Quill return spring...

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

User avatar
chapmanruss
Platinum Member
Posts: 3449
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
Location: near Portland, Oregon

Re: Quill return spring...

Post by chapmanruss »

snoopy,

If you have trouble making a new key hole in your old spring you may want to consider buying a used or new spring. Remember these springs from the Model 10's are around 70 years old. Some are now brittle and tend to break. Others are fine but become damaged due to mis-handling. Never let the spring "retract" without keeping it under control. The spring used in the Model 10's are the same spring used today in the Mark V and Mark 7. If you choose to buy a new spring from Shopsmith it only comes in the spring housing so it must be removed from that and installed in the Model 10 housing. It is part number 521875 and it is $33.37 + S/H. Good luck.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
snoopy55
Bronze Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2016 11:48 pm

Re: Quill return spring...

Post by snoopy55 »

Well, after trying to get a temp password (I just remembered my original) I decided to go down and mess with the spring. I did the punch for a mark, and decided to punch it all the way. Dern punch refused to come out! When I got drilling I saw a bit of smoke. The bit was to dull and the wood under the spring had started to overheat.
I went over and dug out my Dremmel and one of the conical diamond bits and went to work! 15 minutes later I had it! Hooked it to the shaft and started winding. I got the cap on and the rest of the hardware. I left it loose enough so that it doesn't pop when it reached top, it just lightly taps it.
I still have the other to do, but at least I have a backup.
Now, the second one has an 'S' shape to the pin end. Is this needed? The one I just finished I did flat. I didn't want to try to bend it, as chapmanruss says, they are most likely brittle. The only problem I can see with the second one is the punching of the starter hole.....
User avatar
chapmanruss
Platinum Member
Posts: 3449
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
Location: near Portland, Oregon

Re: Quill return spring...

Post by chapmanruss »

snoopy you said
Now, the second one has an 'S' shape to the pin end.
That should not be there. I would refer you back to my post on page 4 with the picture of a spring. The only curve shape it should have, other than being a coil, is the "hook" end where it holds on to the housing. If the pin end is "S" shaped it could cause a problem with it holding on the pin and/or staying there.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
snoopy55
Bronze Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2016 11:48 pm

Re: Quill return spring...

Post by snoopy55 »

Thanks, MUCH work time saved!

I'm guessing then that the previous owner was working on it and put that in there, but didn't get to the hole drilling. Or else it's not the original spring.....

Thinking on that, the spring would be backwards if it was attached that way. Odd.....
Post Reply