I just posted some photos of a double tilt setup I have been working on. It has worked out really well and takes about 30 seconds to switch from tilting one way to another. I first drilled a 3/8 in hole completely through each tilt base and way tubes. I then made two cuts on each side of the tilt base bore one horizontal and the other vertical. After some clean up using the disc sander I inserted a 3/8in bolt and secured the bolt with a winged nut. All the work was done on another ER.
The cutting was done with an Avanti 7in circular cut-off blade (less than $3) at HD.
To tilt the unit I simply remove the two bolts on the opposite side and lift normally. This design does away with the hassle of having to remove the pins.
Chris in NC
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
I just posted some photos of a double tilt setup I have been working on. It has worked out really well and takes about 30 seconds to switch from tilting one way to another. I first drilled a 3/8 in hole completely through each tilt base and way tubes. I then made two cuts on each side of the tilt base bore one horizontal and the other vertical. After some clean up using the disc sander I inserted a 3/8in bolt and secured the bolt with a winged nut. All the work was done on another ER.
The cutting was done with an Avanti 7in circular cut-off blade (less than $3) at HD.
To tilt the unit I simply remove the two bolts on the opposite side and lift normally. This design does away with the hassle of having to remove the pins.
Chris in NC
Very nice! I really don't want to do any of that cutting, or drilling clean through the way tubes like he did, as I'd like to be able to reverse changes and go right back to a normal machine if something doesn't work out for any reason. However I respect the quality of work in his method. It doesn't look like a hack job.
I do really like the table he modified for it, eliminating the trunnion altogether. Although I hadn't considered that before, I had considered buying a spare table just for the reverse mode. So having it bolted rigid to support rods instead of tilting was a good design I may steal.
Looks like he did a real nice job with the color scheme as well, I like the red on some smaller parts.
Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.
Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.
Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).
As stated before, when the table is flipped around, the trunnion prevents the quill from being able to align with or get close to being centered on the table insert. Making the table offset from the trunnion so the trunnion can drop below the quill and get closer to the headstock was my first plan. Eliminating the trunnion and only being able to have the table perpendicular to the way tubes was this other user's solution. That would almost require having a spare table to be practical.
JPG wrote:Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.
Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).
As stated before, when the table is flipped around, the trunnion prevents the quill from being able to align with or get close to being centered on the table insert. Making the table offset from the trunnion so the trunnion can drop below the quill and get closer to the headstock was my first plan. Eliminating the trunnion and only being able to have the table perpendicular to the way tubes was this other user's solution. That would almost require having a spare table to be practical.
Hmmmm. I seem to recall that
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Here are the rest of the photos from Chris Gentile's albums.
I couldn't get them to download properly from the Yahoo site so these are cropped screen shots.
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dt10.jpg (118.42 KiB) Viewed 9414 times
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
OK, so while I was disassembling my old treadmill for its motor and electronics, I had an aha! moment. If I took the main treadmill frame and cut it apart, then bolted it to the bottom of a shortened bench using the metal 10ER legs, I'd be able to have a base on the floor that the "left" end of the machine would cantilever over when in horizontal mode... Bear with me.
Here's the bare frame as I removed it from my basement. I brought it over to my friend's shop to do the initial work on it.
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Now this week my friend told me I'd have to round up some of my various projects because they had some larger cabinet jobs coming up and needed all the space they could get. So tonight I went over and cut it up as planned.
Here's what I ended up with. If everything goes as planned I'll have a very rigid frame thanks to the accessory shelf (original treadmill deck ripped narrower) a few inches off the floor.
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Here's how it would be positioned if facing the front of the machine. The left end headrest would be on the tilting (yet to be built) platform cantilevered over that end. When tilted down, the headstock would be allowed to go much lower than if I were to use a second pivot base. I don't know if this would be an advantage or not.
IMG_20180315_213225692.jpg (629.5 KiB) Viewed 9261 times
There is not much to follow here since this thread has been idle for almost three years now.
Although I didn't comment on this thread at the time I had thought about how I would make one if I was to consider making a double tilt Model 10 for fun. I would probably set it up to remove the pins between the base and arm to release either end to tilt it. To me that would be the least amount of changes to accomplish the goal. I would modify the pins to make them easier to remove and re-insert. Chris' solution for the table is an option I would consider from his double tilt Model 10. Since I have a Mark 7 I don't need a double tilt Model 10 and will not likely make one.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.