My 520 started singing today.

[dynabase]

OK so where should I look to stoping my blade from singing? It doesn't seem to affect ahything but something must be causing the harmonic. I guess I could wait until somthing actually breaks but I may not live that long. Also when we made a 20 degree cut I had to extend the quill to keep the blade from binding on the side of the insert. Is this normal? My blade sits on the left side of the insert. It's so close to the left side that it would be hard to put a business card between the insert and the blade.

Michael

[moggymatt]

OK so where should I look to stoping my blade from singing? It doesn't seem to affect ahything but something must be causing the harmonic. I guess I could wait until somthing actually breaks but I may not live that long. Also when we made a 20 degree cut I had to extend the quill to keep the blade from binding on the side of the insert. Is this normal? My blade sits on the left side of the insert. It's so close to the left side that it would be hard to put a business card between the insert and the blade.

Michael

Can you get a few pictures of the saw arbor and rubber table stop? A wrong saw arbor will cause the blade to align improperly.

[moggymatt]

OK so where should I look to stoping my blade from singing? It doesn't seem to affect ahything but something must be causing the harmonic. I guess I could wait until somthing actually breaks but I may not live that long. Also when we made a 20 degree cut I had to extend the quill to keep the blade from binding on the side of the insert. Is this normal? My blade sits on the left side of the insert. It's so close to the left side that it would be hard to put a business card between the insert and the blade.

Michael

Can you get a few pictures of the saw arbor and rubber table stop? A wrong saw arbor will cause the blade to align improperly.

[dynabase]

Will do tomorrow. The rubber table stop is new from Shopsmith. It is exactly the same size as the old one the machine had when I got it. I only replaced it because the original had been cut off because the original owner thought it was packing. That said I will take a picture of both.

Michael

[dusty]

With the new rubber bumper, with the quill fully retracted, with the carriage and headstock contacting the rubber bumper, with all locks secured -
the left face of the blade should align with the left edge of the table tubes.

Check table alignment.

The Latest Table Alignment Jig 008.jpg (1.78 MiB) Viewed 6211 times

The Latest Table Alignment Jig 004.jpg (2.07 MiB) Viewed 6209 times

This jig centers the blade while ensuring that it is parallel to the miter slots. It is initially employed while the four trunnion bolts are loose. Once the trunnion bolts are secured, the table is checked again for square and it is then time to Make Sawdust.

CAUTION: Make certain that the edges of the jig that contact the blade are parallel to the runners that position the jig.

With this jig in place, slowly rotating the blade will quickly reveal a bent (warped) saw blade. A bent blade will bind in some locations and run free in others.

This image of the two pieces of the jig upside down and over lapping show that they are identical dimensions thus ensuring that using them as described will center the blade between the miter slots.

[dynabase]

The table jig is great. Thanks Dusty.

I started playing with it today. I have not finished yet but did confirm it was off center. I also noticed the bolt holes on the front trunnion are much larger than the bolt holes on the rear trunnion. The bolts are the same size but the bolt holes are different between the two trunnions. So you have play on one trunnion and no play on the other trunnion. I will try and realign it tomorrow but it seems that the larger holes on one trunnion will only help parallel the table but will prevent me from shifting the whole table to the right. Time will tell how it works out. I could drill the holes in the table out so the bolts would have more play but I'm not a fan of modifying things that should work as designed. So unless Shopsmith forgot to drill two holes out I'm not going to change it.

[ERLover]

My bet is the wash machine bearing might have went, in MHO the weakest link.
I doubt it is in the quill. Time will tell.

Waterpump????

Come on that little bearing, you even have revered to it as that.

[ERLover]

Come on JPG
http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/search.ph ... mp+bearing

[masonsailor2]

I will put my money on the arbor being bent. You can check this fairly easy. Blade wobble will give you what you are describing. Mark a tooth on your blade with a magic marker. Then align the saw to the table using the marked tooth at both ends of the table insert. If you don't have a dial indicator you can use a combo square as a " feeler guage " which works very well. After the alignment is as close to perfect as you can get mark another tooth at 90 degrees to the first mark. Now check to see if there is any variance in the alignment using the second tooth. If the arbor is bent there will be a fair amount of variance between the two. Fortunately replacing a quill is very easy and quick.
Paul

[JPG]

My bet is the wash machine bearing might have went, in MHO the weakest link.
I doubt it is in the quill. Time will tell.

Waterpump????

Come on that little bearing, you even have revered to it as that.

Yes my point was it IS a water pump bearing, not a WASH MACHINE bearing.

Think automotive water pump from the old days with a radiator fan attached.

Re the trunion mount holes. This has been beat to death previously. 'Opinions' vary, but it has been referred to as a vendor error. Nick stated to drill them out, but back then it was one of the two holes in the rear trunion mount that was too small. If yours has both holes too small, that is 'new'.

IF you decide to drill them out do be extremely cautious and very securely tie down the mount. Hole size should match the holes in the other (front) trunion(assuming it IS correct). Gradually increasing the bit size makes this safer/easier.