New project new idea to try out

This is a forum for intermediate to advanced woodworkers. Show off your projects or share your ideas.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

Post Reply
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

New project new idea to try out

Post by reible »

I'm working on fixture to mount my SO on so I can span open areas, use it on softer materials and use it on ruff materials.

Many moons ago I made one of these for one of my trim routers and it has gotten a lot of use. You can even use it to level ruff wood but I digress.

However the SO has some other factors which make this more of a test if it can be done then a surefire solution to solve those issues. And no it is not going to be used to get a flat surface on ruff wood, well at least I don't envision that.

As an over view this is the general idea of where I'm coming from.
ScreenHunter 129a.jpg
ScreenHunter 129a.jpg (101.09 KiB) Viewed 18592 times
The basic idea is to have supports on both sides to keep the SO level and not dependent on the work piece surface to support it or keep it flat and level. The span is somewhere near 2 feet give somewhere in the 10" reach for working on the project.

One of the things I think it will need is some support to keep the weight of the router and downward pressure from bowing things at that distance.

At first I was picturing use some U channel or the like. After thinking about for a while I came up with an idea to use t-track. In this case the function of the t-track is not for mounting things but for support. In other applications it could do both. We will get back to this in a moment.

The basic idea would be to attach the SO to the platform and as luck would have it the SO base has two threaded locations that can be used. There is some other oddity about using the touch-off but that is more of a detail for the SO people so we will let that one slip by.

In the sketch you can see that base plate/jig interfaces is, it is the large square towards the middle. We will not cover those details either since this is not about those fine of detail on the project.

Now we can get to what is nearly the final design. Keep in mind the use of the mounted track is intended as only a support in this design, other times the actual function of the track can also come into play.
ScreenHunter 133.jpg
ScreenHunter 133.jpg (54.41 KiB) Viewed 18592 times
Now here is the part where you need to pay attention.

This is track I own so if you happened to have some other brand or style this might not work as well or at all. The base of the jig is counter bored for the heads of the fasteners and through hole allow the fastener to come from the bottom and go through the tracks holes and a nut can be added.

Not breath taking or new but I like the application of hardware in this manor.

Here are a couple of pictures:
Clipboard0100.jpg
Clipboard0100.jpg (68.03 KiB) Viewed 18592 times
Clipboard0101.jpg
Clipboard0101.jpg (58.65 KiB) Viewed 18592 times
The method of attachment should allow 1/4" t-track hardware to be used. If so then this can have a lot more applications.

I'm looking forward to getting this project underway and will keep you inform as to what I find out.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
claimdude
Gold Member
Posts: 456
Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:47 pm

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by claimdude »

Ed,

Keep it coming! I recently acquired a SO and am also interested in the details regarding application, touch off, etc.

Thanks
Jack
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by reible »

A few changes to my design. First I decided to make the jig just fit the SO and the two t-tracks. The added plastic didn't really do much so why have it??

Second the hex nuts were difficult to install, more so then I expected. So I went with some square nuts. The machine screws of the correct length should arrive on Monday. Until then I had a few longer ones which I used to get things mounted and make sure I didn't mess the design up too much. The screws I have in there are a round head and taller then the ones I was planning for so I can't really use it until the real one arrive and I swap them out.

I used sketchup with fabber plug-in to generate the file and the SO to do the holes. The placement of the center hole was a little off but I'm sure it was my measuring or my layout the was the issue, but it is no problem since I made the hole oversize.

Her is a picture of the jig with the t-track mounted:
SO base.jpg
SO base.jpg (96.05 KiB) Viewed 18383 times
It mounts like so:
mounting SO.jpg
mounting SO.jpg (138.27 KiB) Viewed 18383 times
Here is an example of how it will be able to span a lot farther then the stock base allows:
SO spanning.jpg
SO spanning.jpg (168.71 KiB) Viewed 18383 times
If things go right I will try it out next week sometime.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
claimdude
Gold Member
Posts: 456
Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:47 pm

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by claimdude »

Ed,

Would you envision this jig as being useful toward using the SO in making custom tool inserts for Systainers?

Thanks
Jack
masonsailor2
Platinum Member
Posts: 1564
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:57 am
Location: Las Vegas NV

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by masonsailor2 »

Great idea Ed. It will solve a lot of issues with doing objects with irregular surfaces. It should be possible with your jig to make a stepped object such as a pyramid shape. Very cool. I have been playing with the SO and Fusion 360 in my spare time and I now have a fairly good grasp on Fusion 360. I finally found a tutorial series that explains 360 very well and made it easy to finally get the concept. I decided to start with making a vertical milling station and instead of using one of the canned programs I am starting from scratch using 360. So far it is going as planned and the back piece is done. I used the SO to cut the holes for the dogs which turned out not to be 3/4” diameter but more like 0.730 so the SO really worked well there. Had I been using a 3/4” Forstner bit they would have been too loose. One question. Is the tape board the same thickness as the plexi ? Also have you tried the clear tape over the domino tape idea ?
Paul
User avatar
jsburger
Platinum Member
Posts: 6397
Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:06 pm
Location: Hooper, UT

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by jsburger »

I have thought of using clear poly on a tape board but have not tried it yet.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by reible »

Yes that would be my hope. I know other have used the SO resting on the insert material but I can also see that being problematic depending on the cut out. Any cuts already made become potential "catch" surfaces as you move aroung, this might not be an issue as the foam is pretty forgiving.

Ed

claimdude wrote:Ed,

Would you envision this jig as being useful toward using the SO in making custom tool inserts for Systainers?

Thanks
Jack
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Re: New project new idea to try out

Post by reible »

The tape board or surface really needs to be at the same level as the SO. The set up pictured would not work well it was just to show the spanning. The tape board I would use is the same thickness as the plastic.

I have a collection of tape boards. In a lot of cases the SO never goes over the tape board. I do sometimes add tape to the work piece and supplement with the tape board.

I have just started experimenting with printed paper tape. I laminated a couple of sheets to play with. I know the SO can read the tape but I don't know if there are any accuracy issues when you cut with them. I know other have printed on a more durable stock in 11 x 17 which is another option.

I don't worry so much about the cost of the tape, but I do care about the results. Seems a bit silly to worry about a couple of $ worth of tape when you have a piece of wood that costs way more and that you have spent time working on becomes added value so messing it up towards the end would be way worse then spending the few dollars to not have that happen.

So far I have stayed away from fusion, it reminds me of cad programs from way back when and I hated them. When we finally moved on it was to programs that act a lot like sketchup, they were solid 3D but still a lot like sketchup and much more to my liking. So far everything that I have wanted to do I have been able to do is sketchup with the fabber plug-in. Until that changes I just will keep going along with what I have.

Yes the SO is quite the drill press. When I made my vertical station it depended on two independently cut vertical elements that would come together as one part and it work! I have a small project coming up where I will be using the vertical station so I might post a few shots of it in use for that. And yes I did my own design too as I had certain things I wanted to implement.

Ed


masonsailor2 wrote:Great idea Ed. It will solve a lot of issues with doing objects with irregular surfaces. It should be possible with your jig to make a stepped object such as a pyramid shape. Very cool. I have been playing with the SO and Fusion 360 in my spare time and I now have a fairly good grasp on Fusion 360. I finally found a tutorial series that explains 360 very well and made it easy to finally get the concept. I decided to start with making a vertical milling station and instead of using one of the canned programs I am starting from scratch using 360. So far it is going as planned and the back piece is done. I used the SO to cut the holes for the dogs which turned out not to be 3/4” diameter but more like 0.730 so the SO really worked well there. Had I been using a 3/4” Forstner bit they would have been too loose. One question. Is the tape board the same thickness as the plexi ? Also have you tried the clear tape over the domino tape idea ?
Paul
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Post Reply