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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259261 by JPG » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:19 pm

The back(spine) of the blade constantly rides ON both upper and lower guide bearings.

The BACK of the blade(regardless of the width of the blade) tracks about 1/4" from the rim on the BACK of the wheels(both upper AND lower wheels).

The only "adjustment" for the position of the back of the blade on the upper wheel is the cant of the upper wheel. "Adjustment" is a loose term for 'forming' parts and should only be done IFF there is a tracking problem caused by incorrect cant. i.e. do not fix it if not broke!!! ;)

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259907 by RFGuy » Fri May 24, 2019 10:00 am

Alright, I know this is an old thread, but I just did this upgrade of the back bearing. I decided to split the bearing in two as suggested earlier in this thread so that the back bearing gives a groove for the back of the blade to ride in. In the pic below, the shim marked in red is recommended as 0.0625" thick. Some of the previous members that attempted this upgrade used this and had to grind down the mechanism that this screws into so that the bearing would shift to line up with the blade (when blade is under tension with the autotrak). I have to ask, why not use a thinner shim? I used a 0.015" thickness shim and it worked perfect here and aligned well with my blade. So, I did not have to do any grinding. I know there are different versions of the bandsaw, so mine is about a 1998 vintage unit (clearances may vary between revisions of the bandsaw). I have also done the Carter bandsaw guides on mine, I am not using the cool blocks, so no need to grind that either since I don't have them. With this thickness shim in that location, the bearing rotates freely, but I will have to see with time if this minimum clearance results in sawdust accumulation there that causes that bearing to not move. Just wanted to share in case this helps any future readers of this thread, but if anyone can see any pitfalls to what I have done feel free to voice them as well.
bandsawbearing2.jpg
bandsawbearing2.jpg (163.18 KiB) Viewed 2531 times

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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259910 by jsburger » Fri May 24, 2019 1:44 pm

RFGuy wrote:Alright, I know this is an old thread, but I just did this upgrade of the back bearing. I decided to split the bearing in two as suggested earlier in this thread so that the back bearing gives a groove for the back of the blade to ride in. In the pic below, the shim marked in red is recommended as 0.0625" thick. Some of the previous members that attempted this upgrade used this and had to grind down the mechanism that this screws into so that the bearing would shift to line up with the blade (when blade is under tension with the autotrak). I have to ask, why not use a thinner shim? I used a 0.015" thickness shim and it worked perfect here and aligned well with my blade. So, I did not have to do any grinding. I know there are different versions of the bandsaw, so mine is about a 1998 vintage unit (clearances may vary between revisions of the bandsaw). I have also done the Carter bandsaw guides on mine, I am not using the cool blocks, so no need to grind that either since I don't have them. With this thickness shim in that location, the bearing rotates freely, but I will have to see with time if this minimum clearance results in sawdust accumulation there that causes that bearing to not move. Just wanted to share in case this helps any future readers of this thread, but if anyone can see any pitfalls to what I have done feel free to voice them as well.
bandsawbearing2.jpg


What did you do exactly when you say you split the bearings? The bearings have a radius on the edge of the outer race. When the bearings are side by side there is a natural groove formed. The shims used make that groove line up with the blade.

I did my upgrade a long time ago. Probably back in 2008 when LDH first posted it. My Band Saw was bought new in 1994. There was no filing required and the bearings were/are assembled per LDH's specs.

FWIW, I bought the Carter roller guides back when they first came out. I was using cool blocks before that. No grinding for them either. :confused:

---

John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT

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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259911 by RFGuy » Fri May 24, 2019 2:11 pm

jsburger wrote:
What did you do exactly when you say you split the bearings? The bearings have a radius on the edge of the outer race. When the bearings are side by side there is a natural groove formed. The shims used make that groove line up with the blade.

I did my upgrade a long time ago. Probably back in 2008 when LDH first posted it. My Band Saw was bought new in 1994. There was no filing required and the bearings were/are assembled per LDH's specs.

FWIW, I bought the Carter roller guides back when they first came out. I was using cool blocks before that. No grinding for them either. :confused:

John,

Thanks. Yeah, I did the upgrade pretty much as LDH described and used the bearing radius as the "groove" to hold the back of the blade (like you describe). Earlier in this thread there was a discussion by someone regarding possibly putting an extra shim between the two bearings to make a more pronounced gap to hold the blade. I did not do that, but followed what LDH described. The only difference for me, is that that one shim of 0.0625" thickness is too thick. Claimdude had the same problem when he attempted this (see link below). LDH told claimdude that the 0.0625" was needed for clearance and that he might still need to remove some metal to have clearance with a 0.0625" shim. For me (with my bandsaw), 0.0625" was too much shim and pushed the bearings too far to the left of the bandsaw for lining up with the blade (under tension) and I found that 0.015" works for this shim better on my bandsaw. I would prefer not to have to grind away metal on my bandsaw if I can help it. Multiple times in this thread, there is discussion about grinding to fit these back bearings, both for clearance to align to the blade, but also for clearance when using the cool blocks guides. I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to point out that I didn't have to do any grinding, but I did have to slightly change the shim that LDH recommended to fit my bandsaw. Hopefully this will help anyone else who is new and comes to this thread wanting to upgrade their bandsaw. If the shims recommended by LDH don't work for your alignment, perhaps consider trying a different set of shims before grinding.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodworking-tool-review-f9/bandsaw-bearings-t1648-s80.html

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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259912 by jsburger » Fri May 24, 2019 2:21 pm

RFGuy wrote:
jsburger wrote:
What did you do exactly when you say you split the bearings? The bearings have a radius on the edge of the outer race. When the bearings are side by side there is a natural groove formed. The shims used make that groove line up with the blade.

I did my upgrade a long time ago. Probably back in 2008 when LDH first posted it. My Band Saw was bought new in 1994. There was no filing required and the bearings were/are assembled per LDH's specs.

FWIW, I bought the Carter roller guides back when they first came out. I was using cool blocks before that. No grinding for them either. :confused:

John,

Thanks. Yeah, I did the upgrade pretty much as LDH described and used the bearing radius as the "groove" to hold the back of the blade (like you describe). Earlier in this thread there was a discussion by someone regarding possibly putting an extra shim between the two bearings to make a more pronounced gap to hold the blade. I did not do that, but followed what LDH described. The only difference for me, is that that one shim of 0.0625" thickness is too thick. Claimdude had the same problem when he attempted this (see link below). LDH told claimdude that the 0.0625" was needed for clearance and that he might still need to remove some metal to have clearance with a 0.0625" shim. For me (with my bandsaw), 0.0625" was too much shim and pushed the bearings too far to the left of the bandsaw for lining up with the blade (under tension) and I found that 0.015" works for this shim better on my bandsaw. I would prefer not to have to grind away metal on my bandsaw if I can help it. Multiple times in this thread, there is discussion about grinding to fit these back bearings, both for clearance to align to the blade, but also for clearance when using the cool blocks guides. I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to point out that I didn't have to do any grinding, but I did have to slightly change the shim that LDH recommended to fit my bandsaw. Hopefully this will help anyone else who is new and comes to this thread wanting to upgrade their bandsaw. If the shims recommended by LDH don't work for your alignment, perhaps consider trying a different set of shims before grinding.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodworking-tool-review-f9/bandsaw-bearings-t1648-s80.html


OK, that seems to indicate there are slight differences in the applicable castings that hold the bearings.

---

John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT

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Re: Bandsaw Bearings

#259914 by RFGuy » Fri May 24, 2019 2:30 pm

jsburger wrote:OK, that seems to indicate there are slight differences in the applicable castings that hold the bearings.

John,

Yeah, I believe so. I'll run this setup for a bit and make sure there are no problems and report back. In short, I had the same problem with clearance that I think claimdude and some others reported earlier in this thread. I fixed it, in my case, by changing that one shim. Other than this, my changes are the same as LDH, yourself and others did on this thread. Also, I suspect the centerline for where this bearing needs to be could vary a bit depending on the casting variation, how tight your blade is, any slight offset in angle of setting the Carter bandsaw guides, etc. I thought about trying to run a level or straight edge down the blade to check that my alignment is perfect, but it would be hard to do with everything in the way. Perhaps I can rig up a laser or something to check it. Ideally the blade should be straight from the edge of the top wheel to the edge of the bottom wheel, i.e. the Carter guides and back bearings shouldn't deflect the blade from where it is tensioned on the wheels (ideal case).

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