Two Bearing Quill
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Two Bearing Quill
I actually have 2-Shopsmiths one a Mark V the other a Mark 510. I upgraded to the 2-bearing quill in the Mark V a number of years ago and still have the single bearing quill. The bearings are going out on the 510 and was wondering if I can use the quill out of the single bearing quill and add another bearing to it and put it in the 510. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
Re: Two Bearing Quill
First, you have two Mk V's I guess since you say the "one is a Mark V". Your 510 is also a MK V. No you can't just add a bearing to your single bearing quill. I wonder why your 510 quill has bad bearings. Those bearings last a very very long time. It will be much cheaper to just replace the bearings in your 510 quill.lalkie wrote:I actually have 2-Shopsmiths one a Mark V the other a Mark 510. I upgraded to the 2-bearing quill in the Mark V a number of years ago and still have the single bearing quill. The bearings are going out on the 510 and was wondering if I can use the quill out of the single bearing quill and add another bearing to it and put it in the 510. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
FWIW, Skip Campbell at MKC Tools can modify your single bearing quill to a two bearing quill. He is first class and probably has one in stock.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Two Bearing Quill
+1 for Skip! He has worked on my Mark V several times over the years. Great work and prices!
Jack
Jack
Re: Two Bearing Quill
thanks for the reply. I bought the 510 used and was told the man used it mostly as a lathe. the bearings are clicking when I first start it and slowing down when I shut it off. I will probably pull the quill and replace both bearings they are not very expensive. Thanks Larry
Re: Two Bearing Quill
While doing some maintenance on my double bearing quill, I found that the bearings were rough and needing replacement. After looking over the Forum and doing some research, I found what looks like three types of quill spindle assemblies. One of them has a roll pin making it relatively simple to change the bearings and two of them have what looks like a collar (pressed of epoxied, i couldn't tell). Mine of course has no roll pin. I have been told that this type of spindle is not repairable.
Have any of you had any luck, or do any of you know how to replace the bearings on the spindle assembly without the roll pin (see picture)?
Is the collar between the two spindle just pressed on?
Would it be bad for my machine if I only replaced the forward bearing?
Is it possible or advisable to add grease to a sealed bearing?
Thanks for any help or insight. Sadly, I suspect I may be looking for a new quill--ouch.
Have any of you had any luck, or do any of you know how to replace the bearings on the spindle assembly without the roll pin (see picture)?
Is the collar between the two spindle just pressed on?
Would it be bad for my machine if I only replaced the forward bearing?
Is it possible or advisable to add grease to a sealed bearing?
Thanks for any help or insight. Sadly, I suspect I may be looking for a new quill--ouch.
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- JPG
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Re: Two Bearing Quill
I do not know.
Question is, why is it considered non-repairable?
It any event I would start by removing the outer bearing(a bearing puller should work).
That will allow closer eyeballing of the spacer. I doubt it is permanently attached.
Assuming it is removable, drive the inner bearing off(with/without the spacer).
What have you to lose at this point? At least the outer bearing could be replaced.
Question is, why is it considered non-repairable?
It any event I would start by removing the outer bearing(a bearing puller should work).
That will allow closer eyeballing of the spacer. I doubt it is permanently attached.
Assuming it is removable, drive the inner bearing off(with/without the spacer).
What have you to lose at this point? At least the outer bearing could be replaced.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Two Bearing Quill
First off I have never had a one piece Shopsmith quill shaft apart but I did have a very similar quill shaft from an old (1960's) vintage Craftsman drill press that I put new bearings on. The right hand bearing in the photo will come off with a simple bearing puller as JPG suggested. I pondered over the second bearing for a while and finally decided to press it in the direction of the splines. The bearing moved about 1/2 inch and then moved with only a slight bit of drag over the splines. The new bearing went on over the splines and on to the bearing seat. The spline end bearing is retained in the quill housing by an internal seat in the housing so there is no "C" clip or other device to hold it in place.
Hope this helps.
Bill V
Hope this helps.
Bill V
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34648
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Two Bearing Quill
That means the 'spacer' is actually the shaft itself.wa2crk wrote:First off I have never had a one piece Shopsmith quill shaft apart but I did have a very similar quill shaft from an old (1960's) vintage Craftsman drill press that I put new bearings on. The right hand bearing in the photo will come off with a simple bearing puller as JPG suggested. I pondered over the second bearing for a while and finally decided to press it in the direction of the splines. The bearing moved about 1/2 inch and then moved with only a slight bit of drag over the splines. The new bearing went on over the splines and on to the bearing seat. The spline end bearing is retained in the quill housing by an internal seat in the housing so there is no "C" clip or other device to hold it in place.
Hope this helps.
Bill V
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Two Bearing Quill
I used my bearing puller on the outer bearing. No problems with that one. It is the inner bearing that has me stumped. It looks like the sleeve and outer part of the spindle (where I just took the bearing off) is one peace. I assume the inner bearing was pressed on fist (it is seated against the splined side of the shaft) and than the sleeve/outer bearing shaft was pressed on, followed by the outer bearing.
My problem is that the outer diameter of the splined side of the shaft and the outer diameter of the coupler/sleeve are greater then the inner bearing race.
I am probably being dense here, but how do attach my bearing puller?
My problem is that the outer diameter of the splined side of the shaft and the outer diameter of the coupler/sleeve are greater then the inner bearing race.
I am probably being dense here, but how do attach my bearing puller?
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- outer bearing removal with bearing puller.jpg (27.17 KiB) Viewed 15058 times
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- outer bearing removed.jpg (36.47 KiB) Viewed 15058 times
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- inner bearing close up front.jpg (21.09 KiB) Viewed 15058 times
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- inner bearing close up rear side.jpg (30.16 KiB) Viewed 15058 times
Re: Two Bearing Quill
The only time you REALLY need to pull on the inner race when removing a bearing is when you are going to reuse the bearing. In this case you are replacing the bearing so just pull on the exposed part of the bearing/ outer race and it should come off just fine.benmcn wrote:I used my bearing puller on the outer bearing. No problems with that one. It is the inner bearing that has me stumped. It looks like the sleeve and outer part of the spindle (where I just took the bearing off) is one peace. I assume the inner bearing was pressed on fist (it is seated against the splined side of the shaft) and than the sleeve/outer bearing shaft was pressed on, followed by the outer bearing.
My problem is that the outer diameter of the splined side of the shaft and the outer diameter of the coupler/sleeve are greater then the inner bearing race.
I am probably being dense here, but how do attach my bearing puller?
When putting the new bearing on you will be able to press on the inner race as you should.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT