Your post was very helpful!
First of all, it validated my suspicions that were aroused by the reviews of the Shopsmith mortiser. And secondly, saved me aggravation and $$.
My intentions now are to use the OAR. I've done loose tenons before. This little job would be a good place for them again.
I can hear my long neglected OAR snickering at me, now.
benush26 wrote:Sorry about being late to the party, but hope the following is useful.
I had the SS mortiser and gave it away. I have used a bench model in the past and the SS version was just too inadequate without multitudes of tweaking. Changing the chisel bevel so it would cut without wandering, constant sharpening especially cutting red oak. This was 30 years ago so maybe they have changed suppliers.
Anyway...
Gave it to a friend who used it briefly, then he gave it away. (Or maybe just tossed it). He did have some success with the Delta system. I can't get ahold of him quickly, but believe it was the 935 (maybe 17-935?). Much better chisels that kept an edge longer. I do remember that he wasn't fond of the drill bits for either SS nor Delta.
I've found I prefer setting up a router with a jig. Non square mortise ends are not a problem. If they NEED to be square I just use a small chisel, but more often than not I can get away with rounded ends. As of late, I've gone to mortising both pieces and using faux Festool Domino tenons.
Not sure if that was of any help.
Be well,
Ben
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
One other detail about the Shopsmith Mortiser that I didn't see mentioned: You need to support the table with something like a 2x4 between the table and the floor to help prevent deflection of the table when you mortise in the drill press mode.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
Yep, SS has it problems. I have learned to drill or rout out the tenon, using SS in vertical mode, close to what I want and then use the SS mortice chisel to square/clean everything up. Sometimes, if I am in the mood, I do it with hand mortice chisels and don't even use my SS set.
I have never been able to justify the expense of a stand alone mortice machine as I simple do not cut enough of them. However, if I could find, as a reasonable price a Barnes foot-operated mortice machine (an antique) I would buy it. It comes with lion claw feet too.
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
I have not recently used the SS mortiser, but do remember the problems I encountered. Being ignorant of the need to sharpen the chisel, I struggled with using it on white pine(interior door)! The table flex problem is there regardless of being horizontal or vertical.
What amazes me it the $$ these things get on E-bay! That and molder cutters. Two of the least liked accessories.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
anmius wrote:One other detail about the Shopsmith Mortiser that I didn't see mentioned: You need to support the table with something like a 2x4 between the table and the floor to help prevent deflection of the table when you mortise in the drill press mode.
Did you know that SS has an adjustable support leg? It would be much easier than trying to cut a 2 x 4 to the length needed for any support.
Brian
Mark V-500 Purchased New In 1980, SS Bandsaw (free), SS Jointer, SS 6x48 Belt Sander (free), SS Storage Station (free), Powermatic 64A Table Saw, Powermatic 1140F Drill Press, Delta 46-460 Midi-Lathe, Delta Scrollsaw, Bosch 12" Dual Compound Miter Saw, MLCS Router Table w/Bosch Router, Penn State dust collector.
JPG wrote: What amazes me it the $$ these things get on E-bay! That and molder cutters. Two of the least liked accessories.
Because they are not liked and not used, they will be in better shape bringing higher prices on places like eBay. That's my theory, although this also holds for antique tools such as Stanley. Generally speaking, the more pristine the less they really worked well for those who made their living using them. The less well they worked, the less sold and more quickly eliminated from manufacture. Thus higher prices on the antique market.
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
S Brian wrote:Did you know that SS has an adjustable support leg? It would be much easier than trying to cut a 2 x 4 to the length needed for any support.
I did but I'm much too cheap to purchase it for very infrequent use. Just lower the table to the length of 2x4 that you have and set it up from there. If you only cut mortises every year or two, spending more doesn't make sense (cents?) to me.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
Festool Domino tenons.
