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Re: V-belt replacement

#258236 by JPG » Wed Mar 20, 2019 7:33 pm

jsburger wrote:
JPG wrote:
jsburger wrote:
It is interesting. The Magna 10E and maybe very early 10ER's had no hole in the head stock behind the ID plate. Most (?) 10ER's do. Then Magna produced the MK 5 with the "A" head stock and no hole. I wonder what the thinking was there.


I attribute it to lack of forethought. Since there was little to no reason for access in the 10(other than replacing the power switch and the motor was easily removed) no thought was given to access for lubrication etc.. I do not think user lubrication was either since they did not have an oil hole in the movable sheave hubs either.

I am curious what the first Greenie manual had to say about lubricating the movable sheaves.


I agree, but that begs the question why did they put the hole in the model 10 in the first place?


To make switch replacement easier?(or original factory assembly) To make it lighter :rolleyes: . I know not why.

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258241 by roneg » Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:36 pm

JPG wrote:Yes an "A" headstock can be a challenge.

I would attach the ground wire to the motor under one of the tie bolt nuts.

As for switch/quill clearance, switches with terminals extending out the 'back' were not intended way back then.


I would absolutely use quick disconnects between the switch and the power cord as well as between the switch and the motor. The ground wire is an exception to that. Less necessary with later headstocks.

The historically correct power cord strain relief is quite small. The cord had a small molded grommet retainer molded onto the cord.

History was not my concern. :o I ordered a shopsmith cord off fleebay. It had the quick disconnect ends. However the new switch I ordered had the original screw on type connections. The motor still had these type. I clipped the new cables wires just past these connectors, and installed the open end type to accommodate the new switch. Thus having to drill the cable hole in the motor pan. What is a "tie bolt nut"?

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"The older I get..The better I was"

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258242 by jsburger » Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:42 pm

JPG wrote:
jsburger wrote:
JPG wrote:
I attribute it to lack of forethought. Since there was little to no reason for access in the 10(other than replacing the power switch and the motor was easily removed) no thought was given to access for lubrication etc.. I do not think user lubrication was either since they did not have an oil hole in the movable sheave hubs either.

I am curious what the first Greenie manual had to say about lubricating the movable sheaves.


I agree, but that begs the question why did they put the hole in the model 10 in the first place?


To make switch replacement easier?(or original factory assembly) To make it lighter :rolleyes: . I know not why.


Edit :eek:

I can certainly agree with factory assembly. But since the Model 10 was not sold from the factory with out a motor was the switch installed at the factory? Make it lighter, I don't think so. I don't think anything back then was made with weight in consideration. Well except airplanes. Certainly not home wood working tools.

We will never know.
Last edited by jsburger on Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258243 by JPG » Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:58 pm

roneg wrote: . . . What is a "tie bolt nut"?


The motor has long tie bolts that secure the end bells to the round motor frame. Those bolts run from the one end bell, through the motor, and through the end bell on the far end. A nut there secures the end bells. On the older SS both end bells also are the mounting feet.

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258244 by roneg » Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:14 pm

Thanks JPG. That indeed would be a stellar location.

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"The older I get..The better I was"

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258246 by JPG » Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:22 pm

BTW

I do NOT recommend open ended spade type terminals. Ring terminals will NOT slip off even if the retaining screw is loose. Spade type terminals will slip off if the screw becomes loose.

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258247 by roneg » Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:40 pm

Great point JPG. worth noting.

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"The older I get..The better I was"

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258282 by roneg » Fri Mar 22, 2019 1:10 pm

dusty wrote:If you have the correct strain relief it will be very difficult to maneuver and especially so unless you have the appropriate tool for that strain relief. A pair of pliers or long nose is not the correct tool.


What is the "proper" tool?

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"The older I get..The better I was"

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Re: V-belt replacement

#258311 by JPG » Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:51 pm

Heyco makes a tool specifically for inserting and removing the plastic strain relief made by them. It grips the larger part and squeezes the smaller part that grips the cord.

In a 'pinch' :rolleyes: pliers will get it done, but will likely scar the soft plastic parts.

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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