Shopsmith Forums

This post, like soldering iron tips, rapidly deteriorated into something unrecognizable. These are the ones I crafted which are more durable than those currently available for purchase.

Thank you all. Or as they said when I lived in Texas, "all y'all".

I have a Weller 8000N soldering gun with copper tips and need replacements. The stuff available seems to be crap. I know some people use Romex copper wire. Your thoughts?

I just watched Scott's video on waxing and probably have a lot of wax buildup over the years which keeps the main table and motor from moving smoothly (they don't). How can I remove the wax without removing both? would arisol carburetor cleaner, MAF cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. work?

Question: What are the advantages/disadvantages of using a splitter ZCI vs. a riving knife?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzdF-bLXc8Q&t=0s

Thank you. I inserted a new flat one and have an oval as well.

Mine (aluminum) won't stay tightened. What set screw should it have? Mine is smooth on the end and looks as if someone filed it.

So I don't have to go back and read everything can you direct me to JPG's 6 rules. I'm going to pass this SS downstream with a lot of information but don't think I have those rules to add.

For rust that appears to be cosmetic (particularly if you don't want to remove the part) I have found Bartender's Friend to work well. Make a slurry with light oil and rub it on. It is also great for turning black way tubes bright silver. BF is mostly oxalic acid which is a great rust remover.

Update: I decided to take a caliper and check the ID for each of the sanding sleeves and the drums. The variance from .54mm to .81mm for each of the drums. They had been compressed for so long that they needed a lot removed. Chucked them on the SS and used a sand pad to take them down until the slee...