hole to crankcase) I think the internal air pressure(pulsing) is a factor in the gasket leaking(eventually).

[chapmanruss]

The picture I posted above is the OEM gasket from Shopsmith. As JPG and I have said you only need the 4 screw holes and 1 hole for the vent that is large enough for air to enter/leave through the vent hole from the Main Housing. I agree with JPG when he said

I think the internal air pressure(pulsing) is a factor in the gasket leaking(eventually).

It is important to check frequently that the vent hole is clear. It is a very small hole on the upper side of the Main Housing and gets blocked easily.