Once the table/blade/slot/miter gage alignments are correct, there are still a couple of other issues that might cause the work piece to bind against the blade as it exits the cut. The first, and more likely, is that the splitter is not parallel to the blade. If the splitter is at even a very small an angle to the blade it can force the end of the workpiece sideways, which moves it towards the blade on one side of the cut and away from it on the other. The way to check it is to move the anti-kickback pawls up and out of the way...I use a pencil between the pawls and the top of the splitter until the alignment is finished...then, take a straight edge like the blade of a combination square and lay it flat on the table, snug against the blade. You have to make sure the straight edge is against the body of the blade and not the tips of the teeth. Then keeping the straight edge against the blade, slide it towards the splitter and then align the face of the splitter against the edge of the straight edge. Do this for both sides of the blade. The splitter should now be in line with the blade. You might have to do a little shimming at the base of the splitter, where it slides, to get this alignment. I know on my 500 I check this frequently, since I am always taking the guard on and off.
The other possibility that comes to mind is that your workpiece might be "case hardened", which is a form of incomplete curing. You might try cutting a piece from a different board and see if that makes any difference.
Hope some of this is helpful.
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser